Osp – Banje & Babna

OSP – BANJE & BABNA

Banje and Babna represent the good old Osp. Exceptionally scenic and sunny location with perfect view over the valley, routes of good quality and great, albeit at times polished or chipped rock. Anybody seeking mid-range routes will enjoy here the most, although this crag can get quite crowded too. Lower sector Banje, also called Behind the village, is more „old school“, technical and chipped and not too overhanging (except on the sides). Babna offers everything – easy vertical routes, powerful overhangs and especially long routes to the edge of the wall.

APPROACH

For initial instructions first check out the text and map for Mišja peč. Thus you will arrive through Gabrovica to Osp. Lately the parking situation here is tense, so let us first emphasize where NOT to park: under no scenario park anywhere in the village, regardless how unobtrusive it may seem to you. Also do not park beside the road or on local driveways outside the village. There are some parking spots at camp Vovk – but first check there about the current situation and after climbing (as a thank you) get some cool beer. You can, however, park on the Mišja peč parking and march on the road to the village. Banje and Babna are above the village, so to get there you will have to go through the village streets up the hill. You will only walk about 10 m more if you consider the local’s wishes and use the leftmost way around the church. Banje sector is right behind the last houses. To get to Babna use the path that splits to the right around the last routes. Stay on the well-trodden path and don‘t wander around the hill. When you get to the clearing, use the left way to the wall and from there walk under the wall to your destination. The dried up grass on the hill may not look like much, but in truth it is a rare and protected semi-steppe grassland community, which takes a lot of damage by constant crossings and erosion.

WAY TO THE CRAG Way to sector Banje leads up a short asphalt hill through the village. From here a bit more strenuous path leads uphill to secor Babna.

Osp - Banje & Babna

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Osp - Banje & Babna 45.572701, 13.859773

ACOMMODATION & FOOD

In Osp you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. In nearby Črni Kal you can find ROBIDA hostel next to a restaurant. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI

OCIZLA HOSTEL

CLIMBING INFO

BEST SEASON Ideal period is from autumn to spring (if the temperatures hold above 10ºC and the wind isn‘t too crazy). In the summer it is quickly too hot, but you can catch some climbing in Banje.

SUN & SHADE Babna is in the sunny exposition almost all day, while the lower sector Banje gets some shade by the trees.

RAIN You can climb some routes even in light rain – but if it gets worse, run away to neighbouring Mišja peč. After the rain the wall dries quickly, except for the tufa.

STYLE & ROUTES Routes in sector Banje are vertical and technical in mid-range, with overhanging bulges on the sides with explicit cruxes. For Babna bring enough endurance and feeling for footwork. There are enough vertical routes for beginners, while harder routes are endurance based on slight overhangs. Only the hardest routes are lacking. Multipitches are rarely climbed and just for spice.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock is clean and compact – it only crumbles occasionally in the right part of Babna. But it can often be polished. Some are bothered by chipped holds in certain routes – but take them as a part of history and a little bit of a different challenge. Osp is nicely maintained, with anchors with biners. You can get enough climbing with standard gear, but for the longest routes even the 80 m rope will be a bit short, so never forget to tie a knot at the end. You may also need up to 20 quickdraws.

KIDS & COMFORT The space under both crags is big and comfortable. Better suited and easily accessible with kids is sector Banje.

BEGINNERS The most of the easy routes are in sector Babna, especially to the far left. 4/5

ADVANCED Advanced climbers will find the most routes for them in both sectors. 5/5

THE BEST Both Banje and Babna have a small cluster of hard routes, but they are all great for some power endurance! 4/5

NOTES

NOTES Apart from caution at parking and access, be as undisturbing as possible – the crag is just above the village and your screaming can be heard over the whole valley. Be angry or happy in a quiet way. Also don‘t steal produce, take your trash with you and try to be polite with locals and everything should be fine.

