VIPAVSKA BELA
Vipavska Bela is one of the most popular crags in Slovenia, albeit it’s less frequented by foreign visitors. Many climbers do their first steps in the rock or climb their first 8b, with everything in between. The nice canyon of Bela river is climbable almost all year round and although the routes tend to be shorter, there are lots of them, so regardless of your level, you will not exhaust the potential of the crag too soon.
The easiest way to Vipavska Bela leads via Vipava, where you drive through the city and look for the right turn for Vrhpolje. Drive through Vrhpolje and stick right at the church. At the end of the village the road goes uphill on two small hairpin bends, after which is a potential emergency parking. A bit further you come to a sharp turn left with an auto repair shop beside the road. Here, a dirt road leads down straight to the sector A. But driving and parking here is forbidden, so drive about 100 meters further and park without disturbing the traffic beside the road close to restaurant Theodosius and return back on foot. If you continue on the main road through the woods, you will see a clearing before the right turn, where you can park for sector B and reach it via a path downhill. Even further on the road there is a big parking beside the meadow. From here you can go straight down on steep stairs, which get you between sectors C and D, or go around on the side of the meadow to the end of sector D. From here you can go to a left path beside the river to get to sectors E-G. From the main parking the road continues on hairpin bends uphill for an alternative approach via Logatec and Col, or Ajdovščina.
WAY TO THE CRAG Path to sectors A-D is super nice and easy. You may have to put some effort into getting to sectors F and G and it may involve crossing the water or jumping across the riverbed.
There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.
BEST SEASON Although Country house was climbed in harsh winter conditions, the winter is too cold and too damp. Best seasons are spring and autumn, when the wall dries, while you can also find shade in summer, especially in the afternoon. For hard routes you will still need a bit lower temperatures though.
SUN & SHADE The exposition is mostly SE, which means that the walls are in the shade in the afternoon. Sector C has some shade before that and some is provided by trees in lower parts.
RAIN Rain is a problem, since walls take some time to dry. That goes especially for sectors A, E, F and G. But it’s also true that during rain you can climb in sectors A and G, and to some extent in sector C as well.
STYLE & ROUTES Sector A is quite overhanging, with good holds and athletic climbing for strong bicepses. Even the 6’s here are very beautiful. Sectors C and D are more vertical with occasional small roof, where you may often find interesting crux on small, sharp holds. Especially sector C has long, technical endurance routes, worth your visit. Sector D can be more of a gamble, regarding the beauty of routes and you will be surprised by some of the grades. The last sector, Krnica, is a challenge for the best climbers- small crimps, sharp tufas, length and overhang – what more could you want?
GEAR & SAFETY Grey limestone is solid and karsty and may break very rarely. On the other hand, some of the older routes are chipped, polished and sometimes both. The crag was mostly re-equipped with glue-in bolts and good anchors with biners, though you may find some old gear in between. But not all routes are bolted ideally, so you should still be careful. The routes are not too long and you will need a bit more quickdraws only in sectors C and G.
KIDS & COMFORT The approach is short and very comfortable. If you are scared of steep stairs, you can also go around them on the meadow. There is lots of space under the wall for everyone. This is a perfect family crag. The exceptions being sectors E, F and G, which may even be hard to get to (across the water and along it), but there is a nice plateau with a small pool, waiting for you under the sector G.
BEGINNERS Sector D is your ideal playground. Many beautiful and easy routes one after another, nice approach and good equipment. There are even some of the easiest routes in Slovenia here, for a first visit of natural crag. 5/5
ADVANCED Advanced climbers can climb a bit everywhere. Sector A has a couple of beauties, then there is the great sector C, while the bouldering chacarter of routes in sector D can be fun as well. 4/5
THE BEST Sector A is your destination for power and power endurance, and sector C for long and vertical endurance routes. Go to sector G for some classics like Country house and Povodni mož. 4/5
HISTORY Many greatest legends of Slovenian climbing have left their mark in this crag, starting with Tadej Slabe with routes in Tower and Krnica, followed by Uroš Perko, who added, then second hardest route in Slovenia, Country house, to his countless combinations in Pr’ Tekci. The route was repeated by Matej Sova and Luka Zazvonil.
