DOBERDO

Even though is lies far from Trieste, Doberdo is just too cute climbing place to be skipped. The crag is below the lookout of Casa Cadorna, which was built in the time of Isonzo front during World War I. It is an exemplary equipped place (which has been recently rebolted by Carlo Gasperini), with beautiful, continuous routes and a fantastic view over the natural reserve of Doberdo lake. For those reasons, on a nice day, it may get quite crowded.

If you are coming from Trieste, follow the local road through Duino and turn right to SS55 towards Gorizia (when you see a statue of two wolves on your left). Drive on this road through Iamiano and continue on the road surrounded with cypresses. Be mindful for a left turn for Doberdo. Turn here and wait for a cluster of signs and a small path uphill on the right. Park here on the left side of the road and  start pumping up the hill.

Main sector is under the cabin, which is peeking out of the forest, but some short routes lie behind the building among the war tunnels.  The road SS55 takes you to Gorizia, while the local road takes you to Doberdo.

WAY TO THE CRAG Steep path uphill will warm you up just right. But be careful when it’s wet!

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Doberdob

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Doberdob 45.834339, 13.562772

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI 

OCIZLA HOSTEL 

BEST SEASON Exposition to the south means that summer is not an option. Rest of the months climbing can be great, it can only get a bit cold in the winter.

SUN & SHADE The base is shaded nicely by trees, while you can also catch some shade in the morning.

RAIN Rain means bad news for climbing here. The wall is already polished and with rain, despite occasional roof, everything gets even harder.

STYLE & ROUTES Routes are continuous and vertical with an occasional bulge. Climbing requires endurance, while the harder routes tend to be more technical. Most routes are polished, but it is surprisingly not too troubling. Beginners will enjoy here the most.

GEAR & SAFETY The routes are up to 20 meters long and quite generously bolted, with top notch anchors and glue-in bolts. The rock is solid, but it can crumble at places.

KIDS & COMFORT Except for a bit of effort at approach, the base of the wall is comfortable, but fills quickly if it‘s crowded. The crag is popular with families and climbing courses.

Warning: Don‘t leave valuables in the car!

BEGINNERS Great, perfectly bolted routes and a big selection of them is ideal for beginners and first steps at climbing on lead. 4/5

ADVANCED Sometimes a route can have a nasty crux in the middle – if you climb it straight enough. 2/5

THE BEST  Sorry, but you’ve come to the wrong crag. 1/5

NOTES Take time for a trip: ascend Gradina from Doberdo (with a nice weekend museum), or stroll around in the natural reserve. Maybe you can spot a wild cat or golden jackal, horned viper or a rare bird. The Isonzo front between Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy was one of the bloodiest in World War I. Most fighters were Slovenes and at Doberdo one of the hardest battles was fought, 12 days of constant fighting against 10 times larger opponent. From that, comes a famous song Doberdo, the grave of Slovenian youth. There are topos for Doberdo with many additional routes, but these are, since the crag was re-equipped with glue-in bolts, only local top rope variants. There are some old routes also to the right of the main wall, but they would have to be re-equipped first. There used to be even an 8a here – let‘s hope the routes are bolted again soon.

DOBERDO MAIN

La fessura

4b

10 m

 

Lo spigolo

5c

15 m

 

La bianca

5b

15 m

*

Bianchetta

5a

15 m

 

Via facile

3

15 m

 

Diedrino

4a

15 m

 

Olà

6a

18 m

 

La Gialla

5a

18 m

*

Variante uscita gialla

5b

18 m

 

Ali

6c+

6 m

 

Diedro grigio

4a

18 m

 

Diedro giallo

4a

18 m

 

Mamma mia

7a

18 m

 

T.N.T.

7b

18 m

 

Bubu

6a

20 m

 

Le nicchie

5b

20 m

 

Tettuccio

5c

20 m

 

Mah

7b

20 m

 

Salsa

6b+

20 m

*

Via nuova

4c

20 m

 

Abo

6a+

10 m

*

Sara

7b

10 m

 

Yoghi top

6b

10 m

 

Hops!

6a

10 m

 

Patata

5a

10 m

 

TUNNELS

Senza nome I

4c

9 m

 

Senza nome II

4c

9 m

 

Senza nome III

4c

9 m

 

Frasci top

5c

4 m

 

Classico top

5a

4 m

 

Senza nome IV top

6a

4 m

 

Caminetto top

4c

4 m