Mišja peč

Mišja peč is the most beautiful crag with the highest quality in all of Slovenia, as well as one of the best in the world – surely it would stand out even in Spain or southern France. The concentration and quality of (especially harder) routes has been luring climbers from all over the world to this area for decades – and in some warm up routes it is quite obvious. For a short time there are enough routes even for beginners, but they should quickly raise their level, as Mišja is the best from 7a routes and up.

APPROACH

Get your ass to motorway, direction Koper, and leave it on exit Črni Kal (or Kastelec if you plan to go to Viki for some coffee). After driving straight, turn left under viaduct – direction Osp. Drive down the hill, through Gabrovica. When you see the Osp signpost and the first house on your left, sharply turn right and a dirt road will bring you to a parking under the crag. If there is no more space, there is an emergency parking beside the main road. Do not park in driveways or on the side of the road. Don‘t walk on pastures and fields on the side of the road. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

WAY TO THE CRAG Break a little sweat on a nice uphill path. Step carefully when the path is wet.

Mišja peč

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Mišja peč 45.567128, 13.862729 Mišja peč parking

ACOMMODATION & FOOD

In Osp you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. In nearby Črni Kal you can find ROBIDA hostel next to a restaurant. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI

OCIZLA HOSTEL

CLIMBING INFO

BEST SEASON The best and most stable conditions are in spring and autumn, with nice winter days, which are quite common here. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially to the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding.

SUN & SHADE In the winter, the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). Otherwise, the sun moves from left to right during the day, so you can time your arrival according to that. The Freezer and the right part are in the shade the longest time.

RAIN Mišja withstands the worst conditions – even the rain and wind can‘t touch it. After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that. On the other hand, most routes are climbable even if it‘s raining.

STYLE & ROUTES The routes in Mišja come in all types: long, short, endurance or boulder based. Almost all are at least a little (to quite a lot) overhanging and usually you will need a lot of endurance or power endurance. There‘s no shortage of tufas or strenuous technical cruxes, nor innovative no-hand-rests in the middle of an overhang.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid and hardly ever crumbles – but it is quite polished in some places. Most of the routes are exemplary equipped and maintained, with anchors containing a carabiner. In harder routes there are many pre-placed quickdraws, many of which are in very bad shape. Bring an 80 m rope, while you will rarely need more than 14 quickdraws. Of course there are many routes for those with shorter rope.

KIDS & COMFORT There is a lot of space under the wall, although at times of the largest crowds it still resembles a Chinese bus station. The hardest part for kids is the approach. Once they are under the wall, the best place to park them is Central part.

BEGINNERS Even though this is not a crag for beginners, there are some nice, easy routes on the sides, but they get crowded fast. 3/5

ADVANCED Advanced climbers can climb all over Mišja and get plenty of valuable experience in a big variety of routes. 5/5

THE BEST Primarily Mišja peč is a crag for the best, with a big selection of hardest climbs of all styles and lenghts. 5/5

NOTES

NOTES The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits, take trash with you and try to satisfy your basic needs at home, in the camp or at Viki burger. It is strictly forbidden to camp ilegally or to use shortcuts that are not marked on the map.

SPECIAL WARNING! Karst edge is home to many species of birds, from raven, swift, peregrine falcon, rock trush and eagle owl. Most birds aren’t bothered by climbers, but when they are at home, in their nest, they like their peace, especially when they are incubating eggs or taking care of their young. It is a duty of all climbers to be mindful of that and that they close the route for this short period. A special benefit of climbing in nature is, that we can enjoy its diversity and colorfulness. Whoever is bothered by nests and sensitive species while climbing, can find a perfect alternative on artificial walls, where this obstructions don’t exist. Also beer and parking are near.