BOULDERING You can do lots of bouldering in VIpavska Bela! First, you have endless combinations at Pr’Tekci and some routes Pod travnikom, which can be climbed with crashpads. Then there is sector Nad vodo, where apart from two routes you have many boulder problems on the right, although landings can be a problem. Practically the whole riverbed is littered with interesting problems. Especially interesting is the big boulder in the riverbed of Belca, to which you get from a path at the end of Stolp sector, where you soon turn left and down the slope, which brings you behind the boulder. Because of difficult terrain some routes here have bolts and you can climb many more on top rope.
A – PR TEKCI |
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Otrok oslade |
8a |
10 m |
|
Težki časi za superheroje COM |
8b+ |
11 m |
|
Otrok direkt |
8a+ |
10 m |
|
Superheroji v akciji |
8c |
12 m |
|
Cerko |
8b |
10 m |
* |
Več kot spijemo, boljši smo… COM |
8b+ |
11 m |
|
Hči naslade With limitations the route is 8b. |
8a |
10 m |
* |
Hit poletja COM |
7c |
12 m |
|
Dinozavra |
7b |
13 m |
|
Hari Krišna |
7a |
13 m |
|
Poltrona ekspres |
6b+ |
13 m |
* |
Opičje norčije |
6b+ |
13 m |
* |
Konzerva |
7a |
12 m |
|
Butn’ glava |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Teta Rozi |
4c |
10 m |
|
B – STREHA |
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Pingo !!! |
6b |
18 m |
|
??? |
P |
18 m |
|
??? |
P |
18 m |
|
??? |
P |
8 m |
|
??? |
P |
9 m |
|
Kapnik |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Brez imena |
6a+ |
10 m |
|
Bimbo |
6b |
10 m |
|
Bon jour |
7a+ |
10 m |
|
Artemisia |
7b |
8 m |
|
??? |
P |
8 m |
|
Brez imena 2 |
4b |
9 m |
|
Brez imena 3 |
5a |
9 m |
|
C – STOLP |
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Pelargonija |
7c+ |
20 m |
|
Maša narave |
7c |
20 m |
* |
Maša sprave |
8a |
20 m |
|
Čaj ob petih |
8a+ |
21 m |
* |
Zoran COM |
8b |
21 m |
|
Fikus |
7c+ |
21 m |
* |
Pitabula |
8a |
17 m |
|
Obnašaj se športno |
7b+ |
17 m |
|
Zbogom Pepca |
6a |
14 m |
|
Hatchback |
6c |
14 m |
|
Bonsai |
6a+ |
9 m |
|
Drži ritem punca (Ritem bejbi) |
7a+ |
15 m |
* |
Maui |
7b |
15 m |
* |
Egoist |
7a |
14 m |
* |
Črne čipke |
7c+ |
14 m |
|
Možganski mrk |
7b |
14 m |
|
Vrnitev odpisanih |
8a |
14 m |
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Razvalina življenja |
7b+ |
12 m |
|
Dom za obešanje |
6a |
18 m |
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Živel AFŽ |
6c+ |
18 m |
|
40 mučencev |
6b+ |
16 m |
|
Lahka |
4b |
13 m |
|
Poševna |
2 |
20 m |
|
Jerry |
3 |
25 m |
|
Tom |
3 |
25 m |
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D – POD TRAVNIKOM |
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Mini |
6a |
9 m |
