VIPAVA

Vipava is actually a collection of crags, spread along the slopes of Nanos above the picturesque and always-in-spring Vipava valley. It is a very diverse mixture, from exemplary maintained crags for complete beginners and advanced climbers, to unclear and not so well maintained sectors with shitty rock, and in-between long (un)bolted multipitches, which often go to the very top of the plateau. Usually you will pick 1-3 sectors and spend a nice climbing day there – especially for beginners Vipava has huge potential and you will always find something new. The better you are, the more likely you will just drive a bit further to Vipavska Bela.

The motorway, which splits under Nanos at Razdrto towards Nova Gorica, will lead you to Vipava through a series of tunnels. Here follow the main road left towards center and soon after, turn right for Gradišče and then drive along the narrow road through the settlement towards kamp Tura. At your right you will see lots of playing fields and a bar, where you park your car. From parking go left uphill, towards nicely visible crags. For sectors B-E stick to the left and right for the others. In each case you will reach a scree slope, where the paths wind up to the sectors. Under the slope there is a map of sectors and here the main walking path turns right. Follow it for sectors L-R or go straight for sectors F-K. For more info use the map in this guidebook or the very useful signposts, which mark all the paths along the way.

For sector A – Stari grad you have to use a bit different approach. It’s best to park in the center of Vipava at Main square and go on foot, first left and then to the right in a side alley, which leads uphill towards a group of houses on top. Theoretically you can get there by car too, but the streets are narrow, parking spaces few and it will only save you a minute or two. Behind the last house on the left you will find a path leading you right. Follow it and be mindful about a small path on the left, once you see the crag there. The wall may be closed occassionally due to birds nesting.

WAY TO THE CRAG The approach varies from short and nice to long and sometimes even a bit dangerous. And everything in between. For example, you’ll suffer much more to get to sector F than sector O.

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VIpava

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VIpava 45.832291, 13.971229

There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.

BEST SEASON Spring and autumn are always great, if only the wall is not wet. Summer can be quickly too hot. In the winter wait for a nice sunny day (possibly without bora wind).

SUN & SHADE Most crags face SW and are in sunny exposition. In the summer, the wall is in shade in the morning and in the afternoon in sector A. You can also catch some climbing in right sectors and in the part of sector J, which faces north.

RAIN Rain will affect almost all routes (except for sector F), but the walls dry quickly, especially if bora wind is blowing. In the winter this can be a problem. Most shelter can be found in sectors on the right side, from L – R.

STYLE & ROUTES Routes are mostly vertical with occasional small roof and usually you will rely on technique and finger power – and many times also on your body height. Only the sector F has endurance pieces on a slight overhang. Of course, there are boulder cruxes now and then – sometimes even in the easier routes. The grades can be a bit local and even feel quite hard. The multipitches are another story.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid limestone in different forms and colors. The more a sector is beginner friendly (such as A-E or M-O), the better the rock is, although it can be a bit polished sometimes. In those sectors the routes have also been nicely rebolted along with new anchors. You will often have to re-tie at the top. But there are also routes, where you can see from the ground, that they can be crumbly and badly equipped. The gear depends on the chosen sector. You can climb with a couple of quickdraws and 40-meter rope, but some other times you need many, many more. The multipitches are another story.

KIDS & COMFORT If we disregard the often long approaches (which are not too demanding), some sectors are very comfortable, with benches and large plateaus and are also kids-friendly (B,C,D,M,R). But there are also sectors, which you approach with a wild via ferratta (H) or have a base unsuitable/unsafe for children (J,K,L). The multipitches are another story.

BEGINNERS Vipava is an ideal crag for beginners, as you can find a couple of routes almost e­verywhere, with whole sectors full of them: B, C, M, O and also J and K for the more mountaineering-types. Even for kids there are groups of short routes in sectors M, N and J (Teletubbies). Then there are multipitches in sectors E and G, which are perfect for the first experience with longer routes. 5/5

ADVANCED A bit harder routes are scattered all over Vipava. Larger groups are found in sectors A, D, M, N and R. And of course in sector F, which is in itself worth a visit and even has overhangs. 4/5

THE BEST  There are no hard routes here. Try Fanatik 7c+ (sector M) or Hippy Dippy 7c+ (sector R) or just go to Vipavska Bela. 1/5

DRYTOOLING   Below the path at the water reservoir there is also a nice, small drytool area Pod Škol with grades from D3 to D6+.

MULTIPITCHES Some of the multipitches are part of sport climbing sectors e.g. E, F, H and especially popular sector G – Steber. They are bolted, of course a bit further apart, but with some slings or nuts they are perfect for beginners. Then there are trad routes, which are not equipped, and are more or less easy. Climb them only with ade­quate knowledge and someone who knows what he’s doing. Along Vipava valley there are many such routes (especially around Ajdovščina), but in the guidebook we included informative topos only for the ones close to the crag. In summer, climbing is not recommended due to thick vegetation.

