MIŠJA PEČ

Mišja peč is the most beautiful crag with the highest quality in all of Slovenia, as well as one of the best in the world – surely it would stand out even in Spain or southern France. The concentration and quality of (especially harder) routes has been luring climbers from all over the world to this area for decades – and in some warm up routes it is quite obvious. For a short time there are enough routes even for beginners, but they should quickly raise their level, as Mišja is the best from 7a routes and up.

APPROACH Get your ass to motorway, direction Koper, and leave it on exit Črni Kal (or Kastelec if you plan to go to Viki for some coffee). After driving straight, turn left under viaduct – direction Osp. Drive down the hill, through Gabrovica. When you see the Osp signpost and the first house on your left, sharply turn right and a dirt road will bring you to a parking under the crag. If there is no more space, there is an emergency parking beside the main road. Do not park in driveways or on the side of the road. Don‘t walk on pastures and fields on the side of the road. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

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Mišja peč

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Mišja peč 45.567128, 13.862729 Mišja peč parking

The best and most stable conditions are in spring and autumn, with nice winter days, which are quite common here. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially to the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding.

In the winter, the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). Otherwise, the sun moves from left to right during the day, so
you can time your arrival according to that. The Freezer and the right part are in the shade the longest time.

Mišja withstands the worst conditions – even the rain and wind can‘t touch it. After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that. On the other hand, most routes are climbable even if it‘s raining. 

The routes in Mišja come in all types: long, short, endurance or boulder based. Almost all are at least a little (to quite a lot) overhanging and usually you will need a lot of endurance or power endurance. There‘s no shortage of tufas or strenuous technical cruxes, nor innovative nohandrests in the middle of an overhang.

The rock is solid and hardly ever crumbles – but it is quite polished in some places. Most of the routes are exemplary equipped and maintained, with anchors containing a carabiner. In harder routes there are many pre-placed quickdraws, many of which are in very bad shape. Bring an 80 m rope, while you will rarely need more than 14 quickdraws. Of course there are many routes for those with shorter rope.

There is a lot of space under the wall, although at times of the largest crowds it
still resembles a Chinese bus station. The hardest part for kids is the approach. Once they are under the wall, the best place to park them is Central part.

BEGINNERS Even though this is not a crag for beginners, there are some nice, easy routes on the sides, but they get crowded fast. 3/5

ADVANCED Advanced climbers can climb all over Mišja and get plenty of valuable experience in a big variety of routes. 5/5

BEST Primarily Mišja peč is a crag for the best, with a big selection of hardest climbs of all styles and lenghts. 5/5

The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits, take trash with you and try to satisfy your basic needs at home, in the camp or at Viki burger. It is strictly forbidden to camp ilegally or to use shortcuts that are not marked on the map.

Karst edge is home to many species of birds, from raven, swift, peregrine falcon, rock trush and eagle owl. Most birds aren’t bothered by climbers, but when they are at home, in their nest, they like their peace, especially
when they are incubating eggs or taking care of their young. It is a duty of all climbers to be mindful of that and that they close the route for this short period. A special benefit of climbing in nature is, that we can enjoy its diversity and colorfulness. Whoever is bothered by nests and sensitive species while climbing, can find a perfect alternative on artificial walls, where this obstructions don’t exist. Also beer and parking are near.

 

LEFT SIDE

Slinavka 5a 14 m *

Technical slab with a bouldery middle part.

Parkljevka 5b 14 m  

Same as Slinavka but with hard beginning.

Brbončica 6a+ 14 m *

Quite bouldery start, then easier upper part.

Harry Potter 6a+ 16 m **

Similar to Brbončica but perhaps more technically interesting.

Bradavičarka 6b 17 m  

Delicate and technical middle part. Not too easy.

Mojčina 5a 17 m *

Crimpy start into easy finish. Maybe hard for the grade.

Ksenjina 5a 17 m *

Very similar to Mojčina.

Naritko Mitko 5b 17 m **

Tricky start and some powerful reachy moves in the roof.

Lukova 6c 18 m *

Crux over the roof and finish on crimpers.

Jožetova 6a+ 20 m ***

Nice classic juggy route for good balance and footwork.

Dragotova 6b 20 m *

Vertical route with a couple of technical and crimpy moves.

Sorinina 6c 20 m *

Same as Dragotova but with smaller features.

Pepel 6b+ 15 m  

Fingery and a bit clumsy route with reachy finish.

Varianta pepela 6b 15 m  

More straight start with powerful moves, but less delicate.

