VIPAVA
Vipava is actually a collection of crags, spread along the slopes of Nanos above the picturesque and alwaysinspring Vipava valley. It is a very diverse mixture, from exemplary maintained crags for complete beginners and advanced climbers, to unclear and not so well maintained sectors with shitty rock, and inbetween long (un)bolted multipitches, which often go to the very top of the plateau. Usually you will pick 13 sectors and spend a nice climbing day there – especially for beginners Vipava has huge potential and you will always find something new. The better you are, the more likely you will just drive a bit further to Vipavska Bela.
The motorway, which splits under Nanos at Razdrto towards Nova Gorica, will lead you to Vipava through a series of tunnels. Here follow the main road left towards center and soon after, turn right for Gradišče and then drive along the narrow road through the settlement towards kamp Tura. At your right you will see lots of playing fields and a bar, where you park your car. From parking go left uphill, towards nicely visible crags. For sectors BE stick to the left and right for the others. In each case you will reach a scree slope, where the paths wind up to the sectors. Under the slope there is a map of sectors and here the main walking path turns right. Follow it for sectors LR or go straight for sectors FK. For more info use the map in this guidebook or the very useful signposts, which mark all the paths along the way.
For sector A – Stari grad you have to use a bit different approach. It’s best to park in the center of Vipava at Main square and go on foot, first left and then to the right in a side alley, which leads uphill towards a group of houses on top. Theoretically you can get there by car too, but the streets are narrow, parking spaces few and it will only save you a minute or two. Behind the last house on the left you will find a path leading you right. Follow it and be mindful about a small path on the left, once you see the crag there. The wall may be closed occassionally due to birds nesting.
WAY TO THE CRAG The approach varies from short and nice to long and sometimes even a bit dangerous. And everything in between. For example, you’ll suffer much more to get to sector F than sector O.
There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.
BEST SEASON Spring and autumn are always great, if only the wall is not wet. Summer can be quickly too hot. In the winter wait for a nice sunny day (possibly without bora wind).
SUN & SHADE Most crags face SW and are in sunny exposition. In the summer, the wall is in shade in the morning and in the afternoon in sector A. You can also catch some climbing in right sectors and in the part of sector J, which faces north.
RAIN Rain will affect almost all routes (except for sector F), but the walls dry quickly, especially if bora wind is blowing. In the winter this can be a problem. Most shelter can be found in sectors on the right side, from L – R.
STYLE & ROUTES Routes are mostly vertical with occasional small roof and usually you will rely on technique and finger power – and many times also on your body height. Only the sector F has endurance pieces on a slight overhang. Of course, there are boulder cruxes now and then – sometimes even in the easier routes. The grades can be a bit local and even feel quite hard. The multipitches are another story.
GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid limestone in different forms and colors. The more a sector is beginner friendly (such as AE or MO), the better the rock is, although it can be a bit polished sometimes. In those sectors the routes have also been nicely rebolted along with new anchors. You will often have to retie at the top. But there are also routes, where you can see from the ground, that they can be crumbly and badly equipped. The gear depends on the chosen sector. You can climb with a couple of quickdraws and 40meter rope, but some other times you need many, many more. The multipitches are another story.
KIDS & COMFORT If we disregard the often long approaches (which are not too demanding), some sectors are very comfortable, with benches and large plateaus and are also kidsfriendly (B,C,D,M,R). But there are also sectors, which you approach with a wild via ferratta (H) or have a base unsuitable/unsafe for children (J,K,L). The multipitches are another story.
BEGINNERS Vipava is an ideal crag for beginners, as you can find a couple of routes almost everywhere, with whole sectors full of them: B, C, M, O and also J and K for the more mountaineeringtypes. Even for kids there are groups of short routes in sectors M, N and J (Teletubbies). Then there are multipitches in sectors E and G, which are perfect for the first experience with longer routes. 5/5
ADVANCED A bit harder routes are scattered all over Vipava. Larger groups are found in sectors A, D, M, N and R. And of course in sector F, which is in itself worth a visit and even has overhangs. 4/5
THE BEST There are no hard routes here. Try Fanatik 7c+ (sector M) or Hippy Dippy 7c+ (sector R) or just go to Vipavska Bela. 1/5
DRYTOOLING Below the path at the water reservoir there is also a nice, small drytool area Pod Škol with grades from D3 to D6+.
MULTIPITCHES Some of the multipitches are part of sport climbing sectors e.g. E, F, H and especially popular sector G – Steber. They are bolted, of course a bit further apart, but with some slings or nuts they are perfect for beginners. Then there are trad routes, which are not equipped, and are more or less easy. Climb them only with adequate knowledge and someone who knows what he’s doing. Along Vipava valley there are many such routes (especially around Ajdovščina), but in the guidebook we included informative topos only for the ones close to the crag. In summer, climbing is not recommended due to thick vegetation.
NOTES The scene in Vipava is among the most lively in Slovenia. In autumn there is a boulderthemed Vipavski Vjlb and in spring there is climbing weekend Tura. Ajdovščina and Vipava climbing clubs maintain many walking and climbing paths, like Gradiška Tura, which passes through the crag and has the famous panoramic bridge, as well as many others in vicinity. More information about those can be found at:
www.gradisce.slog.net, www.aoajdovscina.si and www.plezanje.net.
WARNING Vipava is one of the most exemplary crags in Slovenia if we consider the pressure from visitors, cooperation with municipality and nature protectors and general maintenance. Still, there can be occasional closures of some sectors due to birds nesting. You should seriously respect any limitations that are applied. We also omitted one harder sector on Nanos, because it is not maintained properly. Also, do not bolt any new routes without first consulting the local climbing club, which takes care for this area. The guidebook also has a short overview of longer trad multipitch routes that are scattered all over the slopes, and continue on the nearby Velika Drča and on other walls in vicinity.
A – STARI GRAD 