ROUTES LEFT SIDE

LEFT SIDE
Slinavka	5a	14 m	*
Technical slab with a bouldery middle part.
Parkljevka	5b	14 m
Same as Slinavka but with hard beginning.
Brbončica	6a+	14 m	*
Quite bouldery start, then easier upper part.
Harry Potter	6a+	16 m	**
Similar to Brbončica but perhaps more technically interesting.
Bradavičarka	6b	17 m
Delicate and technical middle part. Not too easy.
Mojčina	5a	17 m	*
Crimpy start into easy finish. Maybe hard for the grade.
Ksenjina	5a	17 m	*
Very similar to Mojčina.
Naritko Mitko	5b	17 m	**
Tricky start and some powerful reachy moves in the roof.
Lukova	6c	18 m	*
Crux over the roof and finish on crimpers.
Jožetova	6a+	20 m	***
Nice classic juggy route for good balance and footwork.
Dragotova	6b	20 m	*
Vertical route with a couple of technical and crimpy moves.
Sorinina	6c	20 m	*
Same as Dragotova but with smaller features.
Pepel	6b+	15 m
Fingery and a bit clumsy route with reachy finish.
Varianta pepela	6b	15 m
More straight start with powerful moves, but less delicate.
Jumbo	7a	18 m	**
Some reachy moves on good holds with technical edges to finish.
Meteorit	7c	17 m
Bouldery and tehnical, rarely repeated.
Poontang	7b+	16 m
Crux on crimpers in the upper part.
Sternschnuppe	7b	16 m	*
A couple of power moves in the middle of this shooting star.
Mičkena	6c+	15 m	**
Nice climbing with cruxy middle and surprise at finish. No grabbing the anchor!
Frenkova Ext	7a	24 m
Actually the crux is to continue past the anchor of Mičkena.
Johanova	7c	23 m	*
Nice edges in the middle and a crimpy crux near the top.
Nido	7b	17 m	**
Great power endurance with good rests and power boulders.
Kinder direkt	7b	18 m	**
Left variant of Kinder requires a bit more finger strength.
Kindergarten	7a+	18 m	***
Endurance on good tufas. Wet after long period of rain.
Matamoros	7c	18 m	***
Endurance with boulders over roofs. Wet after rain.
Tekila	8a	18 m	*
Crimpy, fingery start, then endurance to the top.
Durango	7b+	18 m	***
Endurance on good holds, a no-hand-rest half way up.
Tortuga A	7b	12 m	*
Easy for the grade, a bit polished. Go left at the overhang, then traverse right.
Tortuga B	7c	12 m
Right variant with a hard, dynamic boulder.
Ninja želva Ext	8c	18 m
Extension of Tortuga A, super hard boulder.
Corto	8a	19 m	***
Classic! Endurance with a short dynamic crux in the middle. Getting polished.
White power com	8a+	22 m	*
Corto with a finish in Hobit. Local combo for some more endurance.
Black power com	8a+	23 m	*
Same as White power but with finish in Talk is cheap!
Lazuret com	8b	24 m	*
Another extension of Corto, this time to Za staro kolo…
Mr. Bighand com	8b+	28 m	**
The ultimate Corto extension, all the way to Sanjski par. Endurance testpiece!
Gospodar prstanov	7c+	17 m	*
Easier, although crimpier start with finish in Corto.
Mañana	7c	14 m	**
Two boulders with good rests in between, finish in Corto.
Hobit	7c	17 m	**
Start in Manana, go right at the big hole and finish in separate anchor.
Talk is cheap!	8c	15 m	*
Power endurance with a lengthy boulder soon after start.
Vicious Circle	9a+	18 m
Adam Ondra’s insane succession of boulders. Hard for the grade!
Za staro kolo in majhnega psa	8c+	12 m
Hard, technical roof on edges for strong climbers with perfect footwork.
Sanjski par (extension)	9a	15 m	*
A series of boulders in a roof. Legendary Slovenian route. First part to the 6th hold is considered a hard 8c.
Peskovnik	7b+	9 m
Fingery boulder in the lower part. Somewhat easy to onsight.
Sistolitični vrt	7b+	4 m
A couple of moves over the roof. More like a boulder.