ROUTES BANJE

BANJE
???	P	17 m
Too hard project.
Osapski pajek	8c	18 m	**
Start in Matičkov svet and continue to the left with power endurance.
Matičkov svet	8b	18 m	*
Crimpy, reachy crux in the middle, then some slopers to spice things up.
Osapska mumija com	8b	18 m	*
A local link of cruxes from Matičkov svet and Karies. Hard one.
Karies	8b	18 m	*
Crimpy start then a short and hard crux after a good rest.
Gronolom	8a+	19 m	*
Crimpy and delicate start. All kinds of boulders with rests in between.
Šamanski prehod	7c	21 m
Reachy beginning. Intense and then awkward crux in the overhang.
Amazonka	6b	21 m	**
Nice and technical warm-up. Need a bit of power half way up.
Ženski finale ‘88	6b	20 m
From Amazonka to the top of Indijanka. Artificial holds.
Indijanka	6a+	20 m	***
Interesting corner climbing with some difficulties in the middle.
The long run	7a	20 m	**
Tufa that soon becomes delicate technical route.
Paris – Dakar	7c	20 m	*
Men’s final in1988. Artificial pocket on top.
Pariški vrt com	7b	20 m	**
A combination that avoids both cruxes. Still quite technical.
The garden	7c+	20 m
Another artificial route with difficulties at the beginning.
Mlado vino	7b	20 m	*
Gets easier towards the top. Crimpy and technical.
Super sok	7c	23 m	*
Bouldery and strange, with crux in upper part.
Super Hik A	6c+	28 m	**
Start is technical, followed by awkward traverse to the left, then easy.
Super Hik B	6c+	32 m	**
Same start as version A, with different, longer, same-same finish.
Poljanski biser A	6c+	32 m	**
Start like Super Hik, then split to the right into a crux. Finish on the easy left.
Poljanski biser B	7a+	32 m	**
Same start as version A, but after the crux continue straight on into another.
Uparjalnik	7c	32 m
After easy start comes technical wall, small roof and hard artificial finish.
Super Elio	7a+	27 m	*
A bit awkward in the beginning, then reacy on small edges.
Super Emil	6c	27 m	*
Same start as Super luknja with different technical crack to finish.
Super luknja	6a	25 m	*
Warm up route, with a couple of not-so-easy parts for beginners.
Domana high	7c+	15 m
Forgotten route on tufa over the roof. Access via Super luknja. Rope!
Virus high	7c	15 m	*
Forgotten route on tufa upstairs. Bouldery. Access via Super luknja. Rope!
Super Elica	6a+	25 m	**
Another warm-up that can be a technical, but nice challenge.
Tačko	6c	25 m	**
Crimpy boulder in the lower part. Later joins with Super Elica.
Le mavrica	7b	26 m	*
Get ready for a nasty crux as you reach undercling.
Jebiga	6b+	25 m	**
Despite having some glued on holds, turns out to be a great warm up.
Skriti zaklad	7b+	25 m	*
Intense and crimpy lower part that gradually gets easier.
Skriti zaklad (2.del) Ext	7b+	37 m	*
Not too hard appendix on sharp edges for those who didn’t get enough.
Super β	7a	26 m	**
At first you need good footwork and fingers. Then comes reachy crux.
Banje	7b	20 m	***
Nice technical lower part, knee-bar rest and a crux before finish.
Banje (2.del) Ext	7b	33 m
A bit scary and unnecessary, about 6c+ on its own.
Gad	8a	19 m
Hard and technical boulder. Reachy start. Rarely repeated.
Osapska	7c	30 m	**
Finger endurance with cruxy parts at the beginning and at the end.
Kalifornija	7c	22 m	*
Bouldery start that turns into delicate vertical climbing.
Kranjski Janez	7c	35 m	*
Hard start on edges that joins with Kalifornija and later continues on.
Polnočni kavboj	7c	20 m	***
Excellent technical test piece. Crimpy and continuous, hard at the top.
Galeb	7b	35 m	**
Full of little boulders, especially in the middle. Nice and continuous.
Jonathan Livingstone	7a	19 m	***
Delicate start, reachy power crux and pumpy finish. A classic route.
Jonagold	7c	23 m	***
Bouldery start, then continuous to the top with some small edges to finish.
Poročna noč	7c	23 m	***
Bouldery start, then nice and continuous.
Zakonska kriza	7b+	23 m	*
After starting in Poročna noč, turn right with another crux after the rest.
Festivalska	7c+	20 m	*
Power boulder at the beginning, then much easier.
Brankova kriza com	7b+	20 m
Like Branko, nasty boulder at start; a good rest and another cruxy part.
Branko	7b+	20 m
Nasty boulder at the start, then much better and fingery.
Mibranko com	6c+	20 m	***
Endurance climb that avoids most of surrounding cruxes.
Miklavž	7b+	18 m
Same start as Mibranko, but you will stop laughing as you get to upper part.
Božiček	6c+	18 m
Rarely climbed with a couple of reachy moves.
Alenka l.t.	6c	14 m	*
Nice and continuous with a crux in the middle.
Dedek Mraz	6c	12 m
Strange route with fingery crux and some tufa. Rarely climbed.

