ČRNI KAL

Granddaddy of Slovenian free climbing and a training ground for mountaineers has spread to both sides in the recent years, mainly due to bolting efforts of Betka Galičič – with many e­asier but great routes for beginners and advanced climbers. In between, you can still find old classics, that are so polished that they can easily be graded one or two grades higher. For a relaxing, easy going day of climbing on the karst sun you can hardly pick a better crag (unfortunately many climbing schools think the same).

On motorway (direction Koper) take the exit Kastelec and follow the signs for Podgorje/Črnotiče. After less than 1 kilometer turn right for Črnotiče and then right again at a small shack, onto a dirt road, which brings you to the first parking. Less suitable is the road through the village of Črni Kal – drive slowly – around the church and up the hill to a large parking space. From the  large parking a path to the right leads to the rightmost sectors, or left towards the tower. There is space for a few cars beside the road.

WAY TO THE CRAG The path is more or less straight and easy, though it is a bit long for the furthest sectors.

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Črni Kal

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Črni Kal 45.553416, 13.879551 Črni Kal parking

There are a couple of options nearby for sleeping; hostel ROBIDA is located in the village of Črni Kal and it is next to a restaurant. A couple of houses rent apartments in the village and you also have Osp that’s just a few minutes drive into the valley. There you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI 

OCIZLA HOSTEL 

BEST SEASON Best seasons are, of course, spring and autumn. In the winter you need a sunny day (which happens often), while in the summer it’s usually too hot, though some walls are less exposed.

SUN & SHADE The crag is protected from the wind and has many trees and corners, providing shade, so the heat is not a big problem, unless you decide to climb in the most exposed walls – which are, on the other hand, great for the winter. In the summer you can find most shade around the tower.

RAIN There are not many overhangs, so you will need a dry day. The wall can take a short shower, but it will also dry quite fast if the sun is shining.

STYLE & ROUTES The routes are mostly vertical, of all types – from routes, dotted with jugs from b­ottom to the top, to the technical cruxes where you will hardly be able to move. But if you look around, you will also find small roofs, overhangs, corners and cracks. If the route looks polished, it probably is. That doesn‘t mean it is not nice, but you have been warned.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock quality is excellent and rarely breaks – but beware in new sectors, that still need to be „cleaned“. Because of hikers and animals above you, caution (and helmet) is advised. The routes are bolted perfectly, even though there is sometimes a complaint or two – as many climbers not used to leading the routes come here. You can climb even with 8 quickdraws and 50 meter rope. There are plenty of shorter routes, but be careful at the longer ones on the tower and in new sectors. After a few rebolting actions, most of the bolts are glue-ins with anchors with carabiners, but occassionally you can still find some relics from the old times.

KIDS & COMFORT Approach is simple, while the space under the wall is big and comfortable. This is a perfect crag for families, kids, classes and beginners and at peak seasons this definitely shows. Although it can be crowded, the wall is big enough for people to disperse, but we would advise a little patience.

BEGINNERS We don’t have to say again, that Črni Kal is in all aspects a perfect crag for beginners, both in quality and number of routes. But nonetheless, be careful – not all 6a’s are the same in being all nice and easy! 5/5

ADVANCED If you can accept the fact, that cruxes in many routes will remind you of the times when you started climbing, you will find enough c­hallenges and (mostly on the right) beautiful routes. 4/5

THE BEST  It’s true, that there are not many routes for you – just two 8’s and a few harder 7’s. But they are extremely technical and vertical problems, where even modern professionals will be challenged a lot. 1/5

WARNING The crag is less problematic than neighbouring Osp, as it has a big parking outside the village. Just a couple of routes on the tower are (kind of) forbidden for climbing. If you’re coming on the road through the village, drive slowly and carefully and be as quiet and undisturbing as possible.

NOTES Črni Kal is full of history. In the nearby quarry a paleolithic axe was discovered, as well as a bronze statue from Roman period. Climbers are familiar with Turkish tower – a ruin of an old castle dated to 11th century, which was built to control the important trading route. Also special is the church of st. Valentine with its leaning tower (so why even go to Pisa?) and the oldest house in these parts – Benko‘s house from 1489.  A skull with the oldest tooth filling was found in Loka – momentarily it‘s kept in Trieste. Seaside region was affected by the furious fight against occupation in the WW2 more than other parts of Slovenia – you can be reminded of that at the „skater“ monument halfway to Osp. The nearby Gabrovica was burned to the ground because it was a location of partisan print press.