ROUTES CENTRAL PART LEFT

B- CENTER LEFT
Pičkin dim (P. D.)	6b+	13 m	*
Bouldery start with a nice technical finish.
Tazio	6c	13 m	**
Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.
Kurčji rock	6c+	13 m	*
Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.
Ribalton	7a+	17 m	*
Very crimpy start, then athletic endurance over two roofs.
Čao bejbe (Čao pičke)	8a	19 m
One dynamic boulder in the middle, then easier finish. One move wonder.
Iglu	8a	20 m	**
Reachy start to technical power crux in the middle, then easy.
Flash dance	7c	19 m	*
Bouldery beginning, then endurance with good rests.
Angie wall	7c	22 m	**
Overhang with good holds, splits to the left after a good rest.
Rock ‘n’ roll	7c+	22 m	***
Overhanging with good holds, after a good rest go right. A few long moves.
Galaktika	8a+	23 m	**
Long boulder on beginning, then a good rest and some endurance.
???	P	10 m
The start is still a hard project.
The Very Long Engagement	8a+	9 m
Start of Strta srca with the left finish.
Strta srca	8a+	9 m	*
A series of short boulders. Nice power endurance.
Twin Peaks	7c+	8 m
A couple of boulders and a couple of good holds. Soft.
Stinger	7c	25 m	**
Power moves from the ledge in the middle, then vertical and technical.
No fly zone	8b	23 m
Very crimpy middle part. Rarely repeated.
Skodelica kave	7b	23 m
Technical climbing on a traverse under the small roof and easy finish.
Nina	7b	20 m	***
Same start as Danger zone, then some more endurance climbing.
Danger zone	7a	17 m	***
A couple of different cruxes with good rests in between.
Nikita	7b+	19 m	*
Powerful overhanging start, then perseverance to the top.
Minulet	7b+	19 m	**
Nice route with a little bit of everything.
Ponarejeni minulet com	6c+	19 m
Warm up combo that avoids both cruxes.
Ponarejena želva	7b	19 m	**
Technical start with a reachy crimpy crux near the top.
Oro puro	7c	19 m	**
Start on an easy boulder and finish on a delicate and technical vertical wall.
Teta Liza	7a	19 m
Quite polished vertical wall with crimpers.
Moving shadow Ext	7b+	30 m	*
Extension of Teta Liza with boulder on the beginning of upper part.
9a	6c	19 m	**
Reachy crux on good holds and bad footholds. Getting very polished.
9a (2. del) Ext	7c	30 m	*
Extension of 9a with crux after the first anhor, followed by nice climbing.
Uncle Ben	7b+	18 m
Short and spicy with some complex moves.
Ljubezen na prvi pogled	7a+	18 m
Climb Eagles until a big hole, then cross to Uncle Ben. Continuous.
Ljubezen na prvi pogled (2. del) Ext	7c+	28 m
Extension of the previous route with a couple of reachy cruxes.
