ČRNI KAL
Granddaddy of Slovenian free climbing and a training ground for mountaineers has spread to both sides in the recent years, mainly due to bolting efforts of Betka Galičič – with many easier but great routes for beginners and advanced climbers. In between, you can still find old classics, that are so polished that they can easily be graded one or two grades higher. For a relaxing, easy going day of climbing on the karst sun you can hardly pick a better crag (unfortunately many climbing schools think the same).
On motorway (direction Koper) take the exit Kastelec and follow the signs for Podgorje/Črnotiče. After less than 1 kilometer turn right for Črnotiče and then right again at a small shack, onto a dirt road, which brings you to the first parking. Less suitable is the road through the village of Črni Kal – drive slowly – around the church and up the hill to a large parking space. From the large parking a path to the right leads to the rightmost sectors, or left towards the tower. There is space for a few cars beside the road.
WAY TO THE CRAG The path is more or less straight and easy, though it is a bit long for the furthest sectors.
There are a couple of options nearby for sleeping; hostel ROBIDA is located in the village of Črni Kal and it is next to a restaurant. A couple of houses rent apartments in the village and you also have Osp that’s just a few minutes drive into the valley. There you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.
We would definitely recommend staying in these climbertested establishments:
BEST SEASON Best seasons are, of course, spring and autumn. In the winter you need a sunny day (which happens often), while in the summer it’s usually too hot, though some walls are less exposed.
SUN & SHADE The crag is protected from the wind and has many trees and corners, providing shade, so the heat is not a big problem, unless you decide to climb in the most exposed walls – which are, on the other hand, great for the winter. In the summer you can find most shade around the tower.
RAIN There are not many overhangs, so you will need a dry day. The wall can take a short shower, but it will also dry quite fast if the sun is shining.
STYLE & ROUTES The routes are mostly vertical, of all types – from routes, dotted with jugs from bottom to the top, to the technical cruxes where you will hardly be able to move. But if you look around, you will also find small roofs, overhangs, corners and cracks. If the route looks polished, it probably is. That doesn‘t mean it is not nice, but you have been warned.
GEAR & SAFETY The rock quality is excellent and rarely breaks – but beware in new sectors, that still need to be „cleaned“. Because of hikers and animals above you, caution (and helmet) is advised. The routes are bolted perfectly, even though there is sometimes a complaint or two – as many climbers not used to leading the routes come here. You can climb even with 8 quickdraws and 50 meter rope. There are plenty of shorter routes, but be careful at the longer ones on the tower and in new sectors. After a few rebolting actions, most of the bolts are glueins with anchors with carabiners, but occassionally you can still find some relics from the old times.
KIDS & COMFORT Approach is simple, while the space under the wall is big and comfortable. This is a perfect crag for families, kids, classes and beginners and at peak seasons this definitely shows. Although it can be crowded, the wall is big enough for people to disperse, but we would advise a little patience.
BEGINNERS We don’t have to say again, that Črni Kal is in all aspects a perfect crag for beginners, both in quality and number of routes. But nonetheless, be careful – not all 6a’s are the same in being all nice and easy! 5/5
ADVANCED If you can accept the fact, that cruxes in many routes will remind you of the times when you started climbing, you will find enough challenges and (mostly on the right) beautiful routes. 4/5
THE BEST It’s true, that there are not many routes for you – just two 8’s and a few harder 7’s. But they are extremely technical and vertical problems, where even modern professionals will be challenged a lot. 1/5
WARNING The crag is less problematic than neighbouring Osp, as it has a big parking outside the village. Just a couple of routes on the tower are (kind of) forbidden for climbing. If you’re coming on the road through the village, drive slowly and carefully and be as quiet and undisturbing as possible.
NOTES Črni Kal is full of history. In the nearby quarry a paleolithic axe was discovered, as well as a bronze statue from Roman period. Climbers are familiar with Turkish tower – a ruin of an old castle dated to 11th century, which was built to control the important trading route. Also special is the church of st. Valentine with its leaning tower (so why even go to Pisa?) and the oldest house in these parts – Benko‘s house from 1489. A skull with the oldest tooth filling was found in Loka – momentarily it‘s kept in Trieste. Seaside region was affected by the furious fight against occupation in the WW2 more than other parts of Slovenia – you can be reminded of that at the „skater“ monument halfway to Osp. The nearby Gabrovica was burned to the ground because it was a location of partisan print press.
NAD CESTO 

