VIPAVA
Vipava is actually a collection of crags, spread along the slopes of Nanos above the picturesque and always-in-spring Vipava valley. It is a very diverse mixture, from exemplary maintained crags for complete beginners and advanced climbers, to unclear and not so well maintained sectors with shitty rock, and in-between long (un)bolted multipitches, which often go to the very top of the plateau. Usually you will pick 1-3 sectors and spend a nice climbing day there – especially for beginners Vipava has huge potential and you will always find something new. The better you are, the more likely you will just drive a bit further to Vipavska Bela.
The motorway, which splits under Nanos at Razdrto towards Nova Gorica, will lead you to Vipava through a series of tunnels. Here follow the main road left towards center and soon after, turn right for Gradišče and then drive along the narrow road through the settlement towards kamp Tura. At your right you will see lots of playing fields and a bar, where you park your car. From parking go left uphill, towards nicely visible crags. For sectors B-E stick to the left and right for the others. In each case you will reach a scree slope, where the paths wind up to the sectors. Under the slope there is a map of sectors and here the main walking path turns right. Follow it for sectors L-R or go straight for sectors F-K. For more info use the map in this guidebook or the very useful signposts, which mark all the paths along the way.
For sector A – Stari grad you have to use a bit different approach. It’s best to park in the center of Vipava at Main square and go on foot, first left and then to the right in a side alley, which leads uphill towards a group of houses on top. Theoretically you can get there by car too, but the streets are narrow, parking spaces few and it will only save you a minute or two. Behind the last house on the left you will find a path leading you right. Follow it and be mindful about a small path on the left, once you see the crag there. The wall may be closed occassionally due to birds nesting.
WAY TO THE CRAG The approach varies from short and nice to long and sometimes even a bit dangerous. And everything in between. For example, you’ll suffer much more to get to sector F than sector O.
There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.
BEST SEASON Spring and autumn are always great, if only the wall is not wet. Summer can be quickly too hot. In the winter wait for a nice sunny day (possibly without bora wind).
SUN & SHADE Most crags face SW and are in sunny exposition. In the summer, the wall is in shade in the morning and in the afternoon in sector A. You can also catch some climbing in right sectors and in the part of sector J, which faces north.
RAIN Rain will affect almost all routes (except for sector F), but the walls dry quickly, especially if bora wind is blowing. In the winter this can be a problem. Most shelter can be found in sectors on the right side, from L – R.
STYLE & ROUTES Routes are mostly vertical with occasional small roof and usually you will rely on technique and finger power – and many times also on your body height. Only the sector F has endurance pieces on a slight overhang. Of course, there are boulder cruxes now and then – sometimes even in the easier routes. The grades can be a bit local and even feel quite hard. The multipitches are another story.
GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid limestone in different forms and colors. The more a sector is beginner friendly (such as A-E or M-O), the better the rock is, although it can be a bit polished sometimes. In those sectors the routes have also been nicely rebolted along with new anchors. You will often have to re-tie at the top. But there are also routes, where you can see from the ground, that they can be crumbly and badly equipped. The gear depends on the chosen sector. You can climb with a couple of quickdraws and 40-meter rope, but some other times you need many, many more. The multipitches are another story.
KIDS & COMFORT If we disregard the often long approaches (which are not too demanding), some sectors are very comfortable, with benches and large plateaus and are also kids-friendly (B,C,D,M,R). But there are also sectors, which you approach with a wild via ferratta (H) or have a base unsuitable/unsafe for children (J,K,L). The multipitches are another story.
BEGINNERS Vipava is an ideal crag for beginners, as you can find a couple of routes almost everywhere, with whole sectors full of them: B, C, M, O and also J and K for the more mountaineering-types. Even for kids there are groups of short routes in sectors M, N and J (Teletubbies). Then there are multipitches in sectors E and G, which are perfect for the first experience with longer routes. 5/5
ADVANCED A bit harder routes are scattered all over Vipava. Larger groups are found in sectors A, D, M, N and R. And of course in sector F, which is in itself worth a visit and even has overhangs. 4/5
THE BEST There are no hard routes here. Try Fanatik 7c+ (sector M) or Hippy Dippy 7c+ (sector R) or just go to Vipavska Bela. 1/5
DRYTOOLING Below the path at the water reservoir there is also a nice, small drytool area Pod Škol with grades from D3 to D6+.
