GROTTA KATERINA

Grotta Katerina was discovered by drytoolers and the seemingly unclimbable overhang was bravely traversed. Today the cave has many routes – the short ones aren‘t even that hard. The atmosphere is great, like a kind of a druid shrine, but the weather can be a drag at any time of the year. If you climb harder routes, Grotta can be an excellent and interesting change in your climbing routine.

Get your ass to Aurisina – check the map for Santa Croce. It is a town stretched along the road between Sistiana and Santa Croce. If you came from Sistiana, follow the left turn at the end of Aurisina, towards the railway station or San Pelagio. First you will cross motorway and later the railroad tracks in a sharp left curve. The road starts to climb a little. When you see an intersection sign be mindful for a turn right (at a pole), as it is narrow and easily missed. Park as unobtrusive as possible before last houses. Then follow a dirt path into the forrest, where you can split to the right at two points, which will bring you to the left/right side of the cave.

WAY TO THE CRAG Short and undemanding walk.

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Grotta Katerina

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Grotta Katerina 45.754911, 13.692682

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI 

OCIZLA HOSTEL 

BEST SEASON Summer is the best time, if it‘s not too hot and the wall is dry. The conditions can vary at any time, so you need some luck. The cave is much cooler than its surroundings, but any rain will drip through quite fast.

SUN & SHADE The cave is always in the shade.

RAIN Most of the routes are under the roof, but they will get wet after heavy rain and take a long time to dry.

STYLE & ROUTES Most routes are nice endurance pieces, which get abruptly interrupted by brutal cruxes, often right near the anchor. Shorter routes have emphasis on power endurance. Apart from endurance and power it is beneficial if you‘re well versed in climbing overhangs, roofs and using the tufas. Beware – some might still break.

GEAR & SAFETY The quality of the bolts varies, which applies also to the pre-placed quickdraws, though they are mostly OK. The rock itself is pretty solid, albeit a bit slippery. The routes are generally not long, but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring enough quickdraws.

KIDS & COMFORT The base of the wall is comfortable and children can play here, as they will probably not climb much.

BEGINNERS You’ve got only a couple of routes and even those are hard. 1/5

ADVANCED There are enough routes, but are mostly short and it’s good if the powerful style suits you. 2/5

THE BEST  The best have the biggest selection of routes, but they are very specific and rarely friendly for the grade. 3/5

NOTES Until recently Grotta was a secret spot – the parking is very small. Try to be as discreet as possible. A lot of effort went into cleaning of the wall and the surroundings, so keep it like that in the future. Building the fire is strictly forbidden. Climbers share the wall with drytoolers! There are lots of spits from drytoolers in the wall, making the lines and anchors a bit confusing. Routes for drytooling are marked with DRY OK. Names of some other routes are written on the wall.

GROTTA

???

P

15 m

 

Ti stimo fratello

6b+

18 m

*

La ultima rola

7c

15 m

*

Projeto Badaboo

8b+?

15 m

 

Caronte

7c+

15 m

 

Mefistofele ext

P

19 m

 

Alta marea

7b+

12 m

 

Alta marea L2 ext

7c

19 m

 

Alta marea L3 ext

8a

20 m

 

Lucio Colombia ext

8b

20 m

 

El rebote

6c

15 m

 

Spittacolo

7a+

15 m

*

8a.nu

7c

14 m

*

Le putain

8b

15 m

 

Hello Katy

8a

15 m

*

Mariposa

7b+

14 m

 

Raketke

7a

14 m

*

Kif

7c+

13 m

 

BMW R45

P

13 m

 

Vongola

6c

12 m

 

Bassupo

7b+

15 m

*

Zoidberg

7b+

15 m

 

Perla

7b

16 m

*

Mandrakata

8a+

20 m

*

Calispera

8c

25 m

 

300 com

8b+

25 m

 

Fidel Incastro

8c+

23 m

*

Anja

P

24 m

 

???

P

23 m

 

Pica Presse

7b+

13 m

 

Stica

6c

13 m

 

Marta

5b

10 m