OSP – BIG WALL

Big wall of Osp, which was the first to interest climbers – back then with aid gear, ladders and such – is today the least interesting for climbing, as multi-pitch climbing is getting less popular. Since it represents a fairly independent part of the crag, it is described separately. But surely it would be good for you to check out a route or two and get a little taste of climbing history.

Access to the Big Wall is the same as for Luknja. Many routes start there, while others are to the right. Even for the right-most routes use the same approach. There are three points to lower off the Big Wall: on top of routes Steber spominov, Medo and Italijanska smer. You can also walk down and the path will lead you back to Banje sector.

WAY TO THE CRAG The path is the same as for Luknja, nice but a bit demanding. Think and plan where you will go back.

 

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Osp - Luknja & Big Wall

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Osp - Luknja & Big Wall 45.572236, 13.862321

In Osp you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. In nearby Črni Kal you can find ROBIDA hostel next to a restaurant.  If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI 

OCIZLA HOSTEL 

BEST SEASON Best conditions are from autumn to spring – except when it‘s forbidden.

SUN & SHADE There is a bit more shade in the morning, otherwise the wall in the sun.

RAIN The wall is slightly (and sometimes more) overhanging and can sustain light rain.

STYLE & ROUTES Routes are in the medium range. Only a a few of them are for beginners and better climbers, but they are bolted nicely, so you can pull yourself over the hard parts. Take your time to climb these routes and most of all, enjoy a bit different experience.

GEAR & SAFETY Big Wall is more loose on the upper part, where you also need some courage and experience with climbing multi pitches. For the routes here you usually don‘t need extra gear (nuts, friends,…), but they can come in handy. There is plenty of gear, but it varies from 30-year old spits to new bolts. The anchors are mostly good. Bring your helmet!

KIDS & COMFORT Of course, regardless of the base, multipitches are not suitable for kids. Other than that, anchors vary from comfortable ledges to hanging ones. Routes are bolted nicely and you can mostly pull yourself over hard parts.

BEGINNERS As a second in a team you will pro­bably get (pull) youself even over the harder stuff, otherwise you can always try Medo – one of the most climbed beginner multipitches in Slovenia. Or maybe something on the right side. 1/5

ADVANCED Most routes are in the middle range – especially the main challenges of the wall: Goba, Burja and Tržaška. 4/5

THE BEST  Most hard routes have only one or two extremely hard pitches, like Bala Bala, Stara or Robert, but at least you will make one of very rare repeats. 1/5

SPECIAL WARNING! Moehringia Tommasinii is a delicate flower that grows only on the Karst edge. The presence of climbers doesn’t damage it, if they leave it alone. It grows in cracks and although the rock around it is usually crumbly, climbers often think, that another great route could go there. In wider area we already had cases, where a whole crag was closed, because climbers plucked whole bunches of this protected plant. Although the reaction of nature protectionists was excessive, it just illustrates, how impatient and ignorant climbers can be when seeking new lines.

BIG WALL

Steber spominov

6a, 7a+, 6c+, 6b, 6a   

85 m

*

Try just a little bit harder 

7b, 7a, 7b+, 7b+, 7a+, 6c 

140 m

*

Tržaška smer 

7b, 7b, 7a, 6b+, 6a   

95 m

***

Supernova 

 A variation of the Tržaška finish.

7b, 7b, 7a, 6b+, 7b, 6b, 6a 

140 m

*

Bala Bala 

(7c+),8b+, 7c, 6c, 7c, 7a, 6c 

150 m

**

Črna burja – Bora scura 

7b, 7c, 7b, 7c, 7a+, 6c 

140 m

***

Magična goba – Fungo magico 

6b, 7b, 6c+, 7b+, 7c, 6b 

140 m

***

Stara 

5a, 7a, 8b+, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+ 

130 m

*

Zimska simfonija

5a, 7a, 7b+, 7a, 6c, 6b+ 

130 m

 

Vražji Robert 

Mostly trad route, just a few bolts.

5a, 8b, 7c+, 7a, 6b+, 6b 

130 m

*

Prečenje 

3, 4c, 4a, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+ 

110 m

**

Velika zveza 

3, 4c, 4a, 6b+, 7a, 6b 

110 m

*

Internacionala 

Closed from 1.3. to 31.5. because of nesting of peregrine falcon.

3, 4c, 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b 

110 m

***

Netopir 

3, 6c, 6b+, 6b+, 6b 

110 m

***

Špargelj direkt  

3, 7a+, 7b+, 7b 

110 m

**

Svinjam diamante  

3, 6b, 7b, 6c+ 

110 m

**

Medo  

3, 5b, 5c, 5b 

120 m

*

BIG WALL RIGHT PART

Super muha  

5b, 6b+, 6a  

70 m

 

Goldfinger

5c, 6b, 5a, 6c, 6b+  

85 m

 

Fuga da alcatraz

6b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a  

80 m

***

N.N.

6c+, 6a, 6b, 6a  

80 m

 

Italijanska smer 

6b, 6a, 5c  

80 m

**

Angelo nero

6b+, 6b+, 6a, 7a+  

80 m

 

Trst je naš

6c, 6c  

70 m

 

Cosa nostra

7a, 6c, 6b  

70 m

 

Il signore degli elementi

7a, 6b, 7b  

70 m

 

Piccola troia

6b, 6b+, 6b  

70 m