Napoleonica

Napa is a true family climbing spot, even if „papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers nasty vertical wall. The older part is situated beside the road, where the routes are artificial and polished, while the newer sectors lie below and above the road – with excellent Calabroni and Mano di Fatima – and brought a true renaissance to the Napa crag. Due to friendly conditions, the place can be quite crowded, and sometimes even full of passers by, who come to check the nice view and catch a few sun rays.

APPROACH

Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction Venezia. Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left (unless you need a sandwich or a nice wooden table) and immediately turn left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking, on the end of which the crag starts. For alternate parking for Occhiali sector go right in T intersection, almost to the center of Prosecco and sharply turn left at stop sign. Continue through Contovello, downward, through hairpin bend and continue untill a small parking for 4 cars on the right. The sector is a couple 100 m back.

The big parking is the starting point for all sectors. The easiest to access are Classica, Scudo and Lastrone giallo (and also Avancorpo Cispan Basso, Torre Trieste and Salame), which are reached while walking on the closed road. Along this road, on the left, there is a steep path uphill for sectors Katzo, Vedetta Italia and Cristo. You can reach the latter two also from the top, splitting from the path, which leads from the parking to Monte Grisa. Sectors Avancorpo Cispan Alto and Bianca are best accessed from this path, while they are also connected to the lower sectors and the road with some goat‘s paths, on which you sometimes even have to climb a little. Near the end of the road, on the right is a scree slope – you can use it for Calabroni, or split right soon after you descend to get to Bubulk, which lies under the road, from where there is a path to Torre di Babele. Both sectors can also be reached by a steep path from the road. Same goes for Piccolo Cottolengo, although the path here is almost a route (or use the abseil). This sector is best reached by a longer path, that comes from Grotta del Cane. Come to Calabroni using only the path from the road, as there is a private property beside it!

To get to Grotta del Cane start at the end of the parking and use a small scree on the right of the viewpoint. From here a winding path leads down and to the right, past Olimpo (for which you climb up a bit, or you can get to it from a trail on the top), and Lunapark, to the connected sectors Parallele and Mano di Fatima. From here you can reach the lower road, where Occhiali lies in three small sectors, or you can continue uphill to the sector Serpente, from where you can also reach the top via a different path (passing the new La Cuenca). You can get to Occhiali also from the lower road, but the alternative parking is small and we don‘t recommend it. For these newer sectors it‘s even better to park at the first, gravel part of the parking, from where a wide path leads diagonally through the forest to the viewpoint. Before you reach it, there is a split to the left and down, where, just before the path gets steep, you can go right and find the ferratta for La Cuenca. Walk carefully – the scree is slippery and will not spare your ankles. For less confusion just look at the map below.

WAY TO THE CRAG The approaches vary a lot – the easiest can be measured in seconds and goes on the flat road, while the hard ones include ferrattas or steep scree slopes.

Napoleonica

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Napoleonica 45.698604, 13.740968

ACOMMODATION & FOOD

The Trieste coast has lots of options for sleeping and eating. Look for agroturismi and B&B’s in every village. There are many campsites scattered around, namely Carso camp or Pineta near Sistiana. Or – stay in Slovenia, since everything is quite close.

We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:

VOVK CAMP

POD KOSTANJI

OCIZLA HOSTEL

CLIMBING INFO

BEST SEASON The exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here whole winter (on a sunny day) and, of course, in spring and autumn. In the summer the weather is too hot, with exception of parts in the shade and the mornings or evenings.

SUN & SHADE Despite southern exposition many walls face a bit to the west, so they have some shade in the morning. It lasts a bit longer in Calabroni and Occhiali. All the walls are sheltered from the wind.

RAIN Rain will chase you to the nearest bar or to the sectors under the road. Some routes do tend to get wet after rain.

STYLE & ROUTES The routes are mostly vertical, with some exceptions in between and the sectors Mano di Fatima and Grotta di Cano (where power and dynamics is required). The climbing is usually technical and precise. A lot of times accurate beta is very helpful. Watch out on the older routes – just because the local climber is running up the route, same may not apply to you, despite „low“ grade. The rock here was cut for the passing road, and the holds prove it – often they are polished like family silverware of obsessive compulsive brush salesman.

GEAR & SAFETY The rock is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to brand new. Routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope ocassionaly. The routes aren‘t too long (around 30 m max), but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring a few extra quickdraws.

KIDS & COMFORT The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalelled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach. Some sectors, especially by the road, are ideal for kids.