ROUTES BABNA LEFT

BABNA LEFT
Pišta, Feri, Lajči	4a	16 m	**
An easy route ideal for beginners.
Ledika	4a	16 m	***
An easy route ideal for beginners.
Mufta	4b	16 m	***
An easy route ideal for beginners.
Bograč	5a	18 m	*
A bit technical in the beginning, then easy.
Gibanica	4c	18 m	**
Sharp jugs and cracks for beginners.
Taca muca	6b+	20 m	*
Crimpy edges at the start, then easier to the top.
Caprice	7a+	23 m	*
Crimpy start on small edges, then easy with some moving.
Sapramiška	7b	21 m	*
Same start as Caprice, soon turns right into technical traverse.
Pablo Pes	P	21 m
Project around 7c that finishes in Sapramiška.
Puzza di cipolla	7b	21 m	*
Slopers and awkward moving between two overhangs. Smells like onion.
Mai una gioia	7b+	25 m	**
It’s always a joy to climb this route. Cruxy as it gets vertical, and on top.
Fantastic voyage	8a	25 m	**
Crux as the route becomes more vertical, then intense with good rests.
Mosquito’s wall	7b+	19 m	**
After starting with power boulder, turns into an endurance climb.
Črna gradnja	8a	23 m	*
Hard and cruxy lower part, then much easier.
Buena suerte	7b+	19 m	***
You need a bit of power to begin, later it’s just pumpy. Good luck!
Idealist	7a+	19 m	**
Not easy but a nice challenge. Endurance with a crux in the middle.
Jebena zima Ext	7b	35 m	*
Continuation of Idealist. Crimpy after anchor and again as you go right.
Trio fantasticus	6c+	20 m
Bouldery start on artificial pockets, then a bit crimpy and technical.
Trio fantasticus (2.del) Ext	7a	35 m	*
Although almost fully artificial it is quite enjoyable.
Leva bunkica	6c	16 m	*
Bouldery start and easier finish. Same finish as Desna bunkica.
Desna bunkica	6b+	16 m	**
Nice and short, with good holds and some moves on underclings.
Senza corrente high	7c+	20 m	*
Lengthy boulder at start, then intense climbing on edges and small tufa.
Hrenovnjača	6c	12 m	*
Technical crux on the tufa in the middle.
Bohomurček	6b	12 m	**
Crux soon after start, then some delicate footwork.
Vstopite in se veselite	6b	10 m
Boulder at start, then easy to the top.
Grofice	6b+	10 m
Short and unspectacular with awkward middle part.
Ospomaniak high	6c+	21 m	***
Tufa land. Endurance climb, continuous route. A bit bouldery start.
Ospomaniak (2.del) Ext	7a	25 m	*
Short appendix. One artificial hold and one reachy move.
El garbo high	7a+	18 m	*
Basically endurance with a couple of cruxes. Put a long QD at start.
Tantalove muke	7a	35 m	**
Endurance climb on good holds and many rests, with few power moves.