Tik 
6b 
20 m 

Tak 
6b 
20 m 

Noro leto 
6b+ 
22 m 

Smer brvincev 
6b+ 
22 m 

Top gun 
7a+ 
22 m 

Maruška 
7a+ 
22 m 

Centralna smer 
5c 
22 m 

Direktna smer 
5b 
22 m 

Tsunami 
5c 
22 m 

Lahka 
3 
20 m 

Ferdi 
5b 
20 m 

B – MALA PLOŠČA 

Ipsilon 
4a 
10 m 

Alfa 
4a 
10 m 

Beta 
6a 
10 m 

Gama 
5c 
10 m 
* 
Delta 
5c 
10 m 
* 
Eta 
5b 
10 m 
* 
Omega 
4a 
10 m 

C – LEVA PLOŠČA 

Tomo Vinkovič 
4b 
15 m 

Jambo 
4b 
18 m 

Jumbo 
4b 
20 m 

Leva smer 
4b 
25 m 

Naredi sam 
6c+ 
20 m 

Zelena dolina 
6b 
20 m 

Centralna smer levo 
5c 
20 m 

Centralna smer desno 
6a+ 
20 m 

Desna 
4c 
22 m 

Orko šporko 
6a 
15 m 

Oštrigeca 
6a 
15 m 

Čota balota 
5c 
15 m 

Čota 
5a 
13 m 

Ponev 
6a 
10 m 

Kozica 
6a+ 
10 m 

Piko 
3 
10 m 

Pika 
3 
10 m 

Piki 
4a 
10 m 

Luknja 
6b 
20 m 

Strupenjača 
6c+ 
8 m 

Klopotača 
6c 
8 m 

Boa 
5c 
8 m 

??? !!! 
? 
20 m 

D – TONAČEV PREVIS 

Kanta 
6a+ 
13 m 

Iztokova 
7b 
12 m 

Ludwig 
6c+ 
15 m 

Tonačev previs 
6b+ 
15 m 

Čarobna piščal 
7a+ 
10 m 

Jutranja varianta 
5a 
12 m 

Smer malega kamina 
4b 
20 m 

Uš 
5a 
18 m 

Hillary 
6a+ 
18 m 

To ni bla Metka 
6a 
18 m 

E SIVA PLOŠČA 

MS mp 
4a, 5b 
60 m 
* 
Siva mp 
4a, 6a+ 
60 m 
* 
Rubikon mp 
4a, 6c+ 
60 m 
* 
Like a virgin mp 
4a, 7b 
60 m 