BEGINNERS Not every route is great – some have less than perfect approach/equipment, some are polished, but beside the road, in Paralelle, Calabroni (for those a bit better) and everywhere in between there are enough enjoyable beauties. 5/5

ADVANCED You’ve got many different routes, the only problem is the lack of overhangs and the fact that routes are quite technical or with a hard crux. 5/5

THE BEST Technical verticals in Scudo, boulders in Grotta del Cane and the great Mano di Fatima will offer enough challenges to you. 4/5

NOTES

NOTES Beside the upper road, under Cristo, there are some more easy routes (some are climbed on top rope). With a little effort you may find even more. The wall to the right of Lastrone giallo is also full of old remains of climbing and bolting, and a possible future potential.

BOULDERS If you are tired of routes and traverses, you can grab your crashpad and try something harder. You can find boulder problems everywhere, but true challenges lie at the end of the road on the left side. Especially the X‘s have a colorful history. They used to be climbed all the way to the top, which is quite a highball.

TRAVERSES The traverses of Napoleonica are a legendary element of this crag. Often the climbers come here only to cross the wall left and right just a few centimeters above ground. They are great also for warm-up or for those scared of heights. You only need climbing shoes and some chalk. The oldest, Classica was climbed even before 1970. This starting line continues into Scudo, which is followed by Traversatta Gialla, Berto presente and Bianca. You can connect all the traverses along the full length of the wall! The only climber that we know of, who achieved this, is legendary Marco Sterni. He says it was pretty hard. There are two more shorter traverses on the right side.

ROUTES CLASSICA & KATZO

CLASSICA
Texi	5a	12 m	*
Franchica	5b	12 m
Spigolo giallo	6a	12 m
Mr. Grease	6a	12 m	*
Carioca	6a	12 m
Variante COM	6a+	12 m
Isidoro	6a	12 m
Mago Merlino	6a+	12 m
No Arci	6a	12 m
Bombastic	5c	12 m	*
J. Arg	5c	12 m
Old Time	5b	12 m
Stù Iedì	5c	10 m
Napo games	6a	10 m
Rock labirinth	6c	10 m	*
Clorophille	6b+	10 m
Cico	4c	10 m	*
Re Artù	6a+	12 m
Mumble	5c	12 m	*
Q6	6a	12 m
Q7	5c	12 m
Viola mania	5a	8 m	*
Irish coffee	5c	10 m	*
Black out	6b	10 m
B.P.S.	6a+	12 m
Bananarama	6a	12 m	*
Gratta e vinci	6a+	12 m
Cuba libre	7b+	10 m
La via del teran	6b	12 m
Stinger	6b	12 m
KATZO
Lorem ipsum	5b	?? m	*
Noname	5c	?? m
Tadejina smer	5c	?? m

ROUTES SCUDO & LASTRONE GIALLO

SCUDO
Mr. Crocodile	7b	12 m
Managua	7b	15 m	*
Managua 2 ext	7b+	17 m
Ratataplan	7b	17 m
Mud club	8a+	18 m	*
Telefono azzurro	7a+	19 m
Scudo	7a+	20 m	*
???	P	20 m
Wild wind	8a	20 m
Poker direct	8b	18 m
Poker d’assi	7c+	18 m	*
Orcobaleno	8b	18 m	*
Romantische strasse	8a	10 m
Scala reale	7a+	10 m
LASTRONE GIALLO
Criticomania	7a	22 m
Highlander II	7a	23 m
Lucky Luke	7b	23 m
La Rouge	7a+	12 m	*
La Rouge DX	7b	14 m
Pugacioff	8b+	17 m	*
Hell’s bells	7c	25 m	*
Atmosfera zero	7c	22 m	*
Blu Notte	8a+	20 m

ROUTES VEDETTA ITALIA & CRISTO

VEDETTA ITALIA
Lupetto	5c	20 m
Stancherle	6a+	20 m
Cucherle	6a	20 m
Titanic	6a+	20 m	*
La vendetta dei nani	7a+	20 m	*
Sognando California	7b+	25 m
Menudaie	8b	25 m
Dr. Jekill e Mr. Hyde !!!	7a	25 m
Desaparecidos	8a+	25 m
Il miglio verde	7c	25 m
Oggi no!	7b+	25 m
Il clown	6a	25 m	*
CRISTO
Spigolo del Cristo	6a	20 m	*
Jesus Christ Masterfix	6c	20 m	*
Tonsai	7a+	23 m	*
Heliopolys	7a+	23 m
La rusine del Cristo	6c	23 m	*
Una storia sbagliata	6b+	25 m	*
Punti cardinali	6c+	25 m
Il belvedere	6a	16 m
Find your way ext	P	31 m
Salto nel nulla	6a	15 m
Zazzeron!	5c	17 m
Placca de Cispan	5b	17 m	*
L’esprit de la grimpe	5a	14 m
L’esprit de la grimpe 2. del ext	8a	27 m
Il viaggio di Icaro	6c+	32 m
Le scafe alte com	4b	25 m
Il gabbiano e la poiana	5c	20 m

