VIPAVSKA BELA

Vipavska Bela is one of the most popular crags in Slovenia, albeit it’s less frequented by foreign visitors. Many climbers do their first steps in the rock or climb their first 8b, with everything in between. The nice canyon of Bela river is climbable almost all year round and although the routes tend to be shorter, there are lots of them, so regardless of your level, you will not exhaust the potential of the crag too soon.

The easiest way to Vipavska Bela leads via Vipava, where you drive through the city and look for the right turn for Vrhpolje. Drive through Vrhpolje and stick right at the church. At the end of the village the road goes uphill on two small hairpin bends, after which is a potential emergency parking. A bit further you come to a sharp turn left with an auto repair shop beside the road. Here, a dirt road leads down straight to the sector A. But driving and parking here is forbidden, so drive about 100 meters further and park without disturbing the traffic beside the road close to restaurant Theodosius and return back on foot. If you continue on the main road through the woods, you will see a clearing before the right turn, where you can park for sector B and reach it via a path downhill. Even further on the road there is a big parking beside the meadow. From here you can go straight down on steep stairs, which get you between sectors C and D, or go around on the side of the meadow to the end of sector D. From here you can go to a left path beside the river to get to sectors E-G. From the main parking the road continues on hairpin bends uphill for an alternative approach via Logatec and Col, or Ajdovščina. 

WAY TO THE CRAG Path to sectors A-D is super nice and easy. You may have to put some effort into getting to sectors F and G and it may involve crossing the water or jumping across the riverbed.

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Vipavska Bela

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Vipavska Bela 45.872830, 13.972666

There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.

BEST SEASON Although Country house was climbed in harsh winter conditions, the winter is too cold and too damp. Best seasons are spring and autumn, when the wall dries, while you can also find shade in summer, especially in the afternoon. For hard routes you will still need a bit lower temperatures though.

SUN & SHADE The exposition is mostly SE, which means that the walls are in the shade in the afternoon. Sector C has some shade before that and some is provided by trees in lower parts.

RAIN Rain is a problem, since walls take some time to dry. That goes especially for sectors A, E, F and G. But it’s also true that during rain you can climb in sectors A and G, and to some extent in sector C as well.

STYLE & ROUTES Sector A is quite overhanging, with good holds and athletic climbing for strong bicepses. Even the 6’s here are very beautiful. Sectors C and D are more vertical with occasional small roof, where you may often find interesting crux on small, sharp holds. Especially sector C has long, technical endurance routes, worth your visit. Sector D can be more of a gamble, regarding the beauty of routes and you will be surprised by some of the grades. The last sector, Krnica,  is a challenge for the best climbers- small crimps, sharp tufas, length and overhang – what more could you want?

GEAR & SAFETY Grey limestone is solid and karsty and may break very rarely. On the other hand, some of the older routes are chipped, polished and sometimes both. The crag was mostly re-equipped with glue-in bolts and good anchors with biners, though you may find some old gear in between. But not all routes are bolted ideally, so you should still be careful. The routes are not too long and you will need a bit more quickdraws only in sectors C and G.

KIDS & COMFORT The approach is short and very comfortable. If you are scared of steep stairs, you can also go around them on the meadow. There is lots of space under the wall for everyone. This is a perfect family crag. The exceptions being sectors E, F and G, which may even be hard to get to (across the water and along it), but there is a nice plateau with a small pool, waiting for you under the sector G.

BEGINNERS Sector D is your ideal playground. Many beautiful and easy routes one after another, nice approach and good equipment. There are even some of the easiest routes in Slovenia here, for a first visit of natural crag. 5/5

ADVANCED Advanced climbers can climb a bit everywhere. Sector A has a couple of beauties, then there is the great sector C, while the bouldering chacarter of routes in sector D can be fun as well. 4/5

THE BEST  Sector A is your destination for power and power endurance, and sector C for long and vertical endurance routes. Go to sector G for some classics like Country house and Povodni mož. 4/5

HISTORY Many greatest legends of Slovenian climbing have left their mark in this crag, starting with Tadej Slabe with routes in Tower and Krnica, followed by Uroš Perko, who added, then second hardest route in Slovenia, Country house, to his countless combinations in Pr’ Tekci. The route was repeated by Matej Sova and Luka Zazvonil.

 

BOULDERING You can do lots of bouldering in VIpavska Bela! First, you have endless combinations at Pr’Tekci and some routes Pod travnikom, which can be climbed with crashpads. Then there is sector Nad vodo, where apart from two routes you have many boulder problems on the right, although landings can be a problem. Practically the whole riverbed is littered with interesting problems. Especially interesting is the big boulder in the riverbed of Belca, to which you get from a path at the end of Stolp sector, where you soon turn left and down the slope, which brings you behind the boulder. Because of difficult terrain some routes here have bolts and you can climb many more on top rope.

A – PR TEKCI

Otrok oslade

8a

10 m

 

Težki časi za

superheroje COM

8b+

11 m

 

Otrok direkt

8a+

10 m

 

Superheroji v akciji

8c

12 m

 

Cerko

8b

10 m

*

Več kot spijemo, boljši smo… COM

8b+

11 m

 

Hči naslade

With limitations the route is 8b.

8a      

10 m

*

Hit poletja COM

7c

12 m

 

Dinozavra

7b

13 m

 

Hari Krišna

7a

13 m

 

Poltrona ekspres

6b+

13 m

*

Opičje norčije

6b+

13 m

*

Konzerva

7a

12 m

 

Butn’ glava

6a+

10 m

 

Teta Rozi

4c

10 m

 

B – STREHA

Pingo !!!