MULTIPITCHES Some of the multipitches are part of sport climbing sectors e.g. E, F, H and especially popular sector G – Steber. They are bolted, of course a bit further apart, but with some slings or nuts they are perfect for beginners. Then there are trad routes, which are not equipped, and are more or less easy. Climb them only with adequate knowledge and someone who knows what he’s doing. Along Vipava valley there are many such routes (especially around Ajdovščina), but in the guidebook we included informative topos only for the ones close to the crag. In summer, climbing is not recommended due to thick vegetation.
NOTES The scene in Vipava is among the most lively in Slovenia. In autumn there is a boulder-themed Vipavski Vjlb and in spring there is climbing weekend Tura. Ajdovščina and Vipava climbing clubs maintain many walking and climbing paths, like Gradiška Tura, which passes through the crag and has the famous panoramic bridge, as well as many others in vicinity. More information about those can be found at:
www.gradisce.slog.net, www.ao-ajdovscina.si and www.plezanje.net.
WARNING Vipava is one of the most exemplary crags in Slovenia if we consider the pressure from visitors, cooperation with municipality and nature protectors and general maintenance. Still, there can be occasional closures of some sectors due to birds nesting. You should seriously respect any limitations that are applied. We also omitted one harder sector on Nanos, because it is not maintained properly. Also, do not bolt any new routes without first consulting the local climbing club, which takes care for this area. The guidebook also has a short overview of longer trad multipitch routes that are scattered all over the slopes, and continue on the nearby Velika Drča and on other walls in vicinity.
A – STARI GRAD |
|||
Tik |
6b |
20 m |
|
Tak |
6b |
20 m |
|
Noro leto |
6b+ |
22 m |
|
Smer brvincev |
6b+ |
22 m |
|
Top gun |
7a+ |
22 m |
|
Maruška |
7a+ |
22 m |
|
Centralna smer |
5c |
22 m |
|
Direktna smer |
5b |
22 m |
|
Tsunami |
5c |
22 m |
|
Lahka |
3 |
20 m |
|
Ferdi |
5b |
20 m |
|
B – MALA PLOŠČA |
|||
Ipsilon |
4a |
10 m |
|
Alfa |
4a |
10 m |
|
Beta |
6a |
10 m |
|
Gama |
5c |
10 m |
* |
Delta |
5c |
10 m |
* |
Eta |
5b |
10 m |
* |
Omega |
4a |
10 m |
|
C – LEVA PLOŠČA |
|||
Tomo Vinkovič |
4b |
15 m |
|
Jambo |
4b |
18 m |
|
Jumbo |
4b |
20 m |
|
Leva smer |
4b |
25 m |
|
Naredi sam |
6c+ |
20 m |
|
Zelena dolina |
6b |
20 m |
|
Centralna smer levo |
5c |
20 m |
|
Centralna smer desno |
6a+ |
20 m |
|
Desna |
4c |
22 m |
|
Orko šporko |
6a |
15 m |
|
Oštrigeca |
6a |
15 m |
|
Čota balota |
5c |
15 m |
|
Čota |
5a |
13 m |
|
Ponev |
6a |
10 m |
|
