OSP – LUKNJA
Although Luknja is part of the Osp area, it functions almost as a completely separate crag, especially due to its wild and unique characteristics in Spider‘s roof. Top notch 7s, 9s and magical atmosphere with possible climbing in the rain and a shaded exposition make it one of the most interesting crags in Slovenia. Even the little crag on the way there, Srnjak, can be quite fun, although it is in the shade of the giants around it.
For initial instructions and maps please read the access for Mišja and Babna. It’s best to park at the parking for Mišja peč, if nothing better has been set up in Osp. From the village on, Luknja sector has a different path (although there used to be a connection to the sector Banje). The way up splits at the first houses, beside the bridge across the dry riverbed (if there is a river you can forget about Luknja), past the old playground and up the hill. When you cross three wooden bridges a more serious hill starts – here you can split to the left for Srnjak (for the left routes; the right ones are better approached from Luknja) or continue uphill to the Big Wall. You can also reach it by wandering through the riverbed.
WAY TO THE CRAG Way to Srnjak (for the routes on the left) is easy and mostly straight. For Luknja you will break quite a sweat, but the path is quite nice and maintained. Be careful if you walk on dry riverbed.
In Osp you can choose from camp VOVK and hostel and apartments POD KOSTANJI. In camp VOVK you can also get good food on weekends and busy days. In nearby Črni Kal you can find ROBIDA hostel next to a restaurant. If you don’t mind driving a couple of minutes, there are also nearby hostels XAXID and OCIZLA in vicinity, and restaurants like ŠVAB in Hrastovlje, SOČERGA near the border, Mahnič and Tonca in Kozina and even more options in Koper.
We would definitely recommend staying in these climber-tested establishments:
BEST SEASON You can climb here almost all year round, only the biggest cold and heat can be uncomfortable. Bigger problems are dampness and the lake, which are not common in the summer.
SUN & SHADE The deeper you go, the more shade Luknja has. Otherwise, the left routes are in the sun at noon. Srnjak gets less sun, but a bit more in the morning.
RAIN Luknja is, unlike Srnjak, almost completely under the roof and you can climb there in rain and wind. The only problem is if it gets wet or even worse – if a lake fueled by Osapščica river forms under the wall. In this case you‘ll need a cayak or raft, but you will at least skip the cruxes in the beginning of the routes.
STYLE & ROUTES Routes in Luknja are mostly endlessly long endurance pieces on good holds in overhang. Be prepared for athletic climbing, innovative rests, 3D labyrinth between tufas and mushrooms and an occasional nasty crux. You need to get used to climbing here. Srnjak offers easier vertical routes with sharp holds and small footholds in the lower grade range. But the routes here are quite long as well.
GEAR & SAFETY All the routes are perfectly equipped and mostly new. In Luknja there are many pre-placed QDs, which are changed often. The rock quality in Luknja is good, except if some tufa breaks, so never stand under a climber. On the edges the quality drops quite a bit, and also the whole Srnjak is still a bit crumbly. Because of the length bring at least 70 m rope, and for the longest routes even the 80 m – because of the overhang it is usually enough. You will also need at least 16 QDs. Take care of your gear as it deteriorates faster in the sand! Bring a helmet to Srnjak, because there is the path to Babna above you.
KIDS & COMFORT Approach can be a little exhausting, but the space in Luknja is ideal for children – a huge sandbox – just don’t let them play under climbers! We would not advise visiting Srnjak with kids.
