LIJAK
Natural park Lijak with its tall wall is another crag, that nicely defies winter and strong winds and is worth visiting for the splendid view alone. In the last years the lower sector filled up nicely, but the best routes (even considering the wider region) await in the upper sector. A mix of technical climbing with tufas and overhangs for sure redeems itself for a bit longer approach. It’s only negative is, you run out of routes too soon. Surely, for a nice winter day or two Lijak will be a perfect choice to discover something new.
Try to get to Loke, a village in direct vicinity of Nova Gorica and aim for a small parking beside the church of St. Magdalena. From here are three ways to sector A: two split to the left on a nice forrest trail at first houses, while third follows the road through the village. From here you can continue on the forrest trail, to the right split towards taking off point for paragliders and the crag. Once you reach an information panel, go right again on a trail through the woods, across the scree slope and downhill on a steep terrain, which will bring you to the sector B. From here there is only a short walk to sector C.
WAY TO THE CRAG You will reach the first sector fast and without much hustle, but to get to the main wall, you will have to sweat quite a lot on an often steep trail.
There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.
BEST SEASON The wall faces south, so this is a winter crag (on a nice day) with extended season into spring and autumn.
SUN & SHADE Summer is too hot due to sunny exposition. Trees in sector B provide some shade, as well as late afternoon in sectors B and C.
RAIN Although the main wall provides some shelter from the rain, you can’t really climb. The wall gets wet fast, but also dries quickly.
STYLE & ROUTES Sectors A and C are more technical, while harder routes require also strong fingers and precise footwork. In sector B you can find everything: long and short routes; tufas and crimps; power and endurance, but the selection is limited to a couple of routes.
GEAR & SAFETY Sectors A and C are nicely and freshly bolted and sector B in usually like that as well, although there can be some confusing bolts and not everything (including the access for the upper routes) is in top notch condition. The rock in mostly solid. To lower off from the long routes you’ll need at least a 60-meter rope.
KIDS & COMFORT For comfort and kids you can only aim for sector A, while at the other two even the approach will be a bit much, and the base of the wall is also less than ideal.
BEGINNERS Only a couple of routes will be just enough that you didn’t come here in vain. 2/5
ADVANCED You will get enough climbing, no doubt about that, though the routes are a bit specific and (apart from the bunch on the right in sector B) it’s best to take your time and patience for them. 3/5
THE BEST The 8s are super nice, but for more you’ll have to wait for some of the projects here to be liberated. 2/5
WARNING The area of the karst spring is a protected natural monument. Due to protection of nature, two lower lying sectors were closed in the past. You are expected to behave in your utmost exemplary manner!
LOKE |
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Nanjo Navali |
6b |
18 m |
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Petardo Mauriti |
6b+ |
18 m |
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Gocce di splendore |
6a |
18 m |
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Strasturi |
6a+ |
18 m |
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Sbirri & Compari |
6c |
23 m |
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La tana del Bianconiglio |
6b |
20 m |
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Signorina anarchia |
7a+ |
25 m |
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Surrealistic pillow |
7b |
25 m |
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Also possible is a less logical start to the right. |
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??? |
P |
25 m |
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Wild West (Grey) |
7c+ |
23 m |
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Obuti maček |
7a+ |
25 m |
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Kralj Matjaž |
6b |
18 m |
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Krščen Matiček |
6a |
18 m |
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??? |
P |
15 m |
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Vipera |
5b |
15 m |
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??? |
P |
25 m |
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Wild West (Grey) |
7c+ |
23 m |
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Obuti maček |
7a+ |
25 m |
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LIJAK MAIN |
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Pepijev raz |
6a+ |
20 m |
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Očo Pepi |
6a+ |
20 m |
* |
Očo Pepi 2.del ext |
6b |
26 m |
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Zlomljena krila |
6b+ |
17 m |
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Fotokopija ext |
6c+ |
28 m |
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Zlomljena krila 2. del ext |
7b |
23 m |
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Venezia |
8a |
24 m |
* |
Bondola |
8a |
26 m |
* |
James Bond |
8b |
26 m |
* |
??? |
P |
26 m |
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??? |
P |
14 m |
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Fly Machine |
7c+ |
13 m |
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Božji dar ext |
8a |
24 m |
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Dar bogov mp high |
7b, 6a+, 5c |
60 m |
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Chicago |
7b+ |
18 m |
* |
Iluzije |
7c |
18 m |
* |
Voices of freedom |
7b |
18 m |
* |
Africana |
6c |
20 m |
* |
Pierrot |
6c+ |
15 m |
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Fatamorgana |
7a |
17 m |
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Terra Nullius mp high |
7a, 7a 65 m |
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Terra Nullius Direkt mp var |
7a, 7a+ |
65 m |
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??? |
P |
60 m |
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??? |
P |
60 m |
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Kanja mp high |
see below |
65 m |
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A: 5c; B1:5c, B2: 6a; C1:5c, C2: 6a, C3: 6a, C4: 6a |
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Antagonist mp high |
6a, 6b+, 6b+ |
60 m |
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RIGHT SIDE |
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Josephina |
5b |
18 m |
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Lambada |
6a |
18 m |
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Minta |
6b+ |
23 m |
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Minotavra |
7a+ |
19 m |
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Mungos |
6a+ |
20 m |
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Šark |
6a+ |
22 m |
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