 

NOTES  The scene in Vipava is among the most lively in Slovenia. In autumn there is a boulder-themed Vipavski Vjlb and in spring there is climbing weekend Tura. Ajdovščina and Vipava climbing clubs maintain many walking and climbing paths, like Gradiška Tura, which passes through the crag and has the famous panoramic bridge, as well as many others in vicinity. More information about those can be found at:

www.gradisce.slog.net, www.ao-ajdovscina.si and www.plezanje.net.

WARNING Vipava is one of the most exemplary crags in Slovenia if we consider the pressure from visitors, cooperation with municipality and nature protectors and general maintenance. Still, there can be occasional closures of some sectors due to birds nesting. You should seriously respect any limitations that are applied. We also omitted one harder sector on Nanos, because it is not maintained properly. Also, do not bolt any new routes without first consulting the local climbing club, which takes care for this area. The guidebook also has a short overview of longer trad multipitch routes that are scattered all over the slopes, and continue on the nearby Velika Drča and on other walls in vicinity.

A – STARI GRAD

Tik

6b

20 m

 

Tak

6b

20 m

 

Noro leto

6b+

22 m

 

Smer brvincev

6b+

22 m

 

Top gun

7a+

22 m

 

Maruška

7a+

22 m

 

Centralna smer

5c

22 m

 

Direktna smer

5b

22 m

 

Tsunami

5c

22 m

 

Lahka

3

20 m

 

Ferdi

5b

20 m

 

 

B – MALA PLOŠČA

Ipsilon

4a

10 m

 

Alfa

4a

10 m

 

Beta

6a

10 m

 

Gama

5c

10 m

*

Delta

5c

10 m

*

Eta

5b

10 m

*

Omega

4a

10 m

 

C – LEVA PLOŠČA

Tomo Vinkovič

4b

15 m

 

Jambo

4b

18 m

 

Jumbo

4b

20 m

 

Leva smer

4b

25 m

 

Naredi sam

6c+

20 m

 

Zelena dolina

6b

20 m

 

Centralna smer levo

5c

20 m

 

Centralna smer desno

6a+

20 m

 

Desna

4c

22 m

 

Orko šporko

6a

15 m

 

Oštrigeca

6a

15 m

 

Čota balota

5c

15 m

 

Čota

5a

13 m

 

Ponev

6a

10 m

 

Kozica

6a+

10 m

 

Piko

3

10 m

 

Pika

3

10 m

 

Piki

4a

10 m

 

Luknja

6b

20 m

 

Strupenjača

6c+

8 m

 

Klopotača

6c

8 m

 

Boa

5c

8 m

 

??? !!!

?

20 m

 

D – TONAČEV PREVIS

Kanta

6a+

13 m

 

Iztokova

7b

12 m

 

Ludwig

6c+

15 m

 

Tonačev previs

6b+

15 m

 

Čarobna piščal

7a+

10 m

 

Jutranja varianta

5a

12 m

 

Smer malega kamina

4b

20 m

 

5a

18 m

 

Hillary

6a+

18 m

 

To ni bla Metka

6a

18 m

 

 

E- SIVA PLOŠČA

MS  mp

4a, 5b

60 m

*

Siva  mp

4a, 6a+

60 m

*

Rubikon  mp 

4a, 6c+

60 m

*

Like a virgin mp

4a, 7b

60 m

 

???

P

35 m

 

Papagaya

6b+

35 m

 

Gregorjeva smer

5c

35 m

 

Think blue

6a

20 m

 

Think red

6b+

20 m

 

Think pink

7a+

20 m

 

Štirje levi

5a

15 m

 

Tri mačke

5a

15 m

 

F- RUMENA PLOŠČA

Apolon

5b

12 m

 

Čmrljev let

5c

12 m

 

Plavček

5c

12 m

 

Belka

5a

15 m

 

Dan potem

6c+

32 m

 

Zebra

4b

35 m

 

V soju zvezd

7c

28 m

 

Nekega lepega dne

7a+

35 m

 

Špelca marelca

7a

25 m

 

Varianta Citrončka

6a+

25 m

 

Citronček

6a

25 m

*

Vipavski steber

5c

25 m

 

Vipavski

steber 2.del

6c+

35 m

 

Maruška potepuška

6b+

25 m

 

Življenje je lepo

7b

22 m

*

V svetu senzacij

7a

26 m

*

Absolutno mega

7a+

26 m

*

Diagonalka

6a+

30 m

 

Diagonalka 2. del

5b

45 m

 

Varianta diagonalke

6a+

27 m

 

Maruška potepuška

6b+

25 m

 

