VITOVLJE

Vitovlje is an important bouldering spot for Slovenia, especially historically (as one of the first), as well as having high quality rock, lots of problems and large number of the hardest lines. It redeems itself for a bit longer approach with a stunning location in a magical forest and a selection of various problems for everyone… although fingers used to crimping will surely be most useful.

Šempas in Vipava valley is easily accessed from the highway by two exits. From here go to a scattered village Vitovlje and aim for its northern end on the edge of plateau. Slowly climb the road up following the signs Trajnice. A little before the road ends turn right uphill to a gravel road – watch for holes in the road. On a small split stick to the right and soon park on the side without obstructing the road. Then go on foot uphill on the forrest road for about 20 minutes (though you can drive on it with a SUV). On a crossroad go right for the church of Marija Sveta. At the next split go left, following the signs for Čaven/Krnica. This will bring you to the first boulders. From there on, look at the detailed map of individual blocks.

 

WAY TO THE CRAG Way to the main sector will warm you up nicely, but it’s not too demanding. The far blocks take longer to reach, but the path there is not too hard (but you might get lost in the woods sometimes).

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Vitovlje

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Vitovlje 45.941394, 13.761318

There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.

BEST SEASON Late autumn and spring. And of course nice winter days, if the rock is dry. It might be a bit colder, but the friction is perfect.

SUN & SHADE The shade is provided by forest and different expositions of boulders. Summer can be nice, until you climb the hardest problems, where some friction might be necessary.

RAIN Some blocks (especially Hueco) can be climbed in rain. But many of them take a long time to dry.

STYLE & ROUTES The rock is very good and existing problems don’t crumble any more, while you should be careful at the new ones. You can find all types of problems, from slabs to overhangs. Mostly they are crimpy or interesting aretes, but there are also traverses, slopers, highballs, compression and jumps.

GEAR & SAFETY Almost everywhere you can put up good landings, watch only for extreme problems like Dynozaver and highballs.

KIDS & COMFORT The comfort is top notch. Idyllic forest has patches of grass and shade with benches in between. Kids can run around the forest and even find some mini boulders just for them.

BEGINNERS There are some easy lines, but this is not a boulder place for beginners. 2/5

ADVANCED Great lines of all styles and difficulty will for sure excite you. 5/5

THE BEST  There are many problems, but they are quite specific and usually crimpy. 3/5

HISTORY Vitovlje is one of the first bouldering areas in Slovenia, being discovered around 1998, when Jure Piršič climbed the problem Krnica Čaven. Vitovlje were always popular among Slovenian boulderers and practically all the best ones were here often. The most of the hard lines were climbed by the great Urh Čehovin, who supposedly did a FA of a new hard line every time he came here. Later (many even today unrepeated) hard lines were put up by Gregor Bratina, Gregor Šeliga, Jernej Kruder and especially the local strongboy Boštjan Weingerl. Although Vitovlje, in terms of popularity and visitors, have their waves of crowdedness and solitude, new and interesting problems are created and new blocks are cleaned even these days.

KAPELCA, JC, SLOPER

Kapelca circuit

sit | topout

5B

 

Kapelca traverse

sit | topout

5B

 

Face of Jesus

stand | topout

5C

*

Noname 1

stand | topout

5A

 

Noname 2

sit | topout

6B

*

Noname 3

sit | topout

6B

 

Noname 4

sit | topout

6B

 

Noname 5

sit | topout

4A

 

J’s bolder

sit | topout

5B

 

Prečka

sit | topout

5B

 

Sloper arete

sit | topout

6A

 

Sloper

sit | topout

6B

*

Noname 6

sit | topout

6C

 

Groteska

stand | topout

6A

 

ČAVEN KRNICA, BABY JESUS, BRUCE LEE

Varianta Sv. Lucije

stand | topout

6A

 

Krnica Čaven

stand | topout

6B

*

Raz Sit

sit | topout

6A

 

