COSTIERA

Costiera is full of old patina – there are some rusty bolts, strange anchors and routes that cross each other and zigzag on the wall, and often earn their grade in a nasty or polished crux. But Costiera redeems itself with scenic location above the sea (which you can reach via a steep path), with tranquility and some sense of adventure. This is not a big climbing anthill, although it offers many routes of all grades, among which many beauties are hidden.

Costiera lies under the coastal road between Trieste and Sistiana. You get there the easiest by following the motorway A4, on which you take the exit Sistiana and stay on the left side (sign for Costiera). Driving along the road above the coast you will get to a tunnel with a scenic spot and parking – a couple of cars fit on both sides of the tunnel. For new sector cross the railing at the end of the rest spot and descend on a steep way down. For the old sector cross the railing on the other side of the tunnel and follow feratta towards the wall. Look at the photo for the spot where you go down and the bigger map at the Santa Croce crag for general orientation.

WAY TO THE CRAG The path isn’t long but it’s quite demanding, in both cases you use a steep ferratta to go down.

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Costiera

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Costiera 45.743748, 13.665753

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI 

OCIZLA HOSTEL 

BEST SEASON Costiera is a winter crag. Closeness of the sea can bring freshness, which is nice in the spring and autumn, when a too hot sunny day can be uncomfortable. In the summer it is simply too hot, so instead of going to the crag, continue towards the sea and save yourself a heart attack. Mind the sea urchins.

SUN & SHADE Since the wall has many corners, you will always find some shade, but the route selection will be small. If you seek shade, it’s best to visit the crag in the morning.

RAIN Costiera is not too rain-proof, but it still has enough overhangs, that you can climb some shorter routes even if there’s a light sprinkle.

STYLE & ROUTES Be a little conservative and try a grade or two below your level – at least at the beginning. The routes are mostly vertical with an ocassional overhang, often polished and at times quite cruxy – either they had really hard grades back then or the passing of time made them harder. The cruxes are a combo of technical climbing and power, with a few tufas to spice things up. A general rule is that vertical and easier grades can be quite stiff, while the harder and more overhanging routes tend to be a bit soft.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid. But it can be polished. The bolts are generally nice, even re-equiped recently, though there are some old ones. Most routes are short and the long ones usually have an anchor in the middle. So if you can re-tie your knot, you should be fine with a shorter rope, but take at least 14 quickdraws.

KIDS & COMFORT There are some comfortable plateaus at the base, but the approach itself is not advisable for the toddlers and feeble people. Some beginnings of routes can be a bit psychotic.

BEGINNERS For a couple of visits, you can find quite nice routes, the easy ones in Nuova Costiera and around the corner in the middle of the crag. 2/5

ADVANCED Costiera is foremost a crag for advanced climbers. If you are willing to accept, that you may have some unexpected problems, you will enjoy in a colorful and historic selection of the routes. 5/5

THE BEST  There are not many hard routes, and even those are either soft (more on the left) or quite hard (more on the right). At least try the classic Colibri. 2/5

NOTES Don‘t leave valuables in the car – there have been some reported thefts. And watch out when you drive back on the road. The path to the beach leads by some “private” properties.

COSTIERA NUOVA

Senza nome 1

6a

14 m

 

Senza nome 2

6a

14 m

 

L’ingegner

6a

15 m

*

Elisir d’equilibrio

7a

15 m

 

Senza nome 3

6a+

15 m

 

Senza nome 4 COM

6a

18 m

 

Il custode della terra

6b

20 m

 

Placca del Lorenzo

7a+

20 m

 

Per intenditori

7a

20 m

 

Altri tempi

5c

10 m

**

Xocen

5b

10 m

 

 

COSTIERA

Papillon

5b

17 m

 

Papillon do vrha ext

6b+

35 m

 

Tropical ext

7c

35 m

 

Wovie Zowie ext 

7b+

35 m

*

Armadillo brillo

6b

35 m

 

Jango

6c

18 m

*

Meglio di niente

7c

18 m

 

Shadow

7b

18 m

 

La mela

6c

15 m

*

Santa Esmeralda

8a

15 m

*

Cocomo

8a

15 m

*

Pensiero positivo

7c

16 m

*

Romantico scoglio

6b+

20 m

*

Romantico scoglio 2. del ext 

6b+

40 m

*

Variante Aldin ext

6b+

40 m

 

???

P

40 m

 

Macedonia

4c

16 m

 

Macedonia do vrha ext

7b

40 m

 

Liquerizia

6b+

25 m

*

Gelati

6b+

25 m

*

Gelati 2. del ext 

6c

45 m

*

C’est plus facile ext

7a

45 m

 

Mister Fantasy ext

7b+

40 m

 

Settimo cielo

6c+

25 m

*

Settimo cielo

2. del ext

7a+

30 m

 

Rambo

7a+

25 m

*

Rambo 2. del ext

7c

30 m

 

Kura

7c+

27 m

*

Colibrì

8a+

20 m

 

Piperita Patty

6c+

20 m

 

Piperita Patty 2. del ext 

7a+

27 m

*

Maga magò

6c

27 m

*

Kren caramel

6c

25 m

 

House party

7c+

20 m

 

Jon Jon

6c+

20 m

 

Burattinaio pazzo

6b

20 m

*

Topo Gigio

5c

25 m

*

Gabriella tutta panna

6a

25 m

 

Finferlucchere

5c

40 m

*

Survival

6b

40 m

 

Hass Fidanken

6c

18 m

 

Hass Fidanken 2.del ext

7a

40 m

 

Tramezzino ext

6c

40 m

 

Coca cola kid

7c

15 m

 

Pallido inverno

7b

15 m

*

Exodus ¶

7b+

18 m

 

Exodus 2. del high

6b+

35 m

 

Ultimo tango

P

35 m

 

Bela Lugosi

6c+

25 m

 

Bela Lugosi 2. del ext 

7a+

35 m

*

Doris

8a+

35 m

 

Minami

7b

22 m

 

Gratton pour homme ext

P

35 m

 

Faccia a faccia con sé stessi

7b+

12 m

 

Pasticcini

6b

30 m

 

Pasticcini 2. del ext

7a+

40 m

 

Comici

6a

25 m

 

Comici 2.del ext 

6b

40 m

*

Variante centrale ext

6b

40 m