Življenje je lepo

7b

22 m

 

V svetu senzacij

7a

26 m

 

Absolutno mega

7a+

26 m

 

Diagonalka

6a+

30 m

 

Diagonalka 2. del

5b

45 m

 

Varianta

diagonalke

6a+

27 m

 

V vetru rdečih zastav

6c

22 m

 

Vroča linija

6c+

22 m

*

Orgazem (Uturi)

6c+

22 m

 

Orgazem

2. del

6a

35 m

 

Črna luknja

6c

35 m

 

Čokolino

5b

21 m

*

Čokolino

2. del

7a

35 m

 

Čokotela

5c

33 m

 

Vroča linija

6c+

22 m

*

Rumena

5b

22 m

*

Rumena 2. del

5b

35 m

 

Rolada

6b

32 m

 

Kremšnita

6b

25 m

*

Šamrola

7a

25 m

 

Rogljič

7c

25 m

 

Štrudl

6c+

18 m

 

Gorila Magila

7a+

18 m

 

Nana mala opica

7b+

18 m

 

G- STEBER

Skriti raz MP

5b, 4c

90 m

 

Raz stebra MP

4a, 5c, 4a

90 m

 

Vipavska sapca MP

6a, 7a+, 7a+, 6a+, 4a

100 m

 

Jubilejna MP

3, 6c+, 6b, 4a

95 m

 

Ciklamen MP

3, 5c, 5b, 4a

95 m

*

Steber MP

4a, 4c, 3, 4a

95 m

**

Skrivnosti narave trad

5a, 5a

85 m

 

Vrnitev v večnost MP

6b+, 6a+, 5b

95 m

 

Poročna trad

6b, 5a

70 m

 

Prvomajska trad

IV / V

120 m

 

Tu in tam trad

IV+ / III

140 m

 

Sex na eks trad

4c / IV, III

120 m

 

Jesenska trad

IV

110 m

 

H- TRIKOT

Perla

6c+

25 m

 

Selekcija

6a+

25 m

*

Kakadu

P

25 m

 

Kakadu MP

A0, 6a

60 m

 

Kazino

6a

+15 m

 

Maria Bella

6b+

25 m

 

Trikot

4c

35 m

 

Trikot 2.del

4b

+25 m

 

Ruleta

5a

+25 m

 

???

P

+25 m

 

Via Ina

7b+

25 m

 

I – MALI OLTAR

Husky

5b

12 m

 

Logo

5a

12 m

 

Palček Smuk

4b

12 m

 

J – OLTAR

Noname

4b

10 m

 

Fantazija

6b

10 m

 

Tira mi su

6c+

12 m

 

Mačo Mačon

6c+

12 m

 

Fanta

5c

12 m

 

Fatamorgana

6a+

15 m

 

Slika

5b

15 m

 

Lahka

4a

27 m

 

Severna

4c

35 m

 

Prečenje trad

4b

40 m

 

Zahodna

4b

45 m

 

Botrova

5a

45 m

 

Mombasa

6b+

20 m

 

Tečajniška trad

3

40 m

 

Leva smer

4a

25 m

 

Klasična 

5a

35 m

*

Britev com

6a

35 m

 

Crazy horse

6a

25 m

 

Zadnja šansa

6a

35 m

*

Počena

5c

35 m

 

Desna smer

5b

35 m

 

Tinky Winky

2

6 m

 

Dipsy

2

6 m

 

Lili

2

5 m

 

Po

2

5 m

 

K – LUSKA

Dvojna zajeda

4b

15m

 

Leteča baterija

5b

15 m

 

Varianta dvojne zajede

5a

15 m

 

Mačji kašelj

6a+

15 m

 

Zgornja dvojna zajeda

5b

45 m

 

Mama buči

5c

45 m

 

Varianta fantovske

6a+

45 m

 

Luska

5b

45 m

*

Fantovska

5c

45 m

 

Prijateljska !!!

4c

35 m

 

Troboj trad

7a

40 m

 

L – GORNJA POT

Kazačok

6c

23 m

 

Netopir

4c

14 m

 

Pocinkana

5c

14 m

 

Camel tropic

6a+

13 m

 

Ole Ole

7b+

13 m

 

Varianta Ole

6b+

13 m

 

UCLA

5a

13 m

 

M – PIKAPOLONICA

Martin Krpan

5c

12 m

 

Astor

5a

12 m

 

Šiška

5a

25 m

 

Škorpijon

4c

25 m

 

Pajek

4c

25 m

 

Easy

3

18 m

 

Miniatura

4b

18 m

 

Lili

6a

18 m

 

Mona Liza

6c+

18 m

 

Desiree

7b

18 m

 

Oda norosti

7a+

18 m

 

Črna Liza

6b

18 m

*

Kakao

6c+

16 m

 