NAD CESTO

Poletje

6b+

10 m

 

Morje

6c+

10 m

 

Sonce

7b

15 m

 

Vročina

7b+

14 m

 

Na strehi sveta

7b

14 m

 

Najlepša

6c+

16 m

 

Boj z naravo

7b+

13 m

 

Ocizla

6a+

13 m

 

Upanje

6b+

13 m

 

Strast

6c+

12 m

 

Grenkoba

7a

12 m

 

Princeska Prva

5c

19 m

*

Let’s start again

6b

22 m

*

Franček Frančišek

6b

22 m

*

Čarovnici iz BiaSep

6a

23 m

 

Vsakdo išče svoje parkirišče

6c

20 m

 

Mokre sanje

6b+

22 m

 

Egipt

6a

14 m

 

Paradigma

6a

14 m

 

Navdušenje

6a+

16 m

 

Moment

6a

16 m

 

Trenutek sreče

5c

16 m

 

TURŠKI STOLP

Sandijev raz

6a

27 m

 

Senca

6c+

27 m

 

Kirnova

6a

27 m

 

Valterjeva zajeda direkt

6a

27 m

 

Valterjeva zajeda

5c

27 m

 

Dreamcatcher

6b+

27 m

*

Kondor

6c+

27 m

 

JJJ

8a

27 m

 

Almina

7b

27 m

 

Škrablova poč

6c

27 m

*

???

P

? m

 

Uscana zofka

6c

27 m

 

Vislice

7a+

29 m

 

Giljotina

6c+

30 m

*

Pas de deux

7c

15 m

 

Medved

7c+

17 m

 

King size – leva varianta

6c+

29 m

 

King size

6c+

29 m

 

Pingvin

7a+

18 m

 

Pingvin do vrha EXT

7b

29 m

 

Mlin na veter

6c

25 m

*

Bobiči

6a+

24 m

 

Barcaffe

7a

12 m

 

Turška kava

6a+

16 m

 

Normalna

4b

16 m

 

Po grajskih stopnicah

4c

15 m

 

Srčkana

6a+

16 m

 

LBA

6c

16 m

 

Zidarska poč

7a

17 m

 

Prostozidarska

7b+

17 m

 

Brez raza

8a

17 m

 

Prepih

6b+

17 m

 

ZA STOLPOM

Konec raja

6b

33 m

 

Poletje odhaja

6b

33 m

 

Draga naša Lidija

5c

35 m

 

Johnny Jump

6a+

25 m

 

Elanora

5c

19 m

 

Wannabe

6a

19 m

 

Deponija

6a

23 m

 

Koko bom vrtal, če nimam niti za vijake

6a+

22 m

 

Superca

5c

28 m

*

D.D. Love iz Kastelca

7a+

26 m

 

J.S. Vinogradnik iz Kastelca

7a

25 m

 

Viadukt redukt

7a+

25 m

 

Viadukt COM

6c

25 m

 

Dežela senc

6c+

17 m

 

Burja

6b

17 m

 

Šah mat

7a

17 m

 

X

7b

16 m

 

Levi Y

6a

16 m

*

???

P

16 m

 

Desni Y

5c

16 m

 

Buhtelj

5b

15 m

 

Bula

6c

16 m

 

Legalize it

7b+

16 m

 

Turški med

6b

16 m

 

Črn prusik

6a+

17 m

*

Gauda

6c+

16 m

 

Krokonoj

6b+

16 m

*

Leve sirove luknje

6c

17 m

*

Desne sirove luknje

6b

17 m

*

Gorgonzola

6b

17 m

 

Vagabund

7b

16 m

*

Rokova

6c

17 m

 

Ledeni možje COM

6c

17 m

 

Zmrznjeni možje

6c+

21 m

 

Bog odpusti jim

5c

15 m

 

Dilema

6c

10 m

 

D.O.A

6c

10 m

 