Poletje 
6b+ 
10 m 

Morje 
6c+ 
10 m 

Sonce 
7b 
15 m 

Vročina 
7b+ 
14 m 

Na strehi sveta 
7b 
14 m 

Najlepša 
6c+ 
16 m 

Boj z naravo 
7b+ 
13 m 

Ocizla 
6a+ 
13 m 

Upanje 
6b+ 
13 m 

Strast 
6c+ 
12 m 

Grenkoba 
7a 
12 m 

Princeska Prva 
5c 
19 m 
* 
Let’s start again 
6b 
22 m 
* 
Franček Frančišek 
6b 
22 m 
* 
Čarovnici iz BiaSep 
6a 
23 m 

Vsakdo išče svoje parkirišče 
6c 
20 m 

Mokre sanje 
6b+ 
22 m 

Egipt 
6a 
14 m 

Paradigma 
6a 
14 m 

Navdušenje 
6a+ 
16 m 

Moment 
6a 
16 m 

Trenutek sreče 
5c 
16 m 

TURŠKI STOLP 

Sandijev raz 
6a 
27 m 

Senca 
6c+ 
27 m 

Kirnova 
6a 
27 m 

Valterjeva zajeda direkt 
6a 
27 m 

Valterjeva zajeda 
5c 
27 m 

Dreamcatcher 
6b+ 
27 m 
* 
Kondor 
6c+ 
27 m 

JJJ 
8a 
27 m 

Almina 
7b 
27 m 

Škrablova poč 
6c 
27 m 
* 
??? 
P 
? m 

Uscana zofka 
6c 
27 m 

Vislice 
7a+ 
29 m 

Giljotina 
6c+ 
30 m 
* 
Pas de deux 
7c 
15 m 

Medved 
7c+ 
17 m 

King size – leva varianta 
6c+ 
29 m 

King size 
6c+ 
29 m 

Pingvin 
7a+ 
18 m 

Pingvin do vrha EXT 
7b 
29 m 

Mlin na veter 
6c 
25 m 
* 
Bobiči 
6a+ 
24 m 

Barcaffe 
7a 
12 m 

Turška kava 
6a+ 
16 m 

Normalna 
4b 
16 m 

Po grajskih stopnicah 
4c 
15 m 

Srčkana 
6a+ 
16 m 

LBA 
6c 
16 m 

Zidarska poč 
7a 
17 m 

Prostozidarska 
7b+ 
17 m 

Brez raza 
8a 
17 m 

Prepih 
6b+ 
17 m 

ZA STOLPOM 

Konec raja 
6b 
33 m 

Poletje odhaja 
6b 
33 m 

Draga naša Lidija 
5c 
35 m 

Johnny Jump 
6a+ 
25 m 

Elanora 
5c 
19 m 

Wannabe 
6a 
19 m 

Deponija 
6a 
23 m 

Koko bom vrtal, če nimam niti za vijake 
6a+ 
22 m 

Superca 
5c 
28 m 
* 
D.D. Love iz Kastelca 
7a+ 
26 m 

J.S. Vinogradnik iz Kastelca 
7a 
25 m 

Viadukt redukt 
7a+ 
25 m 

Viadukt COM 
6c 
25 m 

Dežela senc 
6c+ 
17 m 

Burja 
6b 
17 m 

Šah mat 
7a 
17 m 

X 
7b 
16 m 

Levi Y 
6a 
16 m 
* 
??? 
P 
16 m 

Desni Y 
5c 
16 m 

Buhtelj 
5b 
15 m 

Bula 
6c 
16 m 

Legalize it 
7b+ 
16 m 

Turški med 
6b 
16 m 

Črn prusik 
6a+ 
17 m 
* 
Gauda 
6c+ 
16 m 

Krokonoj 
6b+ 
16 m 
* 
Leve sirove luknje 
6c 
17 m 
* 
Desne sirove luknje 
6b 
17 m 
* 
Gorgonzola 
6b 
17 m 