??? 
P 
35 m 

Papagaya 
6b+ 
35 m 

Gregorjeva smer 
5c 
35 m 

Think blue 
6a 
20 m 

Think red 
6b+ 
20 m 

Think pink 
7a+ 
20 m 

Štirje levi 
5a 
15 m 

Tri mačke 
5a 
15 m 

F RUMENA PLOŠČA 

Apolon 
5b 
12 m 

Čmrljev let 
5c 
12 m 

Plavček 
5c 
12 m 

Belka 
5a 
15 m 

Dan potem 
6c+ 
32 m 

Zebra 
4b 
35 m 

V soju zvezd 
7c 
28 m 

Nekega lepega dne 
7a+ 
35 m 

Špelca marelca 
7a 
25 m 

Varianta Citrončka 
6a+ 
25 m 

Citronček 
6a 
25 m 
* 
Vipavski steber 
5c 
25 m 

Vipavski steber 2.del 
6c+ 
35 m 

Maruška potepuška 
6b+ 
25 m 

Življenje je lepo 
7b 
22 m 
* 
V svetu senzacij 
7a 
26 m 
* 
Absolutno mega 
7a+ 
26 m 
* 
Diagonalka 
6a+ 
30 m 

Diagonalka 2. del 
5b 
45 m 

Varianta diagonalke 
6a+ 
27 m 

Maruška potepuška 
6b+ 
25 m 

Življenje je lepo 
7b 
22 m 

V svetu senzacij 
7a 
26 m 

Absolutno mega 
7a+ 
26 m 

Diagonalka 
6a+ 
30 m 

Diagonalka 2. del 
5b 
45 m 

Varianta diagonalke 
6a+ 
27 m 

V vetru rdečih zastav 
6c 
22 m 

Vroča linija 
6c+ 
22 m 
* 
Orgazem (Uturi) 
6c+ 
22 m 

Orgazem 2. del 
6a 
35 m 

Črna luknja 
6c 
35 m 

Čokolino 
5b 
21 m 
* 
Čokolino 2. del 
7a 
35 m 

Čokotela 
5c 
33 m 

Vroča linija 
6c+ 
22 m 
* 
Rumena 
5b 
22 m 
* 
Rumena 2. del 
5b 
35 m 

Rolada 
6b 
32 m 

Kremšnita 
6b 
25 m 
* 
Šamrola 
7a 
25 m 

Rogljič 
7c 
25 m 

Štrudl 
6c+ 
18 m 

Gorila Magila 
7a+ 
18 m 

Nana mala opica 
7b+ 
18 m 

G STEBER 

Skriti raz MP 
5b, 4c 
90 m 

Raz stebra MP 
4a, 5c, 4a 
90 m 

Vipavska sapca MP 
6a, 7a+, 7a+, 6a+, 4a 
100 m 

Jubilejna MP 
3, 6c+, 6b, 4a 
95 m 

Ciklamen MP 
3, 5c, 5b, 4a 
95 m 
* 
Steber MP 
4a, 4c, 3, 4a 
95 m 
** 
Skrivnosti narave trad 
5a, 5a 
85 m 