Intenzivno

7a

10 m

 

Tjaška

5b

17 m

*

Tončica COM

5a

17 m

 

Sončica

6a

17 m

 

Perje

5c

16 m

 

Prestop

4c

16 m

 

Z poč

5c

17 m

 

Martinčkov rep

6b

16 m

 

Izhod Road runner

6a

11 m

*

Kojot Vily

5c

12 m

 

Poševna zajeda

5c

15 m

*

Daffy Duck

6a+

15 m

 

Bugs Bunny

5b

16 m

 

J3K – Špelin grafit

5c

16 m

 

Kamin

4a

16 m

 

Sonce popoldan

5b

15 m

*

Pakla

5b

14 m

 

Lunapark

4a

14 m

*

Bilabong

5b

15 m

*

LOKOMOTIVA

Sončna ura

6a

15 m

 

Ajda

4c

15 m

 

Vilijeva

4b

15 m

*

Bori šumijo

5c

15 m

 

Raz lokomotive

6c

15 m

 

Trboveljska

6c+

15 m

 

Lokomotiva

6b+

15 m

 

Lajza

6a+

15 m

*

Soft rock

6c

15 m

 

Kamena doba

6c

15 m

 

Škis berač

6a

15 m

 

Leteči Dolenc

5b

15 m

 

Pasja radost

6a

15 m

 

Barbara

7b

16 m

 

VV

6c+

16 m

 

Popaj

6a

16 m

*

Popajev raz

6b+

16 m

 

Kačja slina

6c

16 m

 

Borček

6b+

16 m

 

Bubo COM

6a+

16 m

 

Bunka

5c

13 m

 

Čez streho

6c+

13 m

 

Levičarka

5b

13 m

*

Pomaranča

6a+

13 m

 

Mandarina

7b

12 m

 

Hard rock

6c

12 m

 

Midnight moving

6a+

12 m

*

Varianta JŽ

5c

12 m

 

5b

14 m

*

Goseničar

5c

14 m

 

Gosenica

5a

14 m

*

Cergol

6b+

14 m

 

Kamin

5b

14 m

 

Trabant

5c

16 m

*

Raz Mercedesa

6a

16 m

*

Mercedes

6c

16 m

 

Mičo COM

6b

16 m

 

Fičo

6a+

16 m

 

Mortisia Adams

6b+

13 m

 

Poč

5b

13 m

 

Oliva COM

5b

13 m

 

Bela gurtna

5c

15 m

*

Teddy bear

6c

15 m

 

Lily Marlene

6b

16 m

*

NSK

6b

16 m

 

Jahača

5b

16 m

 

Kreš test

5b

15 m

*

Carpe Diem

5c

15 m

*

Bingel bongel

5b

15 m

 

Heker

6a

15 m

 

Krvava nevesta

6a

16 m

 

Fosilček

6a+

16 m

 

R 12

6b

16 m

 

I.R. Babon

6a+

16 m

 

I.AM Weasel

6a

16 m

 

Surogat

6a

16 m

 

Beetle juice

6a+

16 m

 

Mična gospodična

4c

16 m

*

Kačon

5c

16 m

 

Burleska RŽV

5a

16 m

*

 

RISANKE

Dan D

6a

14 m

 

Sandijeva zajeda

5c

12 m

 

Piranha

7a

12 m

 

Francev raz

5b

14 m

 

TCG Ut

5b

14 m

 

Mladi upi

3

14 m

 

Kosovir

4c

14 m

 

Scooby-doo

4a

12 m

 

Kratka slatka

4b

12 m

 

Dexters laboratory

6a

12 m

 

Marenda

4c

15 m

 

Cow & Chicken

5c

12 m

 

Johnny Bravo

4c

12 m

 

2 stupid dogs

5b

10 m

 

Žanetka

4b

14 m

*

Vremenko

5a

15 m

 

Kokijev raz

6b+

16 m

 

13 duhov

4c

16 m

 

Turbo folk

4b

16 m

*

40+

4c

16 m

*

Opičji posli

4c

16 m

 

Nulta ura

4c

16 m

 

Sreča na vrvici

4b

17 m

 

Vrtnar

4b

17 m

 