Vagabund 
7b 
16 m 
* 
Rokova 
6c 
17 m 

Ledeni možje COM 
6c 
17 m 

Zmrznjeni možje 
6c+ 
21 m 

Bog odpusti jim 
5c 
15 m 

Dilema 
6c 
10 m 

D.O.A 
6c 
10 m 

Intenzivno 
7a 
10 m 

Tjaška 
5b 
17 m 
* 
Tončica COM 
5a 
17 m 

Sončica 
6a 
17 m 

Perje 
5c 
16 m 

Prestop 
4c 
16 m 

Z poč 
5c 
17 m 

Martinčkov rep 
6b 
16 m 

Izhod Road runner 
6a 
11 m 
* 
Kojot Vily 
5c 
12 m 

Poševna zajeda 
5c 
15 m 
* 
Daffy Duck 
6a+ 
15 m 

Bugs Bunny 
5b 
16 m 

J3K – Špelin grafit 
5c 
16 m 

Kamin 
4a 
16 m 

Sonce popoldan 
5b 
15 m 
* 
Pakla 
5b 
14 m 

Lunapark 
4a 
14 m 
* 
Bilabong 
5b 
15 m 
* 
LOKOMOTIVA 

Sončna ura 
6a 
15 m 

Ajda 
4c 
15 m 

Vilijeva 
4b 
15 m 
* 
Bori šumijo 
5c 
15 m 

Raz lokomotive 
6c 
15 m 

Trboveljska 
6c+ 
15 m 

Lokomotiva 
6b+ 
15 m 

Lajza 
6a+ 
15 m 
* 
Soft rock 
6c 
15 m 

Kamena doba 
6c 
15 m 

Škis berač 
6a 
15 m 

Leteči Dolenc 
5b 
15 m 

Pasja radost 
6a 
15 m 

Barbara 
7b 
16 m 

VV 
6c+ 
16 m 

Popaj 
6a 
16 m 
* 
Popajev raz 
6b+ 
16 m 

Kačja slina 
6c 
16 m 

Borček 
6b+ 
16 m 

Bubo COM 
6a+ 
16 m 

Bunka 
5c 
13 m 

Čez streho 
6c+ 
13 m 

Levičarka 
5b 
13 m 
* 
Pomaranča 
6a+ 
13 m 

Mandarina 
7b 
12 m 

Hard rock 
6c 
12 m 

Midnight moving 
6a+ 
12 m 
* 
Varianta JŽ 
5c 
12 m 

JŽ 
5b 
14 m 
* 
Goseničar 
5c 
14 m 

Gosenica 
5a 
14 m 
* 
Cergol 
6b+ 
14 m 

Kamin 
5b 
14 m 

Trabant 
5c 
16 m 
* 
Raz Mercedesa 
6a 
16 m 
* 
Mercedes 
6c 
16 m 

Mičo COM 
6b 
16 m 

Fičo 
6a+ 
16 m 

Mortisia Adams 
6b+ 
13 m 

Poč 
5b 
13 m 

Oliva COM 
5b 
13 m 

Bela gurtna 
5c 
15 m 
* 
Teddy bear 
6c 
15 m 

Lily Marlene 
6b 
16 m 
* 
NSK 
6b 
16 m 

Jahača 
5b 
16 m 

Kreš test 
5b 
15 m 
* 
Carpe Diem 
5c 
15 m 
* 
Bingel bongel 
5b 
15 m 

Heker 
6a 
15 m 

Krvava nevesta 
6a 
16 m 

Fosilček 
6a+ 
16 m 

R 12 
6b 
16 m 

I.R. Babon 
6a+ 
16 m 

I.AM Weasel 
6a 
16 m 

Surogat 
6a 
16 m 

Beetle juice 
6a+ 
16 m 

Mična gospodična 
4c 
16 m 
* 
Kačon 
5c 
16 m 

Burleska RŽV 
5a 
16 m 
* 
RISANKE 

Dan D 
6a 
14 m 

Sandijeva zajeda 
5c 
12 m 

Piranha 
7a 
12 m 

Francev raz 
5b 
14 m 

TCG Ut 
5b 
14 m 

Mladi upi 
3 
14 m 

Kosovir 
4c 
14 m 

Scoobydoo 
4a 
12 m 

Kratka slatka 
4b 
12 m 

Dexters laboratory 
6a 
12 m 

Marenda 
4c 
15 m 

Cow & Chicken 
5c 
12 m 

Johnny Bravo 
4c 
12 m 

2 stupid dogs 
5b 
10 m 

Žanetka 
4b 
14 m 
* 
Vremenko 
5a 
15 m 

Kokijev raz 
6b+ 
16 m 

13 duhov 
4c 
16 m 

Turbo folk 
4b 
16 m 
* 
40+ 
4c 
16 m 
* 
Opičji posli 
4c 