Vrnitev v večnost MP 
6b+, 6a+, 5b 
95 m 

Poročna trad 
6b, 5a 
70 m 

Prvomajska trad 
IV / V 
120 m 

Tu in tam trad 
IV+ / III 
140 m 

Sex na eks trad 
4c / IV, III 
120 m 

Jesenska trad 
IV 
110 m 

H TRIKOT 

Perla 
6c+ 
25 m 

Selekcija 
6a+ 
25 m 
* 
Kakadu 
P 
25 m 

Kakadu MP 
A0, 6a 
60 m 

Kazino 
6a 
+15 m 

Maria Bella 
6b+ 
25 m 

Trikot 
4c 
35 m 

Trikot 2.del 
4b 
+25 m 

Ruleta 
5a 
+25 m 

??? 
P 
+25 m 

Via Ina 
7b+ 
25 m 

I – MALI OLTAR 

Husky 
5b 
12 m 

Logo 
5a 
12 m 

Palček Smuk 
4b 
12 m 

J – OLTAR 

Noname 
4b 
10 m 

Fantazija 
6b 
10 m 

Tira mi su 
6c+ 
12 m 

Mačo Mačon 
6c+ 
12 m 

Fanta 
5c 
12 m 

Fatamorgana 
6a+ 
15 m 

Slika 
5b 
15 m 

Lahka 
4a 
27 m 

Severna 
4c 
35 m 

Prečenje trad 
4b 
40 m 

Zahodna 
4b 
45 m 

Botrova 
5a 
45 m 

Mombasa 
6b+ 
20 m 

Tečajniška trad 
3 
40 m 

Leva smer 
4a 
25 m 

Klasična 
5a 
35 m 
* 
Britev com 
6a 
35 m 

Crazy horse 
6a 
25 m 

Zadnja šansa 
6a 
35 m 
* 
Počena 
5c 
35 m 

Desna smer 
5b 
35 m 

Tinky Winky 
2 
6 m 

Dipsy 
2 
6 m 

Lili 
2 
5 m 

Po 
2 
5 m 

K – LUSKA 

Dvojna zajeda 
4b 
15m 

Leteča baterija 
5b 
15 m 

Varianta dvojne zajede 
5a 
15 m 

Mačji kašelj 
6a+ 
15 m 

Zgornja dvojna zajeda 
5b 
45 m 

Mama buči 
5c 
45 m 

Varianta fantovske 
6a+ 
45 m 

Luska 
5b 
45 m 
* 
Fantovska 
5c 
45 m 

Prijateljska !!! 
4c 
35 m 

Troboj trad 
7a 
40 m 

L – GORNJA POT 

Kazačok 
6c 
23 m 

Netopir 
4c 
14 m 

Pocinkana 
5c 
14 m 

Camel tropic 
6a+ 
13 m 

Ole Ole 
7b+ 
13 m 

Varianta Ole 
6b+ 
13 m 

UCLA 
5a 
13 m 

M – PIKAPOLONICA 

Martin Krpan 
5c 
12 m 

Astor 
5a 
12 m 

Šiška 
5a 
25 m 

Škorpijon 
4c 
25 m 

Pajek 
4c 
25 m 

Easy 
3 
18 m 

Miniatura 
4b 
18 m 

Lili 
6a 
18 m 

Mona Liza 
6c+ 
18 m 

Desiree 
7b 
18 m 

Oda norosti 
7a+ 
18 m 

Črna Liza 
6b 
18 m 
* 
Kakao 
6c+ 
16 m 

Slow 
5b 
15 m 

Seva 
4c 
14 m 

Pašnik 
3 
17 m 

Vrtiček 
4a 
17 m 

Balkon 
5a 
17 m 

Platka 
4c 
12 m 
* 
Pišuka 
6a+ 
12 m 

Pol teč pol meš 
5c 
12 m 

Kačja slina 
5b 
15 m 

Pomladanska smer 
5a 
15 m 
* 
Odbita 
5b 
14 m 
* 
Raz 
6a 
15 m 

Varianta raza 
6a 
15 m 

Sodoma 
6b 
16 m 
* 
Gomora 
6c 
16 m 

Fanatik 
7c+ 
13 m 

Pikapolonica 
6a 
13 m 
* 
Bananarama 
6c+ 
13 m 

Banana split 
5b 
13 m 

Dimnik 
4c 