BEGINNERS Here you’ll mostly be belay slaves. You have a couple of nice routes though. 2/5
ADVANCED Whole Srnjak and epic, long, continuous sevens on the left side of Luknja – what more could you want? 4/5
THE BEST You will not think this is paradise only if climbing here is extremely your anti-style. Otherwise, the routes are considered a bit soft. 4/5
HISTORY Climbing in Luknja was developed last in the area, although the climbers visited it at the very beginning, when they were aid climbing the Big Wall in the 80s. According to the verbal history (and phoenomenal notes from Bor Štrancar) the first visitors here were cavers from Trieste, soon followed by the alpine climbers, like the old legends Cergol, Giberna and Silich. They were joined by Slovenians in the 80s. The wall, which was climbed only by using aid, was in the beginning known as extremely hard and even the experienced climbers had to bivouac here. The Spider‘s roof was at that time, with its 190 meters, the longest traversed roof in the world. The people who traversed it were mountaineering legends Silvo Karo, Janez Jeglič – Johan and Franček Knez in 1984. Some (more sport/free climbing enthusiasts) were cynically joking, that this ascent changed the area into „a shit in the barn“ and that they should extend the route about 900 meters deeper into the karst cave. The most interesting repeat of the route followed three years later, when Držan/Slabanja climbed the route even „without stirrups“. Anyway, apart from some other beginnings of aid climbs, Luknja was soon completely abandoned – but such were the times. Even in Mišja at that time there were only three aid routes. Then climbing progressed and surrounding walls were filling with harder and harder routes every year. When climbers started to run out of space to bolt in Mišja, the old legend goes, that Matej Sova and Klemen Bečan bumped into Uroš Perko, who told them: „I don‘t understand you, lads, hanging in this Mišja day in and day out, while in the neighbouring Luknja there is future awaiting with blank walls, f*ck!“ So they went. First they extended one already bolted project, which became Bitka s stalaktiti, then each of them made his own project on either side of the wall: Revolucija and Halupca. And nothing was ever the same. Today Luknja is on a good path to become the crag with the most hard and the hardest routes in Slovenia.
NOTES Here too all the limitations and rules of conduct apply as in the whole Osp area. In Luknja it is forbidden to develop new routes without a permit from the Alpine association.
SPECIAL WARNING! The small tufas in Luknja are different from those in other crags. Because they are tufaceous, they are very porous and get soaked with water fast. When they are dry, they are very strong, but if water is dripping from them, it also dissolved the binding materials inside, which makes them much more fragile, like a wall without mortar. Because this are good holds, it is possible to climb even wet routes, but the risk that the tufa will break is, also according to experiences from last couple of years, much higher. Let’s leave aside the danger for the people under the wall, here the most important is preservation of the wall and especially routes – many have in time already become harder and just a break or two separate them from making a 5-star route unclimbable or having a nasty bouldery crux! So absolutely refrain from climbing, grabbing or stepping on wet mushrooms and tufas! We understand that it is annoying, when you drive from far away and your project is dripping wet. But climbing in nature also has such limitations. Your decision to ignore this warning is even more unethical than chipping artificial holds. Luknja has a relatively long dry period, some routes are also less critical and besides, there are Osp, Mišja peč and Baratro nearby.
SRNJAK |
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Lilijin vrt |
6b+ |
20 m |
|
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Lilijin vrt (2. del) Ext |
6b+ |
30 m |
* |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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T.O. Zelena dolina |
7a+ |
30 m |
|
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Raz |
7a+ |
25 m |
** |
After lower crack there is some more work over the overhang. |
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Hopla konopla |
7c |
30 m |
* |
Technical upper part on the corner. |
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4800s |
7a+ |
30 m |
* |
Technical with edges to finish. Reachy moves. |
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Govorna driska |
7a |
32 m |
** |
Nice and continuous. |
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Me cago en el amor |
6c+ |
35 m |
** |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Ringlšpil |
6b |
25 m |
** |
After delicate start gets better. Technical and endurance climbing. |
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Ringlšpil (2. del) Ext |
6b |
38 m |
** |
Extension with a couple of more moves. |
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Judežev poljub |
7a+ |
32 m |
** |
Nice and challenging with crux over the roof, then endurance. |
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Poletna noč |
6c |
30 m |
** |
Continuous technical climbing with a couple of cruxes. |
