LIJAK

Natural park Lijak with its tall wall is another crag, that nicely defies winter and strong winds and is worth visiting for the splendid view alone. In the last years the lower sector filled up nicely, but the best routes (even considering the wider region) await in the upper sector. A mix of technical climbing with tufas and overhangs for sure redeems itself for a bit longer approach. It’s only negative is, you run out of routes too soon. Surely, for a nice winter day or two Lijak will be a perfect choice to discover something new.

Try to get to Loke, a village in direct vicinity of Nova Gorica and aim for a small parking beside the church of St. Magdalena. From here are three ways to sector A: two split to the left on a nice forrest trail at first houses, while third follows the road through the village. From here you can continue on the forrest trail, to the right split towards taking off point for paragliders and the crag. Once you reach an information panel, go right again on a trail through the woods, across the scree slope and downhill on a steep terrain, which will bring you to the sector B. From here there is only a short walk to sector C.

WAY TO THE CRAG You will reach the first sector fast and without much hustle, but to get to the main wall, you will have to sweat quite a lot on an often steep trail.

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Lijak

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Lijak 45.959816, 13.707213

There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.

BEST SEASON The wall faces south, so this is a winter crag (on a nice day) with extended season into spring and autumn.

SUN & SHADE Summer is too hot due to sunny exposition. Trees in sector B provide some shade, as well as late afternoon in sectors B and C.

RAIN Although the main wall provides some shelter from the rain, you can’t really climb. The wall gets wet fast, but also dries quickly.

STYLE & ROUTES Sectors A and C are more technical, while harder routes require also strong fingers and precise footwork. In sector B you can find everything: long and short routes; tufas and crimps; power and endurance, but the selection is limited to a couple of routes.

GEAR & SAFETY Sectors A and C are nicely and freshly bolted and sector B in usually like that as well, although there can be some confusing bolts and not everything (including the access for the upper routes) is in top notch condition. The rock in mostly solid. To lower off from the long routes you’ll need at least a 60-meter rope.

KIDS & COMFORT For comfort and kids you can only aim for sector A, while at the other two even the approach will be a bit much, and the base of the wall is also less than ideal.

BEGINNERS Only a couple of routes will be just enough that you didn’t come here in vain. 2/5

ADVANCED You will get enough climbing, no doubt about that, though the routes are a bit specific and (apart from the bunch on the right in sector B) it’s best to take your time and patience for them. 3/5

THE BEST  The 8s are super nice, but for more you’ll have to wait for some of the projects here to be liberated. 2/5

WARNING  The area of the karst spring is a protected natural monument. Due to protection of nature, two lower lying sectors were closed in the past. You are expected to behave in your utmost exemplary manner!

LOKE

Nanjo Navali

6b

18 m

 

Petardo Mauriti

6b+

18 m

 

Gocce di splendore

6a

18 m

 

Strasturi

6a+

18 m

 

Sbirri & Compari

6c

23 m

 

La tana del Bianconiglio

6b

20 m

 

Signorina anarchia

7a+

25 m

 

Surrealistic pillow          

7b     

25 m

 

Also possible is a less logical start to the right.    

???

P

25 m

 

Wild West (Grey)

7c+

23 m

 

Obuti maček

7a+

25 m

 

Kralj Matjaž

6b

18 m

 

Krščen Matiček

6a

18 m

 

???

P

15 m

 

Vipera

5b

15 m

 

???

P

25 m

 

Wild West (Grey)

7c+

23 m

 

Obuti maček

7a+

25 m

 

 

LIJAK MAIN

Pepijev raz

6a+

20 m

 

Očo Pepi

6a+

20 m

*

Očo Pepi 2.del ext

6b

26 m

 

Zlomljena krila

6b+

17 m

 

Fotokopija ext

6c+

28 m

 

Zlomljena krila 2. del ext

7b

23 m

 

Venezia

8a

24 m

*

Bondola

8a

26 m

*

James Bond

8b

26 m

*

???

P

26 m

 

???

P

14 m

 

Fly Machine

7c+

13 m

 

Božji dar ext

8a

24 m

 

Dar bogov mp high 

7b, 6a+, 5c  

60 m

 

Chicago

7b+

18 m

*

Iluzije

7c

18 m

*

Voices of freedom

7b

18 m

*

Africana

6c

20 m

*

Pierrot

6c+

15 m

 

Fatamorgana

7a

17 m

 

Terra Nullius mp high

7a, 7a 65 m

 

 

Terra Nullius Direkt mp var

7a, 7a+

65 m

 

???

P

60 m

 

???

P

60 m

 

Kanja mp high    

see below

65 m

 

A: 5c; B1:5c, B2: 6a; C1:5c, C2: 6a, C3: 6a, C4: 6a

Antagonist mp high  

6a, 6b+, 6b+

60 m

 

RIGHT SIDE

Josephina

5b

18 m

 

Lambada

6a

18 m

 

Minta

6b+

23 m

 

Minotavra

7a+

19 m

 

Mungos

6a+

20 m

 

Šark

6a+

22 m