6b

18 m

 

???

P

18 m

 

???

P

18 m

 

???

P

8 m

 

???

P

9 m

 

Kapnik

6a+

10 m

 

Brez imena

6a+

10 m

 

Bimbo

6b

10 m

 

Bon jour

7a+

10 m

 

Artemisia

7b

8 m

 

???

P

8 m

 

Brez imena 2

4b

9 m

 

Brez imena 3

5a

9 m

 

C – STOLP

Pelargonija

7c+

20 m

 

Maša narave

7c

20 m

*

Maša sprave

8a

20 m

 

Čaj ob petih

8a+

21 m

*

Zoran COM

8b

21 m

 

Fikus

7c+

21 m

*

Pitabula

8a

17 m

 

Obnašaj se športno

7b+

17 m

 

Zbogom Pepca

6a

14 m

 

Hatchback

6c

14 m

 

Bonsai

6a+

9 m

 

Drži ritem punca (Ritem bejbi)

7a+

15 m

*

Maui

7b

15 m

*

Egoist

7a

14 m

*

Črne čipke

7c+

14 m

 

Možganski mrk

7b

14 m

 

Vrnitev odpisanih

8a

14 m

 

Razvalina življenja

7b+

12 m

 

Dom za obešanje

6a

18 m

 

Živel AFŽ

6c+

18 m

 

40 mučencev

6b+

16 m

 

Lahka

4b

13 m

 

Poševna

2

20 m

 

Jerry

3

25 m

 

Tom

3

25 m

 

 

D – POD TRAVNIKOM

Mini

6a

9 m

 

Sivo-zeleno nezaupanje

7c

9 m

 

Pitbull COM

8a

9 m

 

Gliste

8b+

9 m

 

Glista direkt

8c

9 m

 

Japonska buba

P

9 m

 

Sun Ra

7c

9 m

 

Ljubljanski proces

6c+

9 m

 

Sado mazo

7a+

15 m

 

Merlin

6a

15 m

*

Džuli Šviga

7b

15 m

 

Rdeča zloba

6c+

15 m

 

Šimi

6a

15 m

 

Salama

5a

15 m

*

Vipavski bolniki

4c

13 m

 

Mortadela

5c

15 m

*

Vestalka

6b+

15 m

 

Taras Bulba

6b+

15 m

 

Gargamel

7b

15 m

 

Azrael

6c

15 m

 

Ariel

6b

15 m

 

Eol

5c

15 m

 

Sancho Pansa

7a

16 m

 

Rosinand

8a

16 m

 

Don Kihot

7a+

16 m

 

Hik

6a

15 m

 

Eks

6b

15 m

 

Koma

5b

13 m

*

Jashi Churo

6a+

13 m

 

Matiček

6a

13 m

*

Urko direkt

6a

13 m

 

Urko

5c

13 m

 

Zavesa

5b

10 m

 

Ribica

5b

10 m

 

Rak

5c

10 m

 

Bolha

5b

10 m

 

Muca

4b

10 m

 

Šičk

4b

10 m

 

Mata Hari

6c

12 m

 

Babson Task

7a

12 m

 

OK Koral

5c

12 m

 

Seneka

5b

10 m

 

Cicero

5c

10 m

 

Kilgore Trout NO BOLT

6b

11 m

 

Točno opoldne

6c+

11 m

 

Janša

6b

11 m

 

Tasič

7b+

11 m

 

Sekta direkt

6b

11 m

 

Sekta

5c

11 m

 

Milojka

5c

11 m

 

Mars

6a+

11 m

 

Jupiter

6a+

11 m

 

Saturn

6a+

11 m

*

Zajeda

5a

13 m

*

Platka

6a

13 m

 

Borštner

6b+

13 m

 

Lobotomija

6c+

14 m

 

Lokomotion

7a+

16 m

 

Bremza

7a

16 m

 

Po razu

5a

11 m

 

Pekel

4c

10 m

 

Veseljaška

5b

10 m

 

Navihanka

5c

10 m

*

Spartak

5b

10 m

 

Zajeda norcev

5b

12 m

 

Šesti čut

6a

12 m

 

Dilema

6b+

12 m

 

Deimos

6b

12 m

 

Fobos

6a

12 m

*

Solidarnost

6c+

13 m

 

Perestrojka

7b+

13 m

 

Poluks

6b+

13 m

 

Kastor

6a+

13 m

 

Petka

5b

11 m

 

Travca

4c

10 m

 

Predzadnja

4b

10 m

 

Zadnja

4a

10 m

 

E – NAD VODO

Hulk Hogan !!!

8a

10 m

 

Vlade Divac !!!

P

10 m

 

F – VRANJA STENA

Zadnji konvoj !!!

6a

17 m

 

Sladko življenje !!!

6c+

17 m

 

Nora leta !!!

6a+

11 m

 

G – KRNICA

Aktinidija

6b+

35 m

 

Country house

8c+

25 m

*

Utrip srca

7b+

15 m

 

???

P

25 m

 

Dead moon !!!

8b+

30 m

 

??? !!! NO BOLT

P

17 m

 

Enigma

7c+

15 m

 

Urška, hči pijana

7c+

13 m

*

200 more miles !!!

8b

13 m

 

???

P

13 m

 

???

P

? m

 

???

P

? m

 

Povodni mož

8b+

16 m

*

???

P

? m

 

???

P

? m