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Bolj star, bolj nor |
6a |
36 m |
** |
Continuous and technical, gets hard at times, followed by a rest. Loose rock. |
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B.F. – posestnik iz Ospa |
6b |
36 m |
* |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Sveta preproščina |
6a+ |
20 m |
* |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Sveta preproščina (2. del) Ext |
6c+ |
37 m |
* |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Urad za nepremičnine |
6b+ |
20 m |
* |
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Urad za nepremičnine (2. del) Ext |
7a+ |
37 m |
|
Yet to be evaluated… |
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Silvo Faruški |
6a+ |
20 m |
* |
Grey technical rock, with some vegetables and cruxes on edges. |
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Silvo Faruški (2. del) Ext |
7a |
45 m |
|
Loose rock after first anchor. Airy route, but nice. |
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Noč čarovnic |
6a |
25 m |
* |
Grey technical rock, with some vegetables and cruxes on edges. |
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Ptičja gripa |
5b |
32 m |
** |
Grey technical rock, with some vegetables and cruxes on edges. |
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Angel Gabriel |
6a |
32 m |
** |
Grey technical rock, with some vegetables and cruxes on edges. |
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Javornik (1.del) |
6c |
32 m |
* |
Start is more reachy with some negative holds. |
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Javornik mp |
6c, 6c+, 6c |
65 m |
|
The middle pitch is a bit strange, but gets nicer in the second part. |
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Čudna so pota ljubezni |
6a+ |
32 m |
** |
Grey technical rock, with some vegetables and cruxes on edges. |
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Pila |
6b+ |
32 m |
* |
Technical climbing on small edges. |
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Žagca |
6c+ |
32 m |
|
Technical climbing on small edges. Nasty at times. |
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Žaga |
6a+ |
32 m |
*** |
Old school climbing in the corner. |
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Sekolar !!! |
6b |
32 m |
|
Still a lot of loose rock. Will be nicer when it cleans up. Big crack. |
LUKNJA |
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Vitez iz Poljan |
7a |
30 m |
*** |
A few technical moves in lower part, then just endurance. |
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Z balonom do sreče |
7a |
30 m |
** |
Awkward over the roof at the beginning, then endurance. |
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Pikapoka |
7b+ |
30 m |
*** |
Tufa endurance with two nice easy to figure out cruxes. |
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Pooping without peeing |
7b+ |
26 m |
*** |
Between Pikapoka and dancing, similar to both. |
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Dance without sleeping |
7b |
26 m |
*** |
Endurance on jugs and tufa. Cruxy parts in first half on either side of a rest. |
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Poskus ni ples |
7c |
32 m |
*** |
Start in Dance and go right and then left of Try. Nice endurance! |
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Try just a little bit harder |
7b |
30 m |
** |
Intense endurance. You need good tempo and psyche. Some slopers. |
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4bis |
7b+ |
30 m |
** |
Nice endurance climbing and an awkward finishing roof as you get pumped. |
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Tržaška smer |
7b |
22 m |
*** |
Endurance climbing on tufa. The first anchor is for pussies and the lazy. |
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Tržaška smer (2.del) Ext |
7b+ |
33 m |
*** |
Short extension with a couple of moves over the roof. |
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Leon |
8b+ |
35 m |
** |
Power endurance with crux in the middle. |
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Ajzenponar !!! |
7b |
22 m |
|
Unnecessary and crumbly route. |
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Mamka Bršljanka !!! |
6c |
22 m |
|
Easy climbing with crux near the end. Airy. |
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Working Class – Leon |
8c |
33 m |
* |
Hard connection of Working class and Leon. |
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Working class hero |
8c |
30 m |
*** |
Mostly endurance with a few cruxes to spice things up. |
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Vodni svet (Water world) |
9a |
56 m |
*** |
The hardest route in the cave. Excellent endurance with powerful start. |
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Poletna poč |
6c |
8 m |
|
Short route in the crack. |
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Osapska pošast |
7c+ |
20 m |
** |
Awkward crack in the middle turns into pumpy overhang and hard finish. |
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Bala Bala Ext |
8b+ |
56 m |
** |
Alternative exit of Osapska pošast. Continues into multipitch. |
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Osapska pošast (2.del) Ext |
8c |
55 m |
*** |
Endurance monster. Hard after first anchor, in the middle and at the end. |