Slow

5b

15 m

 

Seva

4c

14 m

 

Pašnik

3

17 m

 

Vrtiček

4a

17 m

 

Balkon

5a

17 m

 

Platka

4c

12 m

*

Pišuka

6a+

12 m

 

Pol teč pol meš

5c

12 m

 

Kačja slina

5b

15 m

 

Pomladanska smer

5a

15 m

*

Odbita

5b

14 m

*

Raz

6a

15 m

 

Varianta raza

6a

15 m

 

Sodoma

6b

16 m

*

Gomora

6c

16 m

 

Fanatik

7c+

13 m

 

Pikapolonica

6a

13 m

*

Bananarama

6c+

13 m

 

Banana split

5b

13 m

 

Dimnik

4c

15 m

 

Piki

4b

15 m

 

Ara

4c

17 m

 

Aro

6a+

17 m

 

Kačka

6b

18 m

 

Modri dirkač

6b

18 m

 

Kačji pastir

6a+

15 m

 

Kinder maher

5c

15 m

 

Končni prijem

5b

15 m

 

Opita

5c

12 m

 

Zabita

5c

11 m

 

Pussy cat

5b

11 m

 

Raček

4c

10 m

 

Desni raček

5a

9 m

 

Goska

4b

9 m

 

Varianta Račke

4a

6 m

 

Račka

3

5 m

 

Putka

3

5 m

 

Kravca

2

6 m

 

Zajček

4a

6 m

 

Punčka

3

6 m

 

Fantek

3

5 m

 

N – TRI VOTLINE

Varianta 80

4b

25 m

 

Smer 80

4c

25 m

 

Viskolit

5a

25 m

 

Trmoglavka

5c

28 m

 

???

P

8 m

 

Janjina zgodba

6c+

24 m

 

Gamsja

5a

35 m

*

Mimo votline

4b

35 m

*

Jožek

6a

22 m

 

Sammy Jojo

7b

22 m

 

???

P

22 m

 

Rajcing team

7a

12 m

 

Kiko

4c

9 m

 

Špina

5a

9 m

 

Hrestač

5a

9 m

 

Sladki greh

5b

9 m

 

???

P

9 m

 

Drdra

5c

8 m

 

O – TRIPTIH

Vili

2

8 m

 

Kasandra

5b

14 m

 

Ogledalce

5c

14 m

 

Stričeva

4b

12 m

 

Milka

6c

12 m

 

Trava Sv. Lucije

6c+

12 m

 

Flok

7a

12 m

 

Flik

6a

12 m

 

Flak

6a+

12 m

 

???

???

? m

 

Zajeda Triptih

6a

22 m

*

Variola Vera

6a+

22 m

 

Srednji Triptih

6a

22 m

 

Desni Triptih

6a

22 m

*

Varianta Triptih

5b

23 m

*

Albino Vidoni

6b+

20 m

 

Črni Peter

6b

20 m

 

Red bull

5c

17 m

 

Lastovka

5a

12 m

 

Tička

5b

12 m

 

Strela

4c

22 m

 

Grom

5a

22 m

 

Lizika

2

6 m

 

Bonbonček

2

6 m

 

P – PRINCESKA

Princeska

4a

25 m

 

Mala lepotička

4a

25 m

 

Butalska TRAD

4c

50 m

 

R – ZADNJE PLOŠČE

Zobobol

6a

20 m ?

 

Kalodont

5a

20 m ?

 

Kokošja juhica TRAD

The route is originally a multipitch, starting under Joker.

4a

50 m ?

 

Joker

7a

8 m

 

Jolly

6b

6 m

 

?

?

? m

 

?

?

? m

 

?

?

? m

 

?

?

? m

 

?

?

? m

 

Batman

5c

15 m

 

Velika zajeda TRAD !?!

5c

30 m

 

Feniks

7c

30 m

 

Slonček

6a

30 m

*

Samantha

6c+

25 m

 

Sabrina

6b+

25 m

 

Dolga TRAD !?!

4c

45 m

 

Hribovska TRAD !?!

4a

30 m

 

Kamnoseška TRAD !?!

5c

35 m

 

Hot dog

6b+

25 m

 

Kaminska TRAD !?!

4c

40 m

 

Hippy Dippy

7c+

20 m

 

?

P

20 m

 

?

P

20 m

 

Kot

6a

20 m

 

?

?

20 m

 

Sončnice

6c+

30 m

 

Sonce v očeh

6b

30 m

 

Sol Sol

5c

30 m

*

Sunshine reaggae

6b

35 m

*

O sole mio

6c

35 m

 

Direktor Šubar

6c

30 m

 

Delovska sobota

6a

30 m

 

Radnička

6c

30 m

 

Proletarska

5a

30 m