COSTIERA

Costiera is full of old patina – there are some rusty bolts, strange anchors and routes that cross each other and zigzag on the wall, and often earn their grade in a nasty or polished crux. But Costiera redeems itself with scenic location above the sea (which you can reach via a steep path), with tranquility and some sense of adventure. This is not a big climbing anthill, although it offers many routes of all grades, among which many beauties are hidden.
Costiera lies under the coastal road between Trieste and Sistiana. You get there the easiest by following the motorway A4, on which you take the exit Sistiana and stay on the left side (sign for Costiera). Driving along the road above the coast you will get to a tunnel with a scenic spot and parking – a couple of cars fit on both sides of the tunnel. For new sector cross the railing at the end of the rest spot and descend on a steep way down. For the old sector cross the railing on the other side of the tunnel and follow feratta towards the wall. Look at the photo for the spot where you go down and the bigger map at the Santa Croce crag for general orientation.
WAY TO THE CRAG The path isn’t long but it’s quite demanding, in both cases you use a steep ferratta to go down.

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.
We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:
BEST SEASON Costiera is a winter crag. Closeness of the sea can bring freshness, which is nice in the spring and autumn, when a too hot sunny day can be uncomfortable. In the summer it is simply too hot, so instead of going to the crag, continue towards the sea and save yourself a heart attack. Mind the sea urchins.
SUN & SHADE Since the wall has many corners, you will always find some shade, but the route selection will be small. If you seek shade, it’s best to visit the crag in the morning.
RAIN Costiera is not too rain-proof, but it still has enough overhangs, that you can climb some shorter routes even if there’s a light sprinkle.
STYLE & ROUTES Be a little conservative and try a grade or two below your level – at least at the beginning. The routes are mostly vertical with an ocassional overhang, often polished and at times quite cruxy – either they had really hard grades back then or the passing of time made them harder. The cruxes are a combo of technical climbing and power, with a few tufas to spice things up. A general rule is that vertical and easier grades can be quite stiff, while the harder and more overhanging routes tend to be a bit soft.
GEAR & SAFETY The rock is solid. But it can be polished. The bolts are generally nice, even re-equiped recently, though there are some old ones. Most routes are short and the long ones usually have an anchor in the middle. So if you can re-tie your knot, you should be fine with a shorter rope, but take at least 14 quickdraws.
KIDS & COMFORT There are some comfortable plateaus at the base, but the approach itself is not advisable for the toddlers and feeble people. Some beginnings of routes can be a bit psychotic.
BEGINNERS For a couple of visits, you can find quite nice routes, the easy ones in Nuova Costiera and around the corner in the middle of the crag. 2/5
ADVANCED Costiera is foremost a crag for advanced climbers. If you are willing to accept, that you may have some unexpected problems, you will enjoy in a colorful and historic selection of the routes. 5/5
THE BEST There are not many hard routes, and even those are either soft (more on the left) or quite hard (more on the right). At least try the classic Colibri. 2/5
NOTES Don‘t leave valuables in the car – there have been some reported thefts. And watch out when you drive back on the road. The path to the beach leads by some “private” properties.
COSTIERA NUOVA |
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Senza nome 1 |
6a |
14 m |
|
Senza nome 2 |
6a |
14 m |
|
L’ingegner |
6a |
15 m |
* |
Elisir d’equilibrio |
7a |
15 m |
|
Senza nome 3 |
6a+ |
15 m |
|
Senza nome 4 COM |
6a |
18 m |
|
Il custode della terra |
6b |
20 m |
|
Placca del Lorenzo |
7a+ |
20 m |
|
Per intenditori |
7a |
20 m |
|
Altri tempi |
5c |
10 m |
** |
Xocen |
5b |
10 m |
|
COSTIERA |
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Papillon |
5b |
17 m |
|
Papillon do vrha ext |
6b+ |
35 m |
|
Tropical ext |
7c |
35 m |
|
Wovie Zowie ext |
7b+ |
35 m |
* |
Armadillo brillo |
6b |
35 m |
|
Jango |
6c |
18 m |
* |
Meglio di niente |
7c |
18 m |
|
Shadow |
7b |
18 m |
|
La mela |
6c |
15 m |
* |
Santa Esmeralda |
8a |
15 m |
* |
Cocomo |
8a |
15 m |
* |
Pensiero positivo |
7c |
16 m |
* |
Romantico scoglio |
6b+ |
20 m |
* |
Romantico scoglio 2. del ext |
6b+ |
40 m |
* |
Variante Aldin ext |
6b+ |
40 m |
|
??? |
P |
40 m |
|
Macedonia |
4c |
16 m |
|
Macedonia do vrha ext |
7b |
40 m |
|
Liquerizia |
6b+ |
25 m |
* |
Gelati |
6b+ |
25 m |
* |
Gelati 2. del ext |
6c |
45 m |
* |
C’est plus facile ext |
7a |
45 m |
|
Mister Fantasy ext |
7b+ |
40 m |
|
Settimo cielo |
6c+ |
25 m |
* |
Settimo cielo 2. del ext |
7a+ |
30 m |
|
Rambo |
7a+ |
25 m |
* |
Rambo 2. del ext |
7c |
30 m |
|
Kura |
7c+ |
27 m |
* |
Colibrì |
8a+ |
20 m |
|
Piperita Patty |
6c+ |
20 m |
|
Piperita Patty 2. del ext |
7a+ |
27 m |
* |
Maga magò |
6c |
27 m |
* |
Kren caramel |
6c |
25 m |
|
House party |
7c+ |
20 m |
|
Jon Jon |
6c+ |
20 m |
|
Burattinaio pazzo |
6b |
20 m |
* |
Topo Gigio |
5c |
25 m |
* |
Gabriella tutta panna |
6a |
25 m |
|
Finferlucchere |
5c |
40 m |
* |
Survival |
6b |
40 m |
|
Hass Fidanken |
6c |
18 m |
|
Hass Fidanken 2.del ext |
7a |
40 m |
|
Tramezzino ext |
6c |
40 m |
|
Coca cola kid |
7c |
15 m |
|
Pallido inverno |
7b |
15 m |
* |
Exodus ¶ |
7b+ |
18 m |
|
Exodus 2. del high |
6b+ |
35 m |
|
Ultimo tango |
P |
35 m |
|
Bela Lugosi |
6c+ |
25 m |
|
Bela Lugosi 2. del ext |
7a+ |
35 m |
* |
Doris |
8a+ |
35 m |
|
Minami |
7b |
22 m |
|
Gratton pour homme ext |
P |
35 m |
|
Faccia a faccia con sé stessi |
7b+ |
12 m |
|
Pasticcini |
6b |
30 m |
|
Pasticcini 2. del ext |
7a+ |
40 m |
|
Comici |
6a |
25 m |
|
Comici 2.del ext |
6b |
40 m |
* |
Variante centrale ext |
6b |
40 m |
|