ROUTES BABNA CENTER

BABNA CENTER
Rutka	5a	30 m	*
A bit scary route for beginners that gets awkward. With bird shit.
Kameleon	6c+	34 m	***
Endurance that gets intense on tufa half way up. Plus interesting finish.
Daleč stran je sodni dan	7b	34 m	***
Great route that gradually gets harder as you get pumped.
Si può fare	7b+	27 m	*
When you get to the technical crux just remember – you can do it!
Si può fare (2.del) Ext	7b+	35 m	*
An appendix to the top doesn’t add anything dramatic.
Eolo	7c	30 m	***
Great route with precise and delicate cruxes on edges. Pumpy finish!
Eolo (2.del) Ext	7c+	35 m
Short appendix to the top with one crux right after first anchor.
Fragile	7b+	25 m	**
Hard for the grade. Fingery start, no-hand-rest, then technical on slopers.
Fragile (2.del) Ext	7c	35 m	*
Cruxy right after the first anchor with technical finish.
Sončni dnevi	7b	21 m	*
Different (a bit nicer) start to Rainy days, with same finish.
Rainy days	7b	21 m	*
Old and artificial route with some long moves. Hard for some people.
Ko bo padal dež Ext	7c+	35 m	*
A long crux right after the anchor, then nicer endurance.
Frenki boy	7c+	35 m	**
Turn left into crimps before the end of Demolition. Technical route.
Demolition party	6c	22 m	**
Classic warm up route. Mostly good jugs, sadly getting very polished.
Joint Ext	7b	35 m	**
Start in Demolition.. (or Češpljevi) and avoid the crux of Frenki. Rope drag!
Šok terapija Ext	7b	34 m	*
Start in Demolition party and continue straight for a small crux.
Demolition party (2.del) Ext	7a+	35 m	***
More vertical at the start and a bit pumpy at the end.
Češpljevi cmoki	6c+	23 m	*
Nasty crux on underclings, then similar to Demolition. A bit chipped.
RKc	8a	24 m	**
Two cruxes with reachy moves and some underclings.
Veper lady	8b	26 m	**
Two different cruxes in the middle third. Dynamic climbing.
Martinova gos	8a+	26 m	*
One hard crux and power endurance.
Zadnja skušnjava	8a	24 m	***
A boulder in lower part, rest and a technical finish. Finish on the left!
Vegas 7	8a+	23 m	*
Start in Skušnjava, then go to the right. Nasty crux, then tecnical.
Brancin	8a+	23 m	*
Direct start into Vegas 7.
Zadeti in zmedeni high	6b+	15 m	*
Weird route in the middle of the wall. Access via Delirium tremens.
Delirium tremens	7b	21 m	*
Bouldery start on artificial holes turns into endurance. Reachy. Often wet.
Maudit	7a	20 m	**
Although artificial, it has nice climbing on jugs. Cruxy finish.
Maudit (2.del) Ext	7a+	43 m	***
Great continuation. At times a bit technical, but mostly endurance. Rope!
Pretty lady	6c+	19 m	*
After lenghty boulder at start you need some delicate moving.
Proletarska Ext	7b	38 m	**
Crux after first anchor, then fingery endurance to another crux. Rope!
Pretty baby (1.del)	6a+	18 m	**
Classic warm up, can be done mostly with footwork.
Pretty baby (2.del) Ext	6b	33 m	**
Great appendix. Second pitch, with finish in Črna ovca. Crimpy at the end.
Pretty baby mP	6b+, 6a	50 m	**
Nice climbing, though Pretty baby (2. del) suffices for most climbers.
El diablo Ext	7a	36 m	**
Crux soon after first anchor. Reachy on artificial holds, then nice and long.
Črna ovca	6c	33 m	**
Nice finger endurance with good rests and small cruxes.
Don Nino	6b+	33 m	*
Technical crack soon after start, then more crimpy.
Dolgotacko	6c	25 m	*
Gets bouldery in upper part with crimps and negative holds.
Jaslice	6c+	37 m	**
Two very technical parts in the middle, then just long endurance. A bit airy.
Olympic	7a	28 m	*
Nasty vertical wall with artificial holds and delicate moving.
Dernere surprise (Račke)	6b+	27 m	***
The only surprise at the end is another crux. The first is a bit reachy.
Dernere surprise (2.del) Ext	6c	40 m	*
Continuous to the top, with a bit hidden holds.
Le tapis volant	6b+	25 m	**
Let the flying carpet take you into technical route with crux at the top.
Le tapis volant (2.del) Ext	6b+	42 m	**
By itself this part is around 6a. Technical. Watch out for the rope!
Belle Epoque Ext	6b+	42 m	**
By itself 6a+. Technical and crimpy. You can also start from Derniere…
Murphyjev zakon Ext	6c+	40 m	**
The straightest and hardest extension of Le tapis volant.