Eagles	8b	18 m
Just a couple of crimpy moves after the hole.
Caffè espresso	8a+	28 m	*
Quite hard boulder in vertical lower part, then endurance.
Dolga kava	7c	27 m	**
Endurance piece that bypasses the crux of Caffe espresso.
Nočna kronika	7c+	22 m	*
A bit technical, then endurance with a boulder near the top.
Nočna kronika (2. del) Ext	8b	30 m	*
Extension with another hard boulder over the roof.
Urbanova	8a	30 m	**
Continuous route with a couple of cruxes. Reachy moves in the middle.
Uživancija	8a	30 m	**
Same start as Urbanova, followed by a series of rests and cruxes.
Delni mrk	8a+	31 m	**
Start in Uživancija, finish in Popolni mrk. Nice combo.
Veseli tobogan	8a+	10 m
Short and bouldery. Grade is when climbing inside the tufas. When using holds outside, it’s Kiki riki, 7c+.
Popolni mrk	8c	30 m	**
Hard part on crimpers in the middle, then endurance.
Sreča vrtnice	7a+	19 m	***
Nice endurance climb on jugs. Long moves are better.
Sreča vrtnice (2.del) Ext	8b	32 m	***
Reachy part over the roof after a good rest.
Gorenjski šnops	7a	16 m	*
Same start as Albanski konjak, then go left to some reachy moves.
Gorenjski šnops (2.del)	8b	32 m	**
Difficulties after first anchor, then some more in the roof.
Albanski konjak	7a	17 m	**
Two cruxes, a couple of great rests and a pumped finish.
Albanski konjak (2.del) Ext	8a	31 m	***
A crimpy crux, a couple of good rests and a strong finish.
Kranjska sivka	6c	18 m	*
A bit technical warm up between Albanski konjak and Rodeo.
Rodeo	7a	18 m	**
Mostly endurance on jugs, with one power move. Often wet.
Corrida Ext	8c	31 m	**
Crimpy soon after first anchor, then endurance to the top.
Histerija	8c+	32 m	***
Quite continuous on small edges, gets harder as you reach the top.
Ptičja perspektiva	7b	19 m	***
Mostly endurance climbing with a couple of power moves. Classic.
Ptičja perspektiva (2.del) Ext	8a+	32 m	**
Athletic climbing in the middle, one good rest and a strong finish.
Ptičja vizija	7c+	32 m	**
A long combo for endurance with some boulders and many good rests.
Krvave dimlje	7b+	19 m	*
A couple of moves on the beginning of the overhang.
??? Ext	P	32 m
Super hard extension of Krvave dimlje.
Pikova dama	8b	32 m	***
Continuous climb, with some technical difficulties at beginning and crimpy finish.
Vizija	8c	30 m	***
Very crimpy crux in the lower part, then easier to the top.
Karizma	8b+	35 m	***
A crimpy crux in the lower part, then some more endurance.
Mišek Jakob	P	? m
Hard extension of Triad.
Triad	8a	23 m	*
Continuous route with a super hard boulder in the middle.