Kozica |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Piko |
3 |
10 m |
|
Pika |
3 |
10 m |
|
Piki |
4a |
10 m |
|
Luknja |
6b |
20 m |
|
Strupenjača |
6c+ |
8 m |
|
Klopotača |
6c |
8 m |
|
Boa |
5c |
8 m |
|
??? !!! |
? |
20 m |
|
D – TONAČEV PREVIS |
|||
Kanta |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Iztokova |
7b |
12 m |
|
Ludwig |
6c+ |
15 m |
|
Tonačev previs |
6b+ |
15 m |
|
Čarobna piščal |
7a+ |
10 m |
|
Jutranja varianta |
5a |
12 m |
|
Smer malega kamina |
4b |
20 m |
|
Uš |
5a |
18 m |
|
Hillary |
6a+ |
18 m |
|
To ni bla Metka |
6a |
18 m |
|
E- SIVA PLOŠČA |
|||
MS mp |
4a, 5b |
60 m |
* |
Siva mp |
4a, 6a+ |
60 m |
* |
Rubikon mp |
4a, 6c+ |
60 m |
* |
Like a virgin mp |
4a, 7b |
60 m |
|
??? |
P |
35 m |
|
Papagaya |
6b+ |
35 m |
|
Gregorjeva smer |
5c |
35 m |
|
Think blue |
6a |
20 m |
|
Think red |
6b+ |
20 m |
|
Think pink |
7a+ |
20 m |
|
Štirje levi |
5a |
15 m |
|
Tri mačke |
5a |
15 m |
|
F- RUMENA PLOŠČA |
|||
Apolon |
5b |
12 m |
|
Čmrljev let |
5c |
12 m |
|
Plavček |
5c |
12 m |
|
Belka |
5a |
15 m |
|
Dan potem |
6c+ |
32 m |
|
Zebra |
4b |
35 m |
|
V soju zvezd |
7c |
28 m |
|
Nekega lepega dne |
7a+ |
35 m |
|
Špelca marelca |
7a |
25 m |
|
Varianta Citrončka |
6a+ |
25 m |
|
Citronček |
6a |
25 m |
* |
Vipavski steber |
5c |
25 m |
|
Vipavski steber 2.del |
6c+ |
35 m |
|
Maruška potepuška |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Življenje je lepo |
7b |
22 m |
* |
V svetu senzacij |
7a |
26 m |
* |
Absolutno mega |
7a+ |
26 m |
* |
Diagonalka |
6a+ |
30 m |
|
Diagonalka 2. del |
5b |
45 m |
|
Varianta diagonalke |
6a+ |
27 m |
|
Maruška potepuška |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Življenje je lepo |
7b |
22 m |
|
V svetu senzacij |
7a |
26 m |
|
Absolutno mega |
7a+ |
26 m |
|
Diagonalka |
6a+ |
30 m |
|
Diagonalka 2. del |
5b |
45 m |
|
Varianta diagonalke |
6a+ |
27 m |
|
V vetru rdečih zastav |
6c |
22 m |
|
Vroča linija |
6c+ |
22 m |
* |
Orgazem (Uturi) |
6c+ |
22 m |
|
Orgazem 2. del |
6a |
35 m |
|
Črna luknja |
6c |
35 m |
|
Čokolino |
5b |
21 m |
* |
Čokolino 2. del |
7a |
35 m |
|
Čokotela |
5c |
33 m |
|
Vroča linija |
6c+ |
22 m |
* |
Rumena |
5b |
22 m |
* |
Rumena 2. del |
5b |
35 m |
|
Rolada |
6b |
32 m |
|
Kremšnita |
6b |
25 m |
* |
Šamrola |
7a |
25 m |
|
Rogljič |
7c |
25 m |
|
Štrudl |
6c+ |
18 m |
|
Gorila Magila |
7a+ |
18 m |
|
Nana mala opica |
7b+ |
18 m |
|
G- STEBER |
|||
Skriti raz MP |
5b, 4c |
90 m |
|
Raz stebra MP |
4a, 5c, 4a |
90 m |
|
Vipavska sapca MP |
6a, 7a+, 7a+, 6a+, 4a |
100 m |
|
Jubilejna MP |
3, 6c+, 6b, 4a |
95 m |
|
Ciklamen MP |
3, 5c, 5b, 4a |
95 m |
* |
Steber MP |
4a, 4c, 3, 4a |
95 m |
** |
Skrivnosti narave trad |
5a, 5a |
85 m |
|
Vrnitev v večnost MP |
6b+, 6a+, 5b |