ROUTES AVANCORPO CISPAN & RIGHT SECTORS

AVANCORPO CISPAN ALTO
Idefix	6a+	15 m
Anacleto	6b	15 m
Artù	5b	18 m
Panoramix	6b	18 m
Falbalà	5c	18 m
Asterix	5b	18 m
Obelix	5c	18 m
Merlino	4c	18 m
AVANCORPO CISPAN BASSO
Aladin	5b	20 m	*
Morgana	6b	17 m
Heidi	5a	20 m
TORRE TRIESTE
Trilly	6a	13 m
Peter Pan	6a+	28 m
Via de Spiro com	5a	28 m
Rebus	6c	28 m	*
Prečnica	4b	20 m
Brontolo	5a	20 m
Contrattempi	6b	30 m	*
Pokemon	4b	20 m
SALAME & SALAMINO
Eta Beta	6b	18 m	*
Naftalina	6c	20 m	*
Spiro	5a	20 m
Cispan	5a	16 m
BIANCA
Passagio de Spiro	5c	10 m
Passagio facile	3	10 m

ROUTES TORRE DI BABELE & BUBULK TOWER

TORRE DI BABELE
S.O.S.	6b+	20 m
Mistral	6b	20 m
Torre di Babele	7a+	20 m
L’estro del Musico	6b	20 m	*
Senza catena	6c+	20 m
Cucù	6c+	20 m
BUBULK TOWER
Super Viki	7a	23 m
Sugli specchi	6b	25 m
Highlander I	6c	20 m
Highlander I 2. del Ext	7a+	30 m
Junc high	6a+	15 m
Senza nome	6b	22 m
Miramar	6a	18 m
Bubulk tower	6c	22 m	*
Bubulk tower 2. del Ext	6c+	30 m
Projet	6c	17 m
Projet 2. del Ext	7a	30 m

ROUTES CALABRONI

CALABRONI
Animal house	6b+	18 m
Ultimatum	6b+	18 m
Cherry kiss	7a	18 m
El gonzo	6c	18 m	*
Herr Dulfer	6a+	26 m	*
Diedro concavo	5c	30 m
Calabroni	5c	26 m
Mai dopo i kosi	5c	30 m
Arnica montana	6b+	30 m	*
Reve de sardon	6c+	12 m
Barracuda	6c+	12 m
Sumar fluskur	6c	22 m	*
Pinna bianca	6b	20 m
Ascelle atomiche	6c+	20 m
Dreamland	6b+	20 m	*
Il grande vuoto	6c	16 m	*
Vitovska	6b	16 m
Piedi sensibili	6c	20 m
Muschio selvaggio	6b	24 m
Nein danke	6a+	27 m	*
Sika no more	6b+	22 m	*
Materia grigia	6c	22 m
Luna blu	6b+	22 m
Bestia nera	6c	18 m
Sgrunf	6c+	16 m	*
Spitfire	6a+	16 m	*
Calabronication	6b	16 m
Mira el dito	6b+	16 m	*
Violetta	6b+	16 m