ROUTES CENTRAL PART RIGHT

C – CENTER RIGHT
Človek ne jezi se	8c	18 m	*
Intensive power route on small holds and no rests.
Človek ne jezi se (2.del) Ext	8c+	41 m	*
Some more endurance with crimpy last couple of meters.
Ekstaza	8c+	40 m	**
Človek ne jezi se, with another boulder in the middle and the final roof.
Xaxid hostel	9a	40 m	*
An 8B boulder in the lower part, that joins with Ekstaza to the top. Hard.
J.S.F.K.	7c+	16 m	*
Nice endurance with reachy boulder in the middle.
J.S.F.K. (2.del) Ext	8b	41 m	*
Finish to the far left with the crux near the end.
Sanje za dušo Ext	8b+	40 m	**
Start in J.S.F.K. and finish straight up like Čloek ne jezi se 2.del.
???	P	40 m
Hard, as of yet still unclimbed project that goes far right.
Katzo	P	17 m
Another nasty project with some sketchy bolts.
Figa	7b	16 m	***
Tufa land with inventive no hand rests and two nice cruxes.
Figaro Ext	8a+	40 m	**
Nice continuous climb after the fig tree, until the crux in the roof.
Blood sugar sex magik	8a+	18 m
Athletic climbing leading up to a hard boulder in the last meters.
Bula com	7b+	19 m	**
Warm up endurance combo fort he locals. Nice power endurance.
Giljotina	8a	19 m	*
Pumpy start leads to an awkward boulder in the middle.
Giljotina (2.del) Ext	8a+	28 m	**
Vertical wall that soon gets a bit nasty.
Bastilla Ext	8b+	40 m	**
Add a few boulders over the roofs to the whole lower part.
Highlander	8a+	19 m	*
Starts with a very powerful boulder and then gets only a little easier.
Samsara	8a	19 m	***
Two nice boulders with good rests in between. Very popular and polished.
Izgubljeni sin Ext	8a+	40 m	***
Attractive continuation, with a no hand rest in the roof and a few additional cruxes.
Mrtvaški ples	8b	19 m	**
Bouldery route with artificial pockets. Polished.
Marioneta	8b+	19 m	*
Series of boulders with long moves on artificial holds. For strong climbers.
Lahko noč, Irena	8b	23 m	**
A crux in the overhang and later a technical, crimpy one.
Mozaik	8a	23 m	**
Another all-in-one route. A bit reachy moves at times.
???	P	42 m
Hard extension project over the roof.
Millenium Ext	8b+	42 m	***
Continuous troubles over the roof after climbing Mozaik.
Hugo	7c+	22 m	***
A lengthy fingery crux in the middle, then a good rest.
Popaj Ext	8a+	30 m	**
Hard power boulder after the first anchor, with endurance to finish.
Lucky Luke Ext	8b	32 m	*
Crimpy boulder on the right, after the first anchor, then endurance.
Chiquita	8a	23 m	***
Pumpy and athletic route gets harder near the finish.
Chiquita (2.del) Ext	8b+	32 m	***
First a bit easier, then pumpy finish on the edges.
Preobrazba	7c+	22 m	**
Athletic start, technical edges in the middle and bouldery finish.
Preobražena klobasa com	7c	23 m	**
Local variation that uses nice lower part of Klobasa without its finish.
Klobasa	8b	22 m
A couple of moves on the top. Rarely repeated.
Kaj ti je deklica?	8b+	32 m	***
Long, continuous, with cruxes at the beginning, in the middle and at the end.
Oktoberfest	8a	29 m	**
Technical, but can be compensated with sheer power.
Pasja radost	7b+	16 m
A couple of cruxy, reachy parts. Finishes in Krvavica.
Krvavica	7a	16 m	*
Polished and sometimes awkward to move. You need some power.
Krvavica (2.del) Ext	7a+	29 m	**
Nice and continuous to the top. Attractive climbing fort his grade.
Šunka Ext	7c+	28 m	*
An alternative finish of Krvavica or Pasja radost.
Godla	7b	25 m	*
Physical in the beginning, followed by one long move.
Godla (2.del) Ext	7c+	35 m	*
Essentially just a short, fingery boulder.
Kamnolom	6a	15 m	*
Short warm up for either good footwork or strong arms.
Tretje tisočletje	6b	16 m	*
Athletic crack, a bit bouldery.
Tretje tisočletje (2.del) Ext	8a	30 m	*
Technical until one-finger pocket and crimpy over the roof.
Pečenica	6b+	16 m	*
Bouldery start and pumpy finish. Extremely polished.
Pečenica (2.del) Ext	6b+	26 m	*
A bit reachy and technical. Not climbed as much as the lower part.
Pleskavica	7a	16 m	*
Technical boulder on small holds with finish in Pečenica.
Lisičji raz	7b	25 m
Crimpy and technical route starts in Hugolina.
???	P	25 m
A strange unclimbed variation, if it’s still bolted.
Hugolina	7b+	24 m	**
Nice juggy start with short power boulder half way up.
Pinot	7c	23 m	**
Nice technical crimpy climbing, awkward around the roof.
Deževna sodba	7c	23 m
Warm up half way through Hrenovka, then turn left into an edgy crux.
Hrenovka	6b+	22 m	***
A couple of different-style cruxes with good rests in between. Classic.
Euro	7a+	6 m
Reachy move over the roof.
Čevapčič	6c	22 m	*
Similar to Hrenovka, but a bit harder and not as nice.
Sneguljčica	5c	9 m
A few moves, hardly even to warm up. Route for belay slaves.
7 palčkov	6c	10 m
A short, polished boulder.
Bedarija High	7a+	13 m
Rarely climbed technical route with one crux.
Timo High	6c	12 m	*
Rarely climbed, a bit awkward route.