Jumbo 7a 18 m **

Some reachy moves on good holds with technical edges to finish.

Meteorit 7c 17 m  

Bouldery and tehnical, rarely repeated.

Poontang 7b+ 16 m  

Crux on crimpers in the upper part.

Sternschnuppe 7b 16 m *

A couple of power moves in the middle of this shooting star.

Mičkena 6c+ 15 m **

Nice climbing with cruxy middle and surprise at finish. No grabbing the anchor!

Frenkova (EXT) 7a 24 m  

Actually the crux is to continue past the anchor of Mičkena.

Johanova 7c 23 m *

Nice edges in the middle and a crimpy crux near the top.

Nido 7b 17 m **

Great power endurance with good rests and power boulders.

Kinder garten direkt 7b 18 m **

Left variant of Kinder requires a bit more finger strength.

Kinder garten 7a+ 18 m ***

Endurance on good tufas. Wet after long period of rain.

Matamoros 7c 18 m ***

Endurance with boulders over roofs. Wet after rain.

Tekila 8a 18 m *

Crimpy, fingery start, then endurance to the top.

Durango 7b+ 18 m ***

Endurance on good holds, a no-hand-rest half way up.

Tortuga A 7b 12 m *

Easy for the grade, a bit polished. Go left at the overhang, then traverse right.

Tortuga B 7c 12 m  

Right variant with a hard, dynamic boulder.

Ninja želva (EXT) 8c 18 m  

Extension of Tortuga A, super hard boulder.

Corto 8a 19 m ***

Classic! Endurance with a short dynamic crux in the middle. Getting polished.

White power (COM) 8a+ 22 m *

Corto with a finish in Hobit. Local combo for some more endurance.

Black power (COM) 8a+ 23 m *

Same as White power but with finish in Talk is cheap!

Lazuret (COM) 8b 24 m *

Another extension of Corto, this time to Za staro kolo…

Mr. Big hand (COM) 8b+ 28 m **

The ultimate Corto extension, all the way to Sanjski par. Endurance testpiece!

Gospodar prstanov 7c+ 17 m *

Easier, although crimpier start with finish in Corto.

Manana 7c 14 m **

Two boulders with good rests in between, finish in Corto.

Hobit  7c 17 m **

Start in Manana, go right at the big hole and finish in separate anchor.

Talk is cheap! 8c 15 m *

Power endurance with a lengthy boulder soon after start.

Vicious circle 9a+ 18 m  

Adam Ondra’s insane succession of boulders. Hard for the grade!

Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+ 12 m  

Hard, technical roof on edges for strong climbers with perfect footwork.

Sanjski par extension 9a 15 m *

A series of boulders in a roof. Legendary Slovenian route. First part to the 6th hold is considered a hard 8c.

Peskovnik 7b+ 9 m  

Fingery boulder in the lower part. Somewhat easy to onsight.

Sistolitični vrt 7b+ 4 m  

A couple of moves over the roof. More like a boulder.

CENTRAL PART

Pičkin dim (P.D.) 6b+ 13 m *

Bouldery start with a nice technical finish.

Tazio 6c 13 m **

Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.

Kurčji rock 6c+ 13 m *

A bit more uncomfortable than Tazio.

Ribalton 7a+ 17 m *

Very crimpy start, then athletic endurance over two roofs.

Čao bejbe (Čao pičke) 8a 19 m

One dynamic boulder in the middle, then easier finish. One move wonder.

Iglu 8a 20 m **

Reachy start to technical power crux in the middle, then easy.

Flash dance 7c 19 m **

Bouldery beginning, then endurance with good rests.

Angie wall 7c 22 m **

Overhang with good holds, splits to the left after a good rest.

Rock ‘n’ roll 7c+ 22 m ***

Overhanging with good holds, after a good rest go right. A few long moves.

Galaktika 8a+ 23 m **

Long boulder on beginning, then a good rest and some endurance.

??? P 10 m

The start is still a hard project.

The very long engagement 8a+ 9 m

Start of Strta srca with the left finish.

Strta srca 8a+ 9 m *

A series of short boulders. Nice power endurance.

Twin peaks 7c+ 8 m

A couple of boulders and a couple of good holds. Soft.

Stinger 7c 25 m **

Power moves from the ledge in the middle, then vertical and technical.

No fly zone 8b 23 m

Very crimpy middle part. Rarely repeated.

Skodelica kave 7b 23 m

Technical climbing on a traverse under the small roof and easy finish.

