ČRNI KAL
Granddaddy of Slovenian free climbing and a training ground for mountaineers has spread to both sides in the recent years, mainly due to bolting efforts of Betka Galičič – with many easier but great routes for beginners and advanced climbers. In between, you can still find old classics, that are so polished that they can easily be graded one or two grades higher. For a relaxing, easy going day of climbing on the karst sun you can hardly pick a better crag (unfortunately many climbing schools think the same).
On motorway (direction Koper) take the exit Kastelec and follow the signs for Podgorje/Črnotiče. After less than 1 kilometer turn right for Črnotiče and then right again at a small shack, onto a dirt road, which brings you to the first parking. Less suitable is the road through the village of Črni Kal – drive slowly – around the church and up the hill to a large parking space. From the large parking a path to the right leads to the rightmost sectors, or left towards the tower. There is space for a few cars beside the road.
WAY TO THE CRAG The path is more or less straight and easy, though it is a bit long for the furthest sectors.
There are a couple of options nearby for sleeping; hostel ROBIDA is located in the village of Črni Kal and it is next to a restaurant. A couple of houses rent apartments in the village and you also have Osp that’s just a few minutes drive into the valley. There you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.
We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:
BEST SEASON Best seasons are, of course, spring and autumn. In the winter you need a sunny day (which happens often), while in the summer it’s usually too hot, though some walls are less exposed.
SUN & SHADE The crag is protected from the wind and has many trees and corners, providing shade, so the heat is not a big problem, unless you decide to climb in the most exposed walls – which are, on the other hand, great for the winter. In the summer you can find most shade around the tower.
RAIN There are not many overhangs, so you will need a dry day. The wall can take a short shower, but it will also dry quite fast if the sun is shining.
STYLE & ROUTES The routes are mostly vertical, of all types – from routes, dotted with jugs from bottom to the top, to the technical cruxes where you will hardly be able to move. But if you look around, you will also find small roofs, overhangs, corners and cracks. If the route looks polished, it probably is. That doesn‘t mean it is not nice, but you have been warned.
GEAR & SAFETY The rock quality is excellent and rarely breaks – but beware in new sectors, that still need to be „cleaned“. Because of hikers and animals above you, caution (and helmet) is advised. The routes are bolted perfectly, even though there is sometimes a complaint or two – as many climbers not used to leading the routes come here. You can climb even with 8 quickdraws and 50 meter rope. There are plenty of shorter routes, but be careful at the longer ones on the tower and in new sectors. After a few rebolting actions, most of the bolts are glue-ins with anchors with carabiners, but occassionally you can still find some relics from the old times.
KIDS & COMFORT Approach is simple, while the space under the wall is big and comfortable. This is a perfect crag for families, kids, classes and beginners and at peak seasons this definitely shows. Although it can be crowded, the wall is big enough for people to disperse, but we would advise a little patience.
BEGINNERS We don’t have to say again, that Črni Kal is in all aspects a perfect crag for beginners, both in quality and number of routes. But nonetheless, be careful – not all 6a’s are the same in being all nice and easy! 5/5
ADVANCED If you can accept the fact, that cruxes in many routes will remind you of the times when you started climbing, you will find enough challenges and (mostly on the right) beautiful routes. 4/5
THE BEST It’s true, that there are not many routes for you – just two 8’s and a few harder 7’s. But they are extremely technical and vertical problems, where even modern professionals will be challenged a lot. 1/5
WARNING The crag is less problematic than neighbouring Osp, as it has a big parking outside the village. Just a couple of routes on the tower are (kind of) forbidden for climbing. If you’re coming on the road through the village, drive slowly and carefully and be as quiet and undisturbing as possible.
NOTES Črni Kal is full of history. In the nearby quarry a paleolithic axe was discovered, as well as a bronze statue from Roman period. Climbers are familiar with Turkish tower – a ruin of an old castle dated to 11th century, which was built to control the important trading route. Also special is the church of st. Valentine with its leaning tower (so why even go to Pisa?) and the oldest house in these parts – Benko‘s house from 1489. A skull with the oldest tooth filling was found in Loka – momentarily it‘s kept in Trieste. Seaside region was affected by the furious fight against occupation in the WW2 more than other parts of Slovenia – you can be reminded of that at the „skater“ monument halfway to Osp. The nearby Gabrovica was burned to the ground because it was a location of partisan print press.