ROUTES RIGHT SIDE

D – RIGHT SIDE
Truplojedka	8a+	9 m
A nasty, hard-to-figure-out boulder.
Matrix	8b	14 m	*
Lenghty boulder from start to finish.
Missing drink	8b+	14 m	**
Classic power endurance. Psyhsical and dynamic. Turn left after 2nd in Link.
Missing link	8b+	14 m	**
Classic power endurance route. Very psyhsical and dynamic. There is an optional route to climb Missing Link without artificial holds after 4th quickdraw. It is called Natural link, 8c.
Konec MIR-a	8c	20 m	*
Start in Marjetica, finish in M. drink, with a hard undercling crux in between. Hard.
Marjetica	8b+	16 m	*
Power endurance with spicy moves before and after the hole.
Pingvin A	8a+	16 m
Endurance on pockets with a hard crux after the route splits to the left.
Pingvin B	7c+	16 m	*
Same as Pingvin A, with an easier escape to the right, that later rejoins.
Sonce v očeh	8a+	16 m	**
Nice power endurance with two cruxy, technical parts.
Martin Krpan com	9a	28 m	**
Start in Strelovod, then go to Konec Mira for this power endurance monster.
Strelovod	8c	26 m	**
Cruxy traverse, that finishes in Marjetica just as it gets hard.
Runo	7b+	16 m	***
Fingery lower part until a good rest, then some more endurance. Polished.
Reksi	7b	16 m	**
Same fingery start as Runo, then turns to the right into a more vertical finish.
Lesi	7b	16 m	**
Same as Reksi for most part, but you go to the anchor from the right side.
VR6	7c	16 m
Very crimpy, fingery boulder at the beginning. Finish in Reksi.
Zajček	8a+	18 m
Very bouldery start on small holds, then easier.
Platfus	7a+	18 m	*
Hard, crimpy boulder in the lower part and easy finish.
JSKŽ	7a+	19 m
Easier at the start with a crimpy boulder near the anchor.
Afrodita	6a+	15 m	**
Nice and easy with some trouble over small overhang.
Afrodizijak	6c+	14 m	*
Start in Švejk and escape into an awkward arete.
Švejk	7a	15 m
Technical corner, for precise footwork.
Krjavelj	6b	15 m	**
Nice and continuous slabby route.
Mišja luknja	5b	13 m	**
Easy and vertical, with good holds.
Prehod za pešce	5a	15 m	*
Corner climbing, can get a bit nasty.
Podgana	6a+	14 m	*
After cruxy technical start, cross Prehod za pešce into a crack.
Prijateljica noči	7a	13 m	**
Technical and crimpy, but quite continuous.
Sovražnica	7b+	13 m	*
Very technical and bouldery lower part.
Črna luknja	6c+	15 m
Some trouble in the lower overhang.
Sexy zajeda	6c+	15 m	**
Awkward corner, then nicer and easier.
Za star moped in hudga psa	7a+	17 m	*
The exact opposite from Za staro kolo… Technical cruxy start.
Dežela šalc	5b	15 m	***
Nice big holes. Reachy moves or high stepping.
Igra	7b	9 m
Technical route with boulder on negative holds.
Grom	6b	9 m
Cripy and technical.
Strela	5c	9 m
Cripy and technical.
Milky way	6b	9 m	*
Vertical wall with technical climbing on edges.
Bounty	6c+	9 m	**
Vertical wall with technical climbing on edges.
Rest day	7b+	9 m
Boulder with a few moves. Old route, but no classic.
Snickers	6c	9 m	*
Escape the Rest day crux into an easier corner.
Mars	6b+	14 m
Vertical wall with technical climbing on edges.
Milka	6a	13 m
Vertical wall with technical climbing on edges.
Gorenjka	6c	13 m
Vertical wall with some negative holds for a surprise.
Rafaello	6b	13 m	*
Vertical wall with technical climbing on edges.
Twix	5b	13 m	*
Nice and easy route.