Nina 7b 20 m ***

Same start as Danger zone, then some more endurance climbing.

Danger zone 7a 17 m ***

A couple of different cruxes with good rests in between.

Nikita 7b+ 19 m *

Powerful overhanging start, then perseverance to the top.

Minulet 7b+ 19 m **

Nice route with a little bit of everything.

Ponarejeni minulet (COM) 6c+ 19 m

Warm up combo that avoids both cruxes.

Ponarejena želva 7b 19 m **

Technical start with a reachy crimpy crux near the top.

Oro puro 7c 19 m **

Start on an easy boulder and finish on a delicate and technical vertical wall.

Teta Liza 7a 19 m

Quite polished vertical wall with crimpers.

Moving shadow (EXT) 7b+ 30 m *

Extension of Teta Liza with boulder on the beginning of upper part.

9a 6c 19 m **

Reachy crux on good holds and bad footholds. Getting very polished.

9a 2.del (EXT) 7b+ 30 m *

Extension of 9a with crux after the first anhor, followed by nice climbing.

Uncle Ben 7b+ 18 m

Short and spicy with some complex moves.

Ljubezen na prvi pogled 7a+ 18 m

Climb Eagles until a big hole, then cross to Uncle Ben. Continuous.

Ljubezen na prvi pogled 2.del (EXT) 7c+ 28 m

Extension of the previous route with a couple of reachy cruxes.

Eagles 8b 18 m

Just a couple of crimpy moves after the hole.

Caffe espresso 8a+ 28 m *

Quite hard boulder in vertical lower part, then endurance.

Dolga kava (COM) 7c 27 m **

Endurance piece that bypasses the crux of Caffe espresso.

Nočna kronika 7c+ 22 m *

A bit technical, then endurance with a boulder near the top.

Nočna kronika 2.del (EXT) 8b 30 m *

Extension with another hard boulder over the roof.

Urbanova 8a 30 m **

Continuous route with a couple of cruxes. Reachy moves in the middle.

Uživancija 8a 30 m **

Same start as Urbanova, followed by a series of rests and cruxes.

Delni mrk 8a+ 31 m **

Start in Uživancija, finish in Popolni mrk. Nice combo.

Veseli tobogan 8a+ 10 m

Short and bouldery. Grade is when climbing inside the tufas. When using holds outside, it’s Kiki riki, 7c+

Popolni mrk 8c 30 m **

Hard part on crimpers in the middle, then endurance.

Sreča vrtnice 7a+ 19 m ***

Nice endurance climb on jugs. Long moves are better.

Sreča vrtnice 2.del (EXT) 8b 32 m ***

Reachy part over the roof after a good rest.

Gorenjski šnops 7a 16 m *

Same start as Albanski konjak, then go left to some reachy moves.

Gorenjski šnops 2.del (EXT) 8b 32 m **

Difficulties after fisrt anchor, then some more in the roof.

Albanski konjak 7a 17 m **

Two cruxes, a couple of great rests and a pumped finish.

Albanski konjak 2.del (EXT) 8a 31 m ****

A crimpy crux, a couple of good rests and a strong finish.

Kranjska sivka 6c 18 m *

A bit technical warm up between Albanski konjak and Rodeo.

Rodeo 7a 18 m **

Mostly endurance on jugs, with one power move. Often wet.

Corrida (EXT) 8c 31 m **

Crimpy soon after first anchor, then endurance to the top.

Histerija 8c+ 32 m ***

Quite continuous on small edges, gets harder as you reach the top.

Ptičja perspektiva 7b 19 m ***

Mostly endurance climbing with a couple of power moves. Classic.

Ptičja perspektiva 2.del (EXT) 8a+ 32 m **

Athletic climbing in the middle, one good rest and a strong finish.

Ptičja vizija (COM) 7c+ 32 m **

A long combo for endurance with some boulders and many good rests.

Krvave dimlje 7b+ 19 m

A couple of moves on the beginning of the overhang.

??? (EXT) P 32 m

Super hard extension of Krvave dimlje.

Pikova dama 8b 32 m ***

Continuous climb, with some technical difficulties at beginning and crimpy finish.

Vizija 8c 30 m ***

Very crimpy crux in the lower part, then easier to the top.

Karizma 8b+ 35 m ***

A crimpy crux in the lower part, then some more endurance.

Mišek Jakob P 35 m

Hard extension of Triad.

Triad 8a 23 m *

Continuous route with a super hard boulder in the middle.