NAD CESTO |
|||
Poletje |
6b+ |
10 m |
|
Morje |
6c+ |
10 m |
|
Sonce |
7b |
15 m |
|
Vročina |
7b+ |
14 m |
|
Na strehi sveta |
7b |
14 m |
|
Najlepša |
6c+ |
16 m |
|
Boj z naravo |
7b+ |
13 m |
|
Ocizla |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Upanje |
6b+ |
13 m |
|
Strast |
6c+ |
12 m |
|
Grenkoba |
7a |
12 m |
|
Princeska Prva |
5c |
19 m |
* |
Let’s start again |
6b |
22 m |
* |
Franček Frančišek |
6b |
22 m |
* |
Čarovnici iz BiaSep |
6a |
23 m |
|
Vsakdo išče svoje parkirišče |
6c |
20 m |
|
Mokre sanje |
6b+ |
22 m |
|
Egipt |
6a |
14 m |
|
Paradigma |
6a |
14 m |
|
Navdušenje |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
Moment |
6a |
16 m |
|
Trenutek sreče |
5c |
16 m |
|
TURŠKI STOLP |
|||
Sandijev raz |
6a |
27 m |
|
Senca |
6c+ |
27 m |
|
Kirnova |
6a |
27 m |
|
Valterjeva zajeda direkt |
6a |
27 m |
|
Valterjeva zajeda |
5c |
27 m |
|
Dreamcatcher |
6b+ |
27 m |
* |
Kondor |
6c+ |
27 m |
|
JJJ |
8a |
27 m |
|
Almina |
7b |
27 m |
|
Škrablova poč |
6c |
27 m |
* |
??? |
P |
? m |
|
Uscana zofka |
6c |
27 m |
|
Vislice |
7a+ |
29 m |
|
Giljotina |
6c+ |
30 m |
* |
Pas de deux |
7c |
15 m |
|
Medved |
7c+ |
17 m |
|
King size – leva varianta |
6c+ |
29 m |
|
King size |
6c+ |
29 m |
|
Pingvin |
7a+ |
18 m |
|
Pingvin do vrha EXT |
7b |
29 m |
|
Mlin na veter |
6c |
25 m |
* |
Bobiči |
6a+ |
24 m |
|
Barcaffe |
7a |
12 m |
|
Turška kava |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
Normalna |
4b |
16 m |
|
Po grajskih stopnicah |
4c |
15 m |
|
Srčkana |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
LBA |
6c |
16 m |
|
Zidarska poč |
7a |
17 m |
|
Prostozidarska |
7b+ |
17 m |
|
Brez raza |
8a |
17 m |
|
Prepih |
6b+ |
17 m |
|
ZA STOLPOM |
|||
Konec raja |
6b |
33 m |
|
Poletje odhaja |
6b |
33 m |
|
Draga naša Lidija |
5c |
35 m |
|
Johnny Jump |
6a+ |
25 m |
|
Elanora |
5c |
19 m |
|
Wannabe |
6a |
19 m |
|
Deponija |
6a |
23 m |
|
Koko bom vrtal, če nimam niti za vijake |
6a+ |
22 m |
|
Superca |
5c |
28 m |
* |
D.D. Love iz Kastelca |
7a+ |
26 m |
|
J.S. Vinogradnik iz Kastelca |
7a |
25 m |
|
Viadukt redukt |
7a+ |
25 m |
|
Viadukt COM |
6c |
25 m |
|
Dežela senc |
6c+ |
17 m |
|
Burja |
6b |
17 m |
|
Šah mat |
7a |
17 m |
|
X |
7b |
16 m |
|
Levi Y |
6a |
16 m |
* |
??? |
P |
16 m |
|
Desni Y |
5c |
16 m |
|
Buhtelj |
5b |
15 m |
|
Bula |
6c |
16 m |
|
Legalize it |
7b+ |
16 m |
|
Turški med |
6b |
16 m |
|
Črn prusik |
6a+ |
17 m |
* |
Gauda |
6c+ |
16 m |
|
Krokonoj |
6b+ |
16 m |
* |
Leve sirove luknje |
6c |
17 m |
* |
Desne sirove luknje |
6b |
17 m |
* |
Gorgonzola |
6b |
17 m |
|
Vagabund |
7b |
16 m |
* |
Rokova |
6c |
17 m |
|
Ledeni možje COM |
6c |
17 m |
|
Zmrznjeni možje |
6c+ |
21 m |
|
Bog odpusti jim |
5c |
15 m |
|
Dilema |
6c |
10 m |
|
D.O.A |
6c |
10 m |
|
Intenzivno |
7a |
10 m |
|
Tjaška |
5b |
17 m |
* |
Tončica COM |
5a |
17 m |
|
Sončica |
6a |
17 m |
|
Perje |
5c |
16 m |
|
Prestop |
4c |
16 m |