95 m |
|
Poročna trad |
6b, 5a |
70 m |
|
Prvomajska trad |
IV / V |
120 m |
|
Tu in tam trad |
IV+ / III |
140 m |
|
Sex na eks trad |
4c / IV, III |
120 m |
|
Jesenska trad |
IV |
110 m |
|
H- TRIKOT |
|||
Perla |
6c+ |
25 m |
|
Selekcija |
6a+ |
25 m |
* |
Kakadu |
P |
25 m |
|
Kakadu MP |
A0, 6a |
60 m |
|
Kazino |
6a |
+15 m |
|
Maria Bella |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Trikot |
4c |
35 m |
|
Trikot 2.del |
4b |
+25 m |
|
Ruleta |
5a |
+25 m |
|
??? |
P |
+25 m |
|
Via Ina |
7b+ |
25 m |
|
I – MALI OLTAR |
|||
Husky |
5b |
12 m |
|
Logo |
5a |
12 m |
|
Palček Smuk |
4b |
12 m |
|
J – OLTAR |
|||
Noname |
4b |
10 m |
|
Fantazija |
6b |
10 m |
|
Tira mi su |
6c+ |
12 m |
|
Mačo Mačon |
6c+ |
12 m |
|
Fanta |
5c |
12 m |
|
Fatamorgana |
6a+ |
15 m |
|
Slika |
5b |
15 m |
|
Lahka |
4a |
27 m |
|
Severna |
4c |
35 m |
|
Prečenje trad |
4b |
40 m |
|
Zahodna |
4b |
45 m |
|
Botrova |
5a |
45 m |
|
Mombasa |
6b+ |
20 m |
|
Tečajniška trad |
3 |
40 m |
|
Leva smer |
4a |
25 m |
|
Klasična |
5a |
35 m |
* |
Britev com |
6a |
35 m |
|
Crazy horse |
6a |
25 m |
|
Zadnja šansa |
6a |
35 m |
* |
Počena |
5c |
35 m |
|
Desna smer |
5b |
35 m |
|
Tinky Winky |
2 |
6 m |
|
Dipsy |
2 |
6 m |
|
Lili |
2 |
5 m |
|
Po |
2 |
5 m |
|
K – LUSKA |
|||
Dvojna zajeda |
4b |
15m |
|
Leteča baterija |
5b |
15 m |
|
Varianta dvojne zajede |
5a |
15 m |
|
Mačji kašelj |
6a+ |
15 m |
|
Zgornja dvojna zajeda |
5b |
45 m |
|
Mama buči |
5c |
45 m |
|
Varianta fantovske |
6a+ |
45 m |
|
Luska |
5b |
45 m |
* |
Fantovska |
5c |
45 m |
|
Prijateljska !!! |
4c |
35 m |
|
Troboj trad |
7a |
40 m |
|
L – GORNJA POT |
|||
Kazačok |
6c |
23 m |
|
Netopir |
4c |
14 m |
|
Pocinkana |
5c |
14 m |
|
Camel tropic |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Ole Ole |
7b+ |
13 m |
|
Varianta Ole |
6b+ |
13 m |
|
UCLA |
5a |
13 m |
|
M – PIKAPOLONICA |
|||
Martin Krpan |
5c |
12 m |
|
Astor |
5a |
12 m |
|
Šiška |
5a |
25 m |
|
Škorpijon |
4c |
25 m |
|
Pajek |
4c |
25 m |
|
Easy |
3 |
18 m |
|
Miniatura |
4b |
18 m |
|
Lili |
6a |
18 m |
|
Mona Liza |
6c+ |
18 m |
|
Desiree |
7b |
18 m |
|
Oda norosti |
7a+ |
18 m |
|
Črna Liza |
6b |
18 m |
* |
Kakao |
6c+ |
16 m |
|
Slow |
5b |
15 m |
|
Seva |
4c |
14 m |
|
Pašnik |
3 |
17 m |
|
Vrtiček |
4a |
17 m |
|
Balkon |
5a |
17 m |
|
Platka |
4c |
12 m |
* |
Pišuka |
6a+ |
12 m |
|
Pol teč pol meš |
5c |
12 m |
|
Kačja slina |
5b |
15 m |
|
Pomladanska smer |
5a |
15 m |
* |
Odbita |
5b |
14 m |
* |
Raz |
6a |
15 m |
|
Varianta raza |
6a |
15 m |
|
Sodoma |
6b |
16 m |
* |
Gomora |
6c |
16 m |
|
Fanatik |
7c+ |
13 m |
|
Pikapolonica |
6a |
13 m |
* |
Bananarama |
6c+ |
13 m |
|
Banana split |
5b |
13 m |
|
Dimnik |
4c |
15 m |