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Helihopter v omaki |
8b |
30 m |
*** |
The best route in the cave. Athletic power endurance. |
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Pošast v omaki Ext |
8c |
55 m |
*** |
Helihopter with continuation into Pošast finish. |
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Bitka s stalaktiti |
8b |
55 m |
*** |
Endurance in tufa land with bouldery start. Athletic and inventive. |
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Baram baram |
8a+ |
20 m |
* |
Bouldery route with reachy crux in the middle. |
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Baram baram direkt |
P |
20 m |
|
Still a project. |
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Čez lukne |
P |
25 m |
|
Still a project. |
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Revolucija |
8c+ |
25 m |
** |
Power endurance in the roof. A lot of turning and hooking. |
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Totalna revolucija Ext |
P |
30 m |
|
Still a project. |
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Halupca 1979 |
9a |
27 m |
** |
Nice 8a to the crux before the roof. Lengthy boulder, then endurance. |
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Troja |
8a+ |
25 m |
*** |
Crux in the lower part, then tufa land that gets more intense at the end. |
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Troja (2. del) Ext |
8c |
32 m |
** |
Same crux as Troja. Soon after the crux continue straight to the top. |
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Couch surfing Ext |
8c+ |
55 m |
** |
A somewhat hard extension over the series of roofs. |
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Trojanski konj |
7c+ |
18 m |
** |
An escape to the right from Troja. Still quite nice. |
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Laokoon Ext |
8a |
33 m |
** |
An extension of Trojanski konj. A couple more endurance moves in the roof. |
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Zimovc |
6b |
8 m |
|
Just the lower part of Active discharge. Route for belay slaves. |
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Active discharge |
8a |
25 m |
*** |
Lower part has climbing on good edges, then tufa endurance. A must climb! |
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Active discharge (2.del) Ext |
8b+ |
55 m |
*** |
Lenghty crux soon after the first anchor. Then more endurance to the top. |
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Sedmica |
6c |
8 m |
|
Bouldery and short. Often dusty. Warms you up a tad better than Zimovc. |
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Jerca Žverca |
7b |
15 m |
|
Quite bouldery and dusty. |
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Gnezdo !!! |
6b? |
15 m |
|
When it’s not dusty it’s quite climbable. |
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Šatida Bagaba |
6a+ |
15 m |
* |
Dusty route that gets nicer after cruxy start. |
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Rudolfo |
5c |
15 m |
** |
Easy and nice, often dusty. Some reachy moves. |
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Hidden Secret Photo Project Ext |
8c+ |
52 m |
* |
Hard extension of Rudolfo with boulder soon after first anchor. |
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Aktivna burja |
7b+ |
35 m |
*** |
Local route, for fun. Start in Črna burja, finish in Active discharge. |
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Leva burja |
7b+ |
30 m |
** |
Local variant of Črna burja with a bit more crimpy finish. |
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Črna burja (Bora scura) |
7b |
30 m |
*** |
Tufa land endurance climbing, with a few cruxes and rests along the way. |
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Magična goba (Fungo magico) |
6b |
18 m |
|
After easy start there are a few moves in the middle. |
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Magična goba (2.del) |
7b |
35 m |
*** |
After first anchor there is cruxy corner and then nice tufa. |
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5 prijateljev Ext |
7c |
43 m |
** |
A new long extension of Magična goba. |
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Tine Ext |
7c+ |
42 m |
** |
A new long extension of Magična goba. |
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Štafetna logika |
6b |
18 m |
* |
A nice route with crumbly beginning. |
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Štafetna logika (2.del) Ext |
7a |
37 m |
** |
An extension with nice endurance climbing. |
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Le chat c’est moi |
P |
37 m |
|
Still a project. Don’t climb it as it is very crumbly. |
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Herr Frik |
P |
35 m |
|
Still a project. Don’t climb it as it is very crumbly. |
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Psycho |
6a+ |
35 m |
* |
Rarely climbed technical route. A bit loose, but not as bad. |
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Una storia |
6a+ |
35 m |
* |
Rarely climbed technical route. A bit loose, but not as bad. |
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Bereit, wenn sie es sind dr. Lecter |
5b |
25 m |
|
Short and neglected, but quite climbable. |
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Kopfüber |
5a |
20 m |
* |
Short and neglected, but quite climbable. |