|
Z poč |
5c |
17 m |
|
Martinčkov rep |
6b |
16 m |
|
Izhod Road runner |
6a |
11 m |
* |
Kojot Vily |
5c |
12 m |
|
Poševna zajeda |
5c |
15 m |
* |
Daffy Duck |
6a+ |
15 m |
|
Bugs Bunny |
5b |
16 m |
|
J3K – Špelin grafit |
5c |
16 m |
|
Kamin |
4a |
16 m |
|
Sonce popoldan |
5b |
15 m |
* |
Pakla |
5b |
14 m |
|
Lunapark |
4a |
14 m |
* |
Bilabong |
5b |
15 m |
* |
LOKOMOTIVA |
|||
Sončna ura |
6a |
15 m |
|
Ajda |
4c |
15 m |
|
Vilijeva |
4b |
15 m |
* |
Bori šumijo |
5c |
15 m |
|
Raz lokomotive |
6c |
15 m |
|
Trboveljska |
6c+ |
15 m |
|
Lokomotiva |
6b+ |
15 m |
|
Lajza |
6a+ |
15 m |
* |
Soft rock |
6c |
15 m |
|
Kamena doba |
6c |
15 m |
|
Škis berač |
6a |
15 m |
|
Leteči Dolenc |
5b |
15 m |
|
Pasja radost |
6a |
15 m |
|
Barbara |
7b |
16 m |
|
VV |
6c+ |
16 m |
|
Popaj |
6a |
16 m |
* |
Popajev raz |
6b+ |
16 m |
|
Kačja slina |
6c |
16 m |
|
Borček |
6b+ |
16 m |
|
Bubo COM |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
Bunka |
5c |
13 m |
|
Čez streho |
6c+ |
13 m |
|
Levičarka |
5b |
13 m |
* |
Pomaranča |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Mandarina |
7b |
12 m |
|
Hard rock |
6c |
12 m |
|
Midnight moving |
6a+ |
12 m |
* |
Varianta JŽ |
5c |
12 m |
|
JŽ |
5b |
14 m |
* |
Goseničar |
5c |
14 m |
|
Gosenica |
5a |
14 m |
* |
Cergol |
6b+ |
14 m |
|
Kamin |
5b |
14 m |
|
Trabant |
5c |
16 m |
* |
Raz Mercedesa |
6a |
16 m |
* |
Mercedes |
6c |
16 m |
|
Mičo COM |
6b |
16 m |
|
Fičo |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
Mortisia Adams |
6b+ |
13 m |
|
Poč |
5b |
13 m |
|
Oliva COM |
5b |
13 m |
|
Bela gurtna |
5c |
15 m |
* |
Teddy bear |
6c |
15 m |
|
Lily Marlene |
6b |
16 m |
* |
NSK |
6b |
16 m |
|
Jahača |
5b |
16 m |
|
Kreš test |
5b |
15 m |
* |
Carpe Diem |
5c |
15 m |
* |
Bingel bongel |
5b |
15 m |
|
Heker |
6a |
15 m |
|
Krvava nevesta |
6a |
16 m |
|
Fosilček |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
R 12 |
6b |
16 m |
|
I.R. Babon |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
I.AM Weasel |
6a |
16 m |
|
Surogat |
6a |
16 m |
|
Beetle juice |
6a+ |
16 m |
|
Mična gospodična |
4c |
16 m |
* |
Kačon |
5c |
16 m |
|
Burleska RŽV |
5a |
16 m |
* |
RISANKE |
|||
Dan D |
6a |
14 m |
|
Sandijeva zajeda |
5c |
12 m |
|
Piranha |
7a |
12 m |
|
Francev raz |
5b |
14 m |
|
TCG Ut |
5b |
14 m |
|
Mladi upi |
3 |
14 m |
|
Kosovir |
4c |
14 m |
|
Scooby-doo |
4a |
12 m |
|
Kratka slatka |
4b |
12 m |
|
Dexters laboratory |
6a |
12 m |
|
Marenda |
4c |
15 m |
|
Cow & Chicken |
5c |
12 m |
|
Johnny Bravo |
4c |
12 m |
|
2 stupid dogs |
5b |
10 m |
|
Žanetka |
4b |
14 m |
* |
Vremenko |
5a |
15 m |
|
Kokijev raz |
6b+ |
16 m |
|
13 duhov |
4c |
16 m |
|
Turbo folk |
4b |
16 m |
* |
40+ |
4c |
16 m |
* |
Opičji posli |
4c |
16 m |
|
Nulta ura |
4c |
16 m |
|
Sreča na vrvici |
4b |
17 m |
|
Vrtnar |
4b |
17 m |
|
Plevica |
4c |
17 m |
|
Zlati časi |
4c |
17 m |
* |
VMESNI SEKTORJI |
|||
Mira ur |