16 m 

Nulta ura 
4c 
16 m 

Sreča na vrvici 
4b 
17 m 

Vrtnar 
4b 
17 m 

Plevica 
4c 
17 m 

Zlati časi 
4c 
17 m 
* 
VMESNI SEKTORJI 

Mira ur 
4b 
10 m 
* 
Oj ježek moj 
6a+ 
10 m 

COOH2 
6a+ 
10 m 

Čebelica 
5a 
11 m 

Mary Pompins 
6a+ 
10 m 

Cvrček 
5a 
10 m 

Žužek 
6a 
10 m 

Zavajon 
6b 
10 m 

Bojler 
6c 
10 m 

Jutri je nov dan 
6a+ 
23 m 

Najboljši sosed 
5a 
23 m 

Komu zvoni 
5c 
22 m 

Stekleni zvon 
6a+ 
23 m 

Uranoja 
5c 
24 m 

Še pomnite, tovariši 
6b+ 
25 m 

Adijo pamet 
6b+ 
25 m 

Fračji dol 
5b 
14 m 

Mali pišček 
4c 
14 m 
* 
Exitus in tabula 
5c 
15 m 

Ovarij 
4a 
15 m 

Smegma 
5b 
15 m 

Globus 
5a 
15 m 
* 
Casus Purus Putus 
6a 
16 m 

Mea Culpa 
5a 
16 m 

SIDARTA 

Frtala 
7a 
15 m 

Labodji spev 
5b 
18 m 

Tudi angeli jočejo 
5c 
18 m 

Flancat 
6a+ 
19 m 

Krofek 
6c 
19 m 

Grdi raček 
6c+ 
19 m 

Čarovnija 
7c 
19 m 

Lolek 
6a+ 
20 m 
* 
Regrat z jajci 
6a 
20 m 

Primorski sneg (brez zajede) 
6c+ 
20 m 

Bolek 
7a 
20 m 

Ramayana 
6a+ 
23 m 
* 
Zrcalce 
6b 
22 m 

Sidarta 
6a 
25 m 
* 
Miška 
6a 
25 m 

Matako Koyama 
5c 
22 m 

Vikova 
6c+ 
22 m 

Petek 19. 
6b+ 
25 m 
* 
P. drekač 
6c 
25 m 

Modri dirkač 
6c 
25 m 

Hipotenuza 
6b+ 
26 m 

Var. Hipotenuze 
6b 
26 m 

Štrigon 
7a 
26 m 

Mau Ce Mem Kresnu 
7a+ 
26 m 

V novo tisočletje 
6c 
28 m 
* 
Guliver 
6c 
25 m 
* 
Fenix 
6c+ 
29 m 

Pride in mine 
6c+ 
31 m 
* 
Roja 
6a+ 
30 m 

Prišel, videl, omagal 
6b 
33 m 

Skin deep 
7b 
33 m 
* 
Dolce far niente 
7a 
35 m 
* 
Stokalnik 
7a+ 
35 m 

Miš maš 
7a 
35 m 

Šiš miš 
7b+ 
33 m 

Vzemi ali pusti 
7a+ 
31 m 

Lom valov 
6c+ 
30 m 

Mačje pokopališče 
6c+ 
29 m 

Alkimist 
7a+ 
29 m 

Stonoga 
7b 
30 m 

Božji veter 
7b 
32 m 

Airbag 
7a+ 
34 m 

OB PROGI 

Aligator !!! 
7b 
33 m 

Pavijan 
7a+ 
33 m 

Thorn birds 
6c 
30 m 

Vrtinec rož 
6c 
30 m 

Peskovnik 
6a+ 
28 m 
* 
Migula 
6c+ 
30 m 

Polarni sij 
6c 
30 m 

Franci na balanci 
6a 
30 m 
* 
Oskubljena kura 
6c+ 
28 m 

Vetrnica 
6b+ 
25 m 

Pazi, vlak! 
6b 
25 m 
* 
Kripl klub !!! 
5c 
17 m 

Kr neki !!! 
6a 
17 m 

Pasulj !!! 
5a 
17 m 

Cvetje v jeseni 
6a 
17 m 

Nergomanija 
6c 
17 m 

Superspinatus 
6c+ 
17 m 

Sivi Panterji 
6a+ 
17 m 

Terapija 
6c+ 
17 m 

Lejina 
6a+ 
17 m 

Viagrakiller 
6c 
15 m 

Roman the best 
6c+ 
18 m 

Stranski tir 
6c 
17 m 

Epikondinitis 
6b+ 
17 m 

J.S. Sadilec rož 
6b 
17 m 

Jutri bo bolje 
6b 
17 m 

Zemljotres 
7a 
13 m 

Princ čistoti 
6c 
10 m 

Škratek 
5c 
10 m 
