AURISINA

Aurisina is an old-new crag along the coastal road. Already in 1985 Iesu, Pezzolato and Varnerin bolted a few routes here, but it took 30 years that they were re-equipped by Zorzi and Frezzolini, who added a couple more. This is an interesting and fresh crag with another great view in southern exposition sheltered from the wind for a not too strenuous climbing day.
For starters, look at the big map for Santa Croce. This time too it‘s best to drive on the A4/E70 highway from direction of Trieste to the exit of Sistiana. Make the turn and catch the right split for Aurisina. Go left at the main road and drive straight for some time. Ignore the turn for highway and immediately after that, before the railway bridge, turn right. This road will lead you to industrial zone, where you stick to the right and at the end park beside the road. Be mindful of the signs that forbid parking, as this space is also used by trucks that roam on this streets. At the end of industrial zone the path leads right, over dirt road and through the woods to the viewpoint at the edge. Turn left here and follow the path for about 10 minutes, until you reach a clearing and the path goes downward a bit. Be mindful here for a right turn, sometimes marked by a small stoneman. This will lead you to the last route in sector Est.
WAY TO THE CRAG More or less you follow a straight path on the edge of the wall and then proceed down the hill.

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.
We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:
BEST SEASON As goes for all the coastal walls, the best day for climbing is winter – of course if the sky is clear.
Otherwise the most stable conditions are in spring and autumn. Since the wall faces south, summer is absolutely too hot.
SUN & SHADE You’re most likely to get some shade in the morning.
RAIN Rain is a perfect opportunity to get soaking wet in any route. So, no.
STYLE & ROUTES Routes are more or less vertical and the harder ones are pretty smooth, so you need good technique, great footwork and strong fingers. The easy routes are very pleasant though. You can even find an odd overhang or tufa. Both sectors have a bunch of easy routes on the right, but don‘t underestimate the others, especially 7s.
GEAR & SAFETY The gear is new, the rock is fresh, sharp and fairly compact. It can crumble only on the sides and on the top.
KIDS & COMFORT The approach is not too horrible, the space under the wall is also mostly OK. The situation is not ideal for the kids, but it‘s acceptable.
BEGINNERS Two groups of easy routes, which aren’t bad at all, will suffice for a couple of visits here. 2/5
ADVANCED Harder routes are longer and more interesting, but more than continuous they are characterized by cruxes. For climbers, who can focus at the right moment. 3/5
THE BEST If you stumbled into Aurisina by chance, just enjoy the view and help those weaker than you, when they are stopped at the crux. 1/5
OVEST |
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Territorial pissing |
7a |
20 m |
|
Hot staff |
7a+ |
20 m |
* |
Manimal |
6c+ |
20 m |
|
Di sana pianta |
7a |
20 m |
* |
Kalakili |
6b+ |
20 m |
* |
??? |
P |
20 m |
|
Coppia d’assi |
7b |
20 m |
|
Pan e circe |
7a |
20 m |
|
Marinata di Salvia |
6c |
20 m |
|
Mens sana easy |
6b |
20 m |
|
Mens sana |
7a |
20 m |
|
Equilibrio Tagliente |
7c |
20 m |
|
Analfabeta |
6c |
15 m |
|
Bestia |
5a |
10 m |
* |
Midwest pig |
5b |
10 m |
|
In savate e capel |
5c |
10 m |
|
Cengia dei Dedi |
6b |
? m |
|
Slalom |
5c |
10 m |
* |
Mr. X |
6a |
10 m |
|
Lestofante |
5b |
10 m |
* |
EST |
|||
Vespa 50 |
5b |
10 m |
|
La moto morini |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Merengue |
6b |
15 m |
|
United sforz |
7c+ |
15 m |
|
Acqua tonica A |
7a |
20 m |
|
Acqua tonica B |
6c |
20 m |
* |
Custozzer |
6c+ |
25 m |
* |
Tre Man |
6c |
25 m |
|
Morpheus |
7a+ |
15 m |
|
Bossanova |
7b |
15 m |
|
Horse Pass |
6c |
15 m |
|
Dolmen |
6a |
15 m |
|
Gioca |
5c |
15 m |
* |
Bloccabajo’ |
6c |
15 m |
|
Julka |
5c |
10 m |
|
Polka A |
6b |
10 m |
|
Polka B |
6a |
10 m |
|
Supernik |
4a |
7 m |
|