4b |
10 m |
* |
Oj ježek moj |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
COOH2 |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Čebelica |
5a |
11 m |
|
Mary Pompins |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Cvrček |
5a |
10 m |
|
Žužek |
6a |
10 m |
|
Zavajon |
6b |
10 m |
|
Bojler |
6c |
10 m |
|
Jutri je nov dan |
6a+ |
23 m |
|
Najboljši sosed |
5a |
23 m |
|
Komu zvoni |
5c |
22 m |
|
Stekleni zvon |
6a+ |
23 m |
|
Uranoja |
5c |
24 m |
|
Še pomnite, tovariši |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Adijo pamet |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Fračji dol |
5b |
14 m |
|
Mali pišček |
4c |
14 m |
* |
Exitus in tabula |
5c |
15 m |
|
Ovarij |
4a |
15 m |
|
Smegma |
5b |
15 m |
|
Globus |
5a |
15 m |
* |
Casus Purus Putus |
6a |
16 m |
|
Mea Culpa |
5a |
16 m |
|
SIDARTA |
|||
Frtala |
7a |
15 m |
|
Labodji spev |
5b |
18 m |
|
Tudi angeli jočejo |
5c |
18 m |
|
Flancat |
6a+ |
19 m |
|
Krofek |
6c |
19 m |
|
Grdi raček |
6c+ |
19 m |
|
Čarovnija |
7c |
19 m |
|
Lolek |
6a+ |
20 m |
* |
Regrat z jajci |
6a |
20 m |
|
Primorski sneg (brez zajede) |
6c+ |
20 m |
|
Bolek |
7a |
20 m |
|
Ramayana |
6a+ |
23 m |
* |
Zrcalce |
6b |
22 m |
|
Sidarta |
6a |
25 m |
* |
Miška |
6a |
25 m |
|
Matako Koyama |
5c |
22 m |
|
Vikova |
6c+ |
22 m |
|
Petek 19. |
6b+ |
25 m |
* |
P. drekač |
6c |
25 m |
|
Modri dirkač |
6c |
25 m |
|
Hipotenuza |
6b+ |
26 m |
|
Var. Hipotenuze |
6b |
26 m |
|
Štrigon |
7a |
26 m |
|
Mau Ce Mem Kresnu |
7a+ |
26 m |
|
V novo tisočletje |
6c |
28 m |
* |
Guliver |
6c |
25 m |
* |
Fenix |
6c+ |
29 m |
|
Pride in mine |
6c+ |
31 m |
* |
Roja |
6a+ |
30 m |
|
Prišel, videl, omagal |
6b |
33 m |
|
Skin deep |
7b |
33 m |
* |
Dolce far niente |
7a |
35 m |
* |
Stokalnik |
7a+ |
35 m |
|
Miš maš |
7a |
35 m |
|
Šiš miš |
7b+ |
33 m |
|
Vzemi ali pusti |
7a+ |
31 m |
|
Lom valov |
6c+ |
30 m |
|
Mačje pokopališče |
6c+ |
29 m |
|
Alkimist |
7a+ |
29 m |
|
Stonoga |
7b |
30 m |
|
Božji veter |
7b |
32 m |
|
Airbag |
7a+ |
34 m |
|
OB PROGI |
|||
Aligator !!! |
7b |
33 m |
|
Pavijan |
7a+ |
33 m |
|
Thorn birds |
6c |
30 m |
|
Vrtinec rož |
6c |
30 m |
|
Peskovnik |
6a+ |
28 m |
* |
Migula |
6c+ |
30 m |
|
Polarni sij |
6c |
30 m |
|
Franci na balanci |
6a |
30 m |
* |
Oskubljena kura |
6c+ |
28 m |
|
Vetrnica |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Pazi, vlak! |
6b |
25 m |
* |
Kripl klub !!! |
5c |
17 m |
|
Kr neki !!! |
6a |
17 m |
|
Pasulj !!! |
5a |
17 m |
|
Cvetje v jeseni |
6a |
17 m |
|
Nergomanija |
6c |
17 m |
|
Superspinatus |
6c+ |
17 m |
|
Sivi Panterji |
6a+ |
17 m |
|
Terapija |
6c+ |
17 m |
|
Lejina |
6a+ |
17 m |
|
Viagrakiller |
6c |
15 m |
|
Roman the best |
6c+ |
18 m |
|
Stranski tir |
6c |
17 m |
|
Epikondinitis |
6b+ |
17 m |
|
J.S. Sadilec rož |
6b |
17 m |
|
Jutri bo bolje |
6b |
17 m |
|
Zemljotres |
7a |
13 m |
|
Princ čistoti |
6c |
10 m |
|
Škratek |
5c |
10 m |
|