Raz

stand | topout

5C

 

Baby Jesus high!

sit | topout

5B

 

Bruce Lee arete

stand | topout

5C

*

Shaolin traverse

sit | topout

7A

 

Bruce Lee

sit | topout

6A

*

Bruce Lee traverse

sit | topout

6C

*

Noname 7

sit | topout

6B

*

FLOWER WALL, ALIEN FACE, JAJCE

Sultan

sit | topout

6B

 

Noname 8

sit | topout

5B

 

Raz

stand | topout

7A

 

Turbo svizec

sit | topout

7A+

 

Noname 9

sit | topout

P

 

Dynozaver dyno!

stand | topout

8A+

 

Rože zla

stand | topout

7C+

*

South Park high

stand | topout

6C

 

South Park low

stand | topout

7B

 

Flower direct

stand | topout

7C+

 

Flower in the sky

stand | topout

6C+

*

Sharma traverse high!

stand | topout

6A

 

Mini raz

sit | topout

4C

 

One move

sit | topout

6B

 

Fat alien

sit | topout

8A+

 

Anorexic alien

stand | topout

7C+

*

Paid in full

stand | topout

7A+

 

Noname 10

stand | topout

7A+

 

Die hard top rope

stand | topout

7B

 

Skinny Ninja

stand | topout

7B

 

Shadow boxing

sit | topout

7B

 

Scarface

sit | topout

7A

 

Fuckface

sit | topout

6B

 

Jajce

sit | topout

7B

 

Kosova prečka

sit | topout

6A

 

HUECO WALL, ZION TRAIN, ROCKY

M6

sit | edge

7B+

 

M3

sit | edge

7A

 

M16

sit | edge

8A+

 

Mazohist

sit | edge

8B

 

M13

sit | edge

7C+

*

Hueco wall traverse

sit | edge

7A+

*

Microne

sit | edge

8A+

 

Hueco warm up

sit | edge

6B

 

Messerschmit

sit | edge

7B

 

El paso

sit | edge

7A

 

Stripbars of Hueco

sit | edge

7C

 

Bobby 6 killer

sit | edge

7B

 

Poka

sit | topout

6A

 

Green mirror high

sit | topout

6C

 

Zion train

sit | topout

6A

*

Noname 11

sit | topout

5C

 

Noname 12

sit | topout

5B

 

Noname 13

sit | topout

5B

 

Zion train

sit | topout

6A

*

Rocky 1

sit | topout

6A

 

Rocky 2

sit | topout

6C

 

Rambo

sit | topout

7A+

 

ZOB, FUTURE, LUŠČINKOVEC, ŽAGA, CRAZY HORSE, GOLD RUSH, BY THE WAY, PROJECT

Noname 14

sit | topout

6B

 

Zob

sit | topout

5B

 

Škratov palček

sit | topout

7C

 

Astro disco

sit | edge

7B

*

Full power

sit | edge

7C+

 

Luščinkovec

sit | topout

6C

*

Lesen sadež

sit | topout

7B

 

Žaga

sit | topout

5A

*

Noname 15

sit | topout

6B

 

General Custer

sit | topout

6B

*

General Lee

sit | topout

6C

*

Selekcija

stand | topout

8A

 

Crazy horse

jump | topout

7B

*

Horse power

stand | topout

7C

*

Indijanska poč

stand | topout

6A

 

After the gold rush

sit | topout

7A+

 

By the way

sit | edge

6A+

*

Noname 16 high

stand | topout

P

 

Noname 17 high

stand | topout

P

 

Kozmonavt high

stand | topout

7A

 

MEDVED, KRVOSES

Objemi medveda

sit | topout

7A

 

Bush doctor

sit | topout

7A+

 

Devil’s eyes

sit | topout

7C

 

Pandemonium

sit | topout

P

 

Dežela krvosesa

sit | topout

7B

 

Krvoses

sit | topout

6C+