|
Piki |
4b |
15 m |
|
Ara |
4c |
17 m |
|
Aro |
6a+ |
17 m |
|
Kačka |
6b |
18 m |
|
Modri dirkač |
6b |
18 m |
|
Kačji pastir |
6a+ |
15 m |
|
Kinder maher |
5c |
15 m |
|
Končni prijem |
5b |
15 m |
|
Opita |
5c |
12 m |
|
Zabita |
5c |
11 m |
|
Pussy cat |
5b |
11 m |
|
Raček |
4c |
10 m |
|
Desni raček |
5a |
9 m |
|
Goska |
4b |
9 m |
|
Varianta Račke |
4a |
6 m |
|
Račka |
3 |
5 m |
|
Putka |
3 |
5 m |
|
Kravca |
2 |
6 m |
|
Zajček |
4a |
6 m |
|
Punčka |
3 |
6 m |
|
Fantek |
3 |
5 m |
|
N – TRI VOTLINE |
|||
Varianta 80 |
4b |
25 m |
|
Smer 80 |
4c |
25 m |
|
Viskolit |
5a |
25 m |
|
Trmoglavka |
5c |
28 m |
|
??? |
P |
8 m |
|
Janjina zgodba |
6c+ |
24 m |
|
Gamsja |
5a |
35 m |
* |
Mimo votline |
4b |
35 m |
* |
Jožek |
6a |
22 m |
|
Sammy Jojo |
7b |
22 m |
|
??? |
P |
22 m |
|
Rajcing team |
7a |
12 m |
|
Kiko |
4c |
9 m |
|
Špina |
5a |
9 m |
|
Hrestač |
5a |
9 m |
|
Sladki greh |
5b |
9 m |
|
??? |
P |
9 m |
|
Drdra |
5c |
8 m |
|
O – TRIPTIH |
|||
Vili |
2 |
8 m |
|
Kasandra |
5b |
14 m |
|
Ogledalce |
5c |
14 m |
|
Stričeva |
4b |
12 m |
|
Milka |
6c |
12 m |
|
Trava Sv. Lucije |
6c+ |
12 m |
|
Flok |
7a |
12 m |
|
Flik |
6a |
12 m |
|
Flak |
6a+ |
12 m |
|
??? |
??? |
? m |
|
Zajeda Triptih |
6a |
22 m |
* |
Variola Vera |
6a+ |
22 m |
|
Srednji Triptih |
6a |
22 m |
|
Desni Triptih |
6a |
22 m |
* |
Varianta Triptih |
5b |
23 m |
* |
Albino Vidoni |
6b+ |
20 m |
|
Črni Peter |
6b |
20 m |
|
Red bull |
5c |
17 m |
|
Lastovka |
5a |
12 m |
|
Tička |
5b |
12 m |
|
Strela |
4c |
22 m |
|
Grom |
5a |
22 m |
|
Lizika |
2 |
6 m |
|
Bonbonček |
2 |
6 m |
|
P – PRINCESKA |
|||
Princeska |
4a |
25 m |
|
Mala lepotička |
4a |
25 m |
|
Butalska TRAD |
4c |
50 m |
|
R – ZADNJE PLOŠČE |
|||
Zobobol |
6a |
20 m ? |
|
Kalodont |
5a |
20 m ? |
|
Kokošja juhica TRAD The route is originally a multipitch, starting under Joker. |
4a |
50 m ? |
|
Joker |
7a |
8 m |
|
Jolly |
6b |
6 m |
|
? |
? |
? m |
|
? |
? |
? m |
|
? |
? |
? m |
|
? |
? |
? m |
|
? |
? |
? m |
|
Batman |
5c |
15 m |
|
Velika zajeda TRAD !?! |
5c |
30 m |
|
Feniks |
7c |
30 m |
|
Slonček |
6a |
30 m |
* |
Samantha |
6c+ |
25 m |
|
Sabrina |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Dolga TRAD !?! |
4c |
45 m |
|
Hribovska TRAD !?! |
4a |
30 m |
|
Kamnoseška TRAD !?! |
5c |
35 m |
|
Hot dog |
6b+ |
25 m |
|
Kaminska TRAD !?! |
4c |
40 m |
|
Hippy Dippy |
7c+ |
20 m |
|
? |
P |
20 m |
|
? |
P |
20 m |
|
Kot |
6a |
20 m |
|
? |
? |
20 m |
|
Sončnice |
6c+ |
30 m |
|
Sonce v očeh |
6b |
30 m |
|
Sol Sol |
5c |
30 m |
* |
Sunshine reaggae |
6b |
35 m |
* |
O sole mio |
6c |
35 m |
|
Direktor Šubar |
6c |
30 m |
|
Delovska sobota |
6a |
30 m |
|
Radnička |
6c |
30 m |
|
Proletarska |
5a |
30 m |
|