ROUTES PICCOLO COTTOLENGO, GROTTA DEL CANE, OLIMPO & LUNAPARK

PICCOLO COTTOLENGO
Lost angels	6a	18 m
Connexion	6a	20 m
Via di fuga	6a+	20 m
Guru Gaspa	7b	20 m	*
Milf	7b	16 m
Takel	7b+	20 m	*
La mia Calmazia	6c	30 m
Hot line	7b+	30 m
Coffee on sight	7a+	26 m
Scorpio	7a	26 m	*
I marielli	7b	26 m
Il trasloco	6b+	24 m
Nico’s moves	6c+	23 m
Speedball	7a+	25 m
Blaghers in arms	6c	25 m
GROTTA DEL CANE
Atti vandalici	6a+	12 m
Promozione	5a	12 m
Diarrea	5a	8 m
La cascata	6a+	12 m
La fontana	6c+	12 m	*
Scorpions	7b	15 m	*
Il parassita	7c	16 m
Oklahoma	7c+	15 m	*
Absolutely free	8a	15 m
Skywalker	8a+	15 m	*
Martedì grasso	8a	13 m	*
El muzzin	P	13 m
Veronica	7c+	12 m
Jojelly	P	12 m
Micio	7b+	11 m
Gaston	6c+	7 m
OLIMPO
La scala dei Ziganti	4a	12 m
Senza nome	6a+	12 m
Please don’t fly	6a+	12 m
Ramses	6b+	12 m	*
Nefertari	6b	12 m	*
Paperinik	5c	12 m
Andromacus	6a	12 m
Apollo	6c+	12 m
Cracatoa	6a+	12 m
Afrodite	6b+	12 m
Timò	7a	12 m
Damocle	7a+	10 m
LUNAPARK
Jailbreak	5c	9 m
Una favola per Nicolò	4c	24 m
La guantiera pirata	5a	18 m
Il vassoio fantasma	6a+	22 m	*
Tagadà	7b	24 m
Yu mast	7a+	20 m	*
Diedro bianco	5c	22 m
Burpy	6a	22 m	*
Via dalla pazza folla	5a	20 m

ROUTES MANO DI FATIMA & PARALELLE

MANO DI FATIMA
Ushuaia	7a+	14 m
This is not Hollywood	6c	14 m
Mano di Fatima	6a	15 m
Maktub	6c+	15 m
Surimono	6c	15 m	*
La guerra dei nervi	7c+	18 m	*
Sbisigando con l’orango	8b+	20 m
Sacro e profano	8b	20 m
Il padrone assoluto com	8a+	20 m	*
Harakiri	7c	10 m	*
Harakiri kiki ext	8a+	18 m
L’obliqua	7b+	13 m	*
L’obliqua plus ext	8a+	18 m
Banzai	7b	10 m	*
Banzai do vrha ext	8a+	18 m
Gocce di saggezza	6a+	13 m	*
Lemuri	8b+	18 m
Confucio	6c+	15 m	*
Il cipresso nel cortile !!!	6c	16 m
PARALELLE
Veleno per il cuore	7a	16 m
Shobogenzoo	6b+	16 m
Sol levante	5b	16 m
La fessura	5a	20 m	*
La fonte della giovinezza	4a	20 m	*
La via accanto	4a	18 m
Orecchie d’asino	4c	17 m
Brodo way	6c	19 m	*
Il tagliaerbe	6b	18 m	*
Algatraz	6b	18 m
Il giro del pirata	4c	18 m
Equinozio	5c	23 m	*
Ezio e le storie tese	6a+	24 m	*
Nave scuola	4b	22 m
Calimero	6b	28 m	*
Le parallele	5c	22 m
Campanula piramidale	5a	28 m	*
Ho bisogno di te	3	8 m
Corso ‘98	3	10 m

ROUTES SERPENTE, LA CUENCA & OCCHIALI

SERPENTE
Senza nome	5a	20 m
Oberon e Titania	6a+	20 m
La dama delle Eufobie	6b	20 m
Hellas	6a	20 m
Via del serpente	6a	23 m
L’onomastico	7a	20 m
Diagonalka	6c	22 m
Corto Maltese	5c	20 m
LA CUENCA
Pietra franabile	6b	15 m
El cadin	6b+	15 m	*
La sposa furiosa	6b	15 m
Il tenente Collombrello	5a	15 m	*
Jump club	6c	15 m
La sfinge	5c	12 m
Guida ballerino	6a	12 m
Zoccolina nera	6b	12 m
La panchina	5c	20 m	*
Climbing a muerte	6a	16 m
Il calzolaio matto	6a+	16 m	*
The best man	6a	16 m
OCCHIALI
50	6a	12 m
Troppo bella	5b	12 m
L’arrampuscolo	6a+	25 m
L’arrampuscolo direkt	6c+	25 m
Variante Jurejev	6b+	25 m
Capitan Hakerle com	6b	25 m
Luna rossa	7a	20 m
Gli occhiali	6a+	20 m
Gli occhiali do vrha ext	6b+	27 m
Spazio libero	6c+	25 m
Gnappy	6a	25 m
Galla forcella	6c+	16 m	*
…e cugina Cedrona	6b+	16 m
L’edera della placca	5b	15 m
Il camino dell’edera	5b	15 m
Juaõ	6b	15 m
Fuma fuma merlo	6c	15 m