ROUTES BABNA RIGHT

BABNA RIGHT
Ženski četrtfinale ‘88	6a	21 m	*
Like milf: old, but still nice and getting polished. Crimpy holds and footwork.
Mirage	6a	24 m	*
A sister route to Ženski čettfinale: almost the same characteristics.
Mirage (2.del) Ext	6c	42 m	*
Continuation of Mirage, more of similar, a bit harder climbing.
Sobotna priloga	6a+	24 m	**
Continuous edges, inventive footwork over the roof.
Sobotna priloga (2.del) Ext	6b+	42 m	**
Continuation of Sobotna priloga, more of similar climbing.
Chat noire	6b	24 m	*
Technical wall gets a bit nasty and negative in middle part.
Hard rain	6b+	23 m	*
Old technical classic. Used to be adored for its beauty, but today… it’s ok.
Hard rain (2.del) Ext	6c	45 m	*
Old classic. Proof: the bolts far apart with ancient pitons in between.Rope!
Prišlek	6b	23 m
Nice edges until a technical reachy crux under the roof.
Prišlek (2.del) Ext !!!	6b+	45 m	*
Continuous edges and small jugs. Good footwork. Loose rock! Rope!
Tarantela	6b+	22 m	**
Continuous on edges and small jugs. Cruxy finish.
Tarantela (2.del) Ext !!!	6c+	40 m	***
More of the same, changes style on the top. Save some strength. Rope!
Tormiento	6c	22 m	*
Start in Tarantela with cruxy traverse to the right.
Minister za zmedo	6b+	37 m	**
Long and technical route on edges and jugs. Watch the rope.
Mr. Hilti	6b+	20 m	***
Bouldery start on edges, then some fingery endurance.
Navihanke Ext !!!	6c	35 m
Extension of Mr Hilti. Watch out for loose rock.
New look	6b	20 m
Bouldery start, then more technical.
Potion magique	6b	19 m
Starts with a fingery boulder, then technical and a bit pumpy.
Tora bora Ext !!!	6c+	35 m
Extesion of Potion magique, can have loose rock.
Just married	6b+	20 m
From edges to jugs and vice versa. Some moves can be reachy.
No siesta	6b	20 m
After crimpy start it gets nicer, but nothing special.
Le plasir de la soir	6a+	23 m
Not much of a party here, with crux at start and finish. Strange line.
Take it easy	6c	33 m
Technical, crimpy and reachy continuation of Le plasir.
Steber jutranje zvezde (1.del)	6b	21 m
A bit of footwork at start and a bit of power at the end. Soft.
Steber jutranje zvezde mp	6b, 6c+, 6c	65 m
Don’t underestimate the second corner pitch. Old route.
Killing me hardly Ext	7a+	37 m	**
Start in Steber, then go straight to join in Killing me softly. Technical.
Killing me softly	6a+	22 m	*
Technical and fingery lower part, comes close to Love story at the top.
Killing me softly (2.del) Ext	7a+	37 m	**
Juggy start, then some micro holds with delicate moving. Specific, but nice.
Love story	5c	23 m	**
Continuous and technical, with a few moves on the top.
Ledeno vino	6a	25 m	**
Easy start with a crux over the roof.
Sea snake Ext	7a+	37 m	*
Technical route turns into a small roof and fingery endurance.
Moon safari Ext !!!	7b	37 m	*
Bouldery endurance over the roof. Loose rock.
Vik in krik	6a+	23 m	*
Crimpy and technical, with negative holds in the middle.
Piccola peste (1.del)	6a	26 m
A strange line that traverses diagonally into a roof with a crux.
Piccola peste mp	6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+	85 m	*
The path of least resistance over the right part. Harder finish.
Solitudine mp var.	6a, 5c, 6c	60 m
A different finish after two pitches of Piccola peste.
Ledena sveča	6a	25 m	**
Vertical route with edges, small jugs and nice moving. Hard finish!
Tirare tipanie	5a	14 m	**
Continuous and easy, a bit tehnical at times.
Maeva	4b	13 m	*
Short and easy, requires a bit of footwork on few occasions.
Čebelica Maja	4a	13 m	**
Nice and simple route for beginners. Only crux is to clip the anchor.
Fetia Ura Ext	8a	28 m	*
Start in Čebelica Maja, which soon becomes 7a with hard crux at the end.
Črni biser	7c	28 m	***
Nice climbing, intense for the grade. Two lenghty cruxes with rest in between.
Sužnji vertikale	7a+	27 m	***
Starts with endurance on jugs and ends with a nice crux near the top.
Za oslovo senco	7a+	26 m	**
Continuous endurance all the way. Smaller holds than Sužnji vertikale.
Il castigo	6b+	25 m	*
Easy all the way to the top, where technical boulder awaits.
Epena	7a+	26 m	**
Easy start, then reachy moves on crimps, very technical.
A tout coeur (1.del)	6b	26 m	***
Reachy moves, jugs and good crimps.
A tout coeur mp	6b, 6a, 7a	65 m	**
First pitch to warm up, last one to really climb. Technical.
Toute de force mp var.	6b, 6a, 7a	65 m	**
First two piches of A tout coeur, then different, though similar finish.
Severi ma giusti	6c	23 m	**
Strict but fair. Yosemitish technical corner into upper crimpy crux.
Dolores	6a+	20 m	*
Easy at first, then nasty crux in upper part.
Čauko	6a	23 m	***
The nicest 6a here. Just use your feet.
Il giardino dell’ Aephiornis (1.del)	6a	24 m	**
Similar to Čauko. Good edges and jugs.
Il giardino dell’ Aephiornis mp	6a, 5b, 5b, 6b	75 m	*
A bit mountaineery, with some loose rock and vegetables. Rarely climbed.
Rawhide mp var.	6a, 5b, 6a+, 6a+	75 m	*
The rightmost two exit picthes of Il giardino dell’ Aephiornis.