15 m 

Piki 
4b 
15 m 

Ara 
4c 
17 m 

Aro 
6a+ 
17 m 

Kačka 
6b 
18 m 

Modri dirkač 
6b 
18 m 

Kačji pastir 
6a+ 
15 m 

Kinder maher 
5c 
15 m 

Končni prijem 
5b 
15 m 

Opita 
5c 
12 m 

Zabita 
5c 
11 m 

Pussy cat 
5b 
11 m 

Raček 
4c 
10 m 

Desni raček 
5a 
9 m 

Goska 
4b 
9 m 

Varianta Račke 
4a 
6 m 

Račka 
3 
5 m 

Putka 
3 
5 m 

Kravca 
2 
6 m 

Zajček 
4a 
6 m 

Punčka 
3 
6 m 

Fantek 
3 
5 m 

N – TRI VOTLINE 

Varianta 80 
4b 
25 m 

Smer 80 
4c 
25 m 

Viskolit 
5a 
25 m 

Trmoglavka 
5c 
28 m 

??? 
P 
8 m 

Janjina zgodba 
6c+ 
24 m 

Gamsja 
5a 
35 m 
* 
Mimo votline 
4b 
35 m 
* 
Jožek 
6a 
22 m 

Sammy Jojo 
7b 
22 m 

??? 
P 
22 m 

Rajcing team 
7a 
12 m 

Kiko 
4c 
9 m 

Špina 
5a 
9 m 

Hrestač 
5a 
9 m 

Sladki greh 
5b 
9 m 

??? 
P 
9 m 

Drdra 
5c 
8 m 

O – TRIPTIH 

Vili 
2 
8 m 

Kasandra 
5b 
14 m 

Ogledalce 
5c 
14 m 

Stričeva 
4b 
12 m 

Milka 
6c 
12 m 

Trava Sv. Lucije 
6c+ 
12 m 

Flok 
7a 
12 m 

Flik 
6a 
12 m 

Flak 
6a+ 
12 m 

??? 
??? 
? m 

Zajeda Triptih 
6a 
22 m 
* 
Variola Vera 
6a+ 
22 m 

Srednji Triptih 
6a 
22 m 

Desni Triptih 
6a 
22 m 
* 
Varianta Triptih 
5b 
23 m 
* 
Albino Vidoni 
6b+ 
20 m 

Črni Peter 
6b 
20 m 

Red bull 
5c 
17 m 

Lastovka 
5a 
12 m 

Tička 
5b 
12 m 

Strela 
4c 
22 m 

Grom 
5a 
22 m 

Lizika 
2 
6 m 

Bonbonček 
2 
6 m 

P – PRINCESKA 

Princeska 
4a 
25 m 

Mala lepotička 
4a 
25 m 

Butalska TRAD 
4c 
50 m 

R – ZADNJE PLOŠČE 

Zobobol 
6a 
20 m ? 

Kalodont 
5a 
20 m ? 

Kokošja juhica TRAD The route is originally a multipitch, starting under Joker. 
4a 
50 m ? 

Joker 
7a 
8 m 

Jolly 
6b 
6 m 

? 
? 
? m 

? 
? 
? m 

? 
? 
? m 

? 
? 
? m 

? 
? 
? m 

Batman 
5c 
15 m 

Velika zajeda TRAD !?! 
5c 
30 m 

Feniks 
7c 
30 m 

Slonček 
6a 
30 m 
* 
Samantha 
6c+ 
25 m 

Sabrina 
6b+ 
25 m 

Dolga TRAD !?! 
4c 
45 m 

Hribovska TRAD !?! 
4a 
30 m 

Kamnoseška TRAD !?! 
5c 
35 m 

Hot dog 
6b+ 
25 m 

Kaminska TRAD !?! 
4c 
40 m 

Hippy Dippy 
7c+ 
20 m 

? 
P 
20 m 

? 
P 
20 m 

Kot 
6a 
20 m 

? 
? 
20 m 

Sončnice 
6c+ 
30 m 

Sonce v očeh 
6b 
30 m 

Sol Sol 
5c 
30 m 
* 
Sunshine reaggae 
6b 
35 m 
* 
O sole mio 
6c 
35 m 

Direktor Šubar 
6c 
30 m 

Delovska sobota 
6a 
30 m 

Radnička 
6c 
30 m 

Proletarska 
5a 
30 m 