Plevica

4c

17 m

 

Zlati časi

4c

17 m

*

VMESNI SEKTORJI

Mira ur

4b

10 m

*

Oj ježek moj

6a+

10 m

 

COOH2

6a+

10 m

 

Čebelica

5a

11 m

 

Mary Pompins

6a+

10 m

 

Cvrček

5a

10 m

 

Žužek

6a

10 m

 

Zavajon

6b

10 m

 

Bojler

6c

10 m

 

Jutri je nov dan

6a+

23 m

 

Najboljši sosed

5a

23 m

 

Komu zvoni

5c

22 m

 

Stekleni zvon

6a+

23 m

 

Uranoja

5c

24 m

 

Še pomnite, tovariši

6b+

25 m

 

Adijo pamet

6b+

25 m

 

Fračji dol

5b

14 m

 

Mali pišček

4c

14 m

*

Exitus in tabula

5c

15 m

 

Ovarij

4a

15 m

 

Smegma

5b

15 m

 

Globus

5a

15 m

*

Casus Purus Putus

6a

16 m

 

Mea Culpa

5a

16 m

 

 

SIDARTA

Frtala

7a

15 m

 

Labodji spev

5b

18 m

 

Tudi angeli jočejo

5c

18 m

 

Flancat

6a+

19 m

 

Krofek

6c

19 m

 

Grdi raček

6c+

19 m

 

Čarovnija

7c

19 m

 

Lolek

6a+

20 m

*

Regrat z jajci

6a

20 m

 

Primorski sneg (brez zajede)

6c+

20 m

 

Bolek

7a

20 m

 

Ramayana

6a+

23 m

*

Zrcalce

6b

22 m

 

Sidarta

6a

25 m

*

Miška

6a

25 m

 

Matako Koyama

5c

22 m

 

Vikova

6c+

22 m

 

Petek 19.

6b+

25 m

*

P. drekač

6c

25 m

 

Modri dirkač

6c

25 m

 

Hipotenuza

6b+

26 m

 

Var. Hipotenuze

6b

26 m

 

Štrigon

7a

26 m

 

Mau Ce Mem Kresnu

7a+

26 m

 

V novo tisočletje

6c

28 m

*

Guliver

6c

25 m

*

Fenix

6c+

29 m

 

Pride in mine

6c+

31 m

*

Roja

6a+

30 m

 

Prišel, videl, omagal

6b

33 m

 

Skin deep

7b

33 m

*

Dolce far niente

7a

35 m

*

Stokalnik

7a+

35 m

 

Miš maš

7a

35 m

 

Šiš miš

7b+

33 m

 

Vzemi ali pusti

7a+

31 m

 

Lom valov

6c+

30 m

 

Mačje pokopališče

6c+

29 m

 

Alkimist

7a+

29 m

 

Stonoga

7b

30 m

 

Božji veter

7b

32 m

 

Airbag

7a+

34 m

 

OB PROGI

Aligator !!!

7b

33 m

 

Pavijan

7a+

33 m

 

Thorn birds

6c

30 m

 

Vrtinec rož

6c

30 m

 

Peskovnik

6a+

28 m

*

Migula

6c+

30 m

 

Polarni sij

6c

30 m

 

Franci na balanci

6a

30 m

*

Oskubljena kura

6c+

28 m

 

Vetrnica

6b+

25 m

 

Pazi, vlak!

6b

25 m

*

Kripl klub !!!

5c

17 m

 

Kr neki !!!

6a

17 m

 

Pasulj !!!

5a

17 m

 

Cvetje v jeseni

6a

17 m

 

Nergomanija

6c

17 m

 

Superspinatus

6c+

17 m

 

Sivi Panterji

6a+

17 m

 

Terapija

6c+

17 m

 

Lejina

6a+

17 m

 

Viagrakiller

6c

15 m

 

Roman the best

6c+

18 m

 

Stranski tir

6c

17 m

 

Epikondinitis

6b+

17 m

 

J.S. Sadilec rož

6b

17 m

 

Jutri bo bolje

6b

17 m

 

Zemljotres

7a

13 m

 

Princ čistoti

6c

10 m

 

Škratek

5c

10 m