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Sivo-zeleno nezaupanje |
7c |
9 m |
|
Pitbull COM |
8a |
9 m |
|
Gliste |
8b+ |
9 m |
|
Glista direkt |
8c |
9 m |
|
Japonska buba |
P |
9 m |
|
Sun Ra |
7c |
9 m |
|
Ljubljanski proces |
6c+ |
9 m |
|
Sado mazo |
7a+ |
15 m |
|
Merlin |
6a |
15 m |
* |
Džuli Šviga |
7b |
15 m |
|
Rdeča zloba |
6c+ |
15 m |
|
Šimi |
6a |
15 m |
|
Salama |
5a |
15 m |
* |
Vipavski bolniki |
4c |
13 m |
|
Mortadela |
5c |
15 m |
* |
Vestalka |
6b+ |
15 m |
|
Taras Bulba |
6b+ |
15 m |
|
Gargamel |
7b |
15 m |
|
Azrael |
6c |
15 m |
|
Ariel |
6b |
15 m |
|
Eol |
5c |
15 m |
|
Sancho Pansa |
7a |
16 m |
|
Rosinand |
8a |
16 m |
|
Don Kihot |
7a+ |
16 m |
|
Hik |
6a |
15 m |
|
Eks |
6b |
15 m |
|
Koma |
5b |
13 m |
* |
Jashi Churo |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Matiček |
6a |
13 m |
* |
Urko direkt |
6a |
13 m |
|
Urko |
5c |
13 m |
|
Zavesa |
5b |
10 m |
|
Ribica |
5b |
10 m |
|
Rak |
5c |
10 m |
|
Bolha |
5b |
10 m |
|
Muca |
4b |
10 m |
|
Šičk |
4b |
10 m |
|
Mata Hari |
6c |
12 m |
|
Babson Task |
7a |
12 m |
|
OK Koral |
5c |
12 m |
|
Seneka |
5b |
10 m |
|
Cicero |
5c |
10 m |
|
Kilgore Trout NO BOLT |
6b |
11 m |
|
Točno opoldne |
6c+ |
11 m |
|
Janša |
6b |
11 m |
|
Tasič |
7b+ |
11 m |
|
Sekta direkt |
6b |
11 m |
|
Sekta |
5c |
11 m |
|
Milojka |
5c |
11 m |
|
Mars |
6a+ |
11 m |
|
Jupiter |
6a+ |
11 m |
|
Saturn |
6a+ |
11 m |
* |
Zajeda |
5a |
13 m |
* |
Platka |
6a |
13 m |
|
Borštner |
6b+ |
13 m |
|
Lobotomija |
6c+ |
14 m |
|
Lokomotion |
7a+ |
16 m |
|
Bremza |
7a |
16 m |
|
Po razu |
5a |
11 m |
|
Pekel |
4c |
10 m |
|
Veseljaška |
5b |
10 m |
|
Navihanka |
5c |
10 m |
* |
Spartak |
5b |
10 m |
|
Zajeda norcev |
5b |
12 m |
|
Šesti čut |
6a |
12 m |
|
Dilema |
6b+ |
12 m |
|
Deimos |
6b |
12 m |
|
Fobos |
6a |
12 m |
* |
Solidarnost |
6c+ |
13 m |
|
Perestrojka |
7b+ |
13 m |
|
Poluks |
6b+ |
13 m |
|
Kastor |
6a+ |
13 m |
|
Petka |
5b |
11 m |
|
Travca |
4c |
10 m |
|
Predzadnja |
4b |
10 m |
|
Zadnja |
4a |
10 m |
|
E – NAD VODO |
|||
Hulk Hogan !!! |
8a |
10 m |
|
Vlade Divac !!! |
P |
10 m |
|
F – VRANJA STENA |
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Zadnji konvoj !!! |
6a |
17 m |
|
Sladko življenje !!! |
6c+ |
17 m |
|
Nora leta !!! |
6a+ |
11 m |
|
G – KRNICA |
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Aktinidija |
6b+ |
35 m |
|
Country house |
8c+ |
25 m |
* |
Utrip srca |
7b+ |
15 m |
|
??? |
P |
25 m |
|
Dead moon !!! |
8b+ |
30 m |
|
??? !!! NO BOLT |
P |
17 m |
|
Enigma |
7c+ |
15 m |
|
Urška, hči pijana |
7c+ |
13 m |
* |
200 more miles !!! |
8b |
13 m |
|
??? |
P |
13 m |
|
??? |
P |
? m |
|
??? |
P |
? m |
|
Povodni mož |
8b+ |
16 m |
* |
??? |
P |
? m |
|
??? |
P |
? m |
|