VITOVLJE

Vitovlje is an important bouldering spot for Slovenia, especially historically (as one of the first), as well as having high quality rock, lots of problems and large number of the hardest lines. It redeems itself for a bit longer approach with a stunning location in a magical forest and a selection of various problems for everyone… although fingers used to crimping will surely be most useful.
Šempas in Vipava valley is easily accessed from the highway by two exits. From here go to a scattered village Vitovlje and aim for its northern end on the edge of plateau. Slowly climb the road up following the signs Trajnice. A little before the road ends turn right uphill to a gravel road – watch for holes in the road. On a small split stick to the right and soon park on the side without obstructing the road. Then go on foot uphill on the forrest road for about 20 minutes (though you can drive on it with a SUV). On a crossroad go right for the church of Marija Sveta. At the next split go left, following the signs for Čaven/Krnica. This will bring you to the first boulders. From there on, look at the detailed map of individual blocks.
WAY TO THE CRAG Way to the main sector will warm you up nicely, but it’s not too demanding. The far blocks take longer to reach, but the path there is not too hard (but you might get lost in the woods sometimes).

There are lots of sleeping options in Vipava valley and around Nova Gorica and Solkan. Climber oriented camp is in Vipava and it’s called KAMP TURA. There are many other camps, apartments, hostels and restaurants. We like pizzeria ŽOGICA near Solkan or pizzeria GRAD near Ozeljan.
BEST SEASON Late autumn and spring. And of course nice winter days, if the rock is dry. It might be a bit colder, but the friction is perfect.
SUN & SHADE The shade is provided by forest and different expositions of boulders. Summer can be nice, until you climb the hardest problems, where some friction might be necessary.
RAIN Some blocks (especially Hueco) can be climbed in rain. But many of them take a long time to dry.
STYLE & ROUTES The rock is very good and existing problems don’t crumble any more, while you should be careful at the new ones. You can find all types of problems, from slabs to overhangs. Mostly they are crimpy or interesting aretes, but there are also traverses, slopers, highballs, compression and jumps.
GEAR & SAFETY Almost everywhere you can put up good landings, watch only for extreme problems like Dynozaver and highballs.
KIDS & COMFORT The comfort is top notch. Idyllic forest has patches of grass and shade with benches in between. Kids can run around the forest and even find some mini boulders just for them.
BEGINNERS There are some easy lines, but this is not a boulder place for beginners. 2/5
ADVANCED Great lines of all styles and difficulty will for sure excite you. 5/5
THE BEST There are many problems, but they are quite specific and usually crimpy. 3/5
HISTORY Vitovlje is one of the first bouldering areas in Slovenia, being discovered around 1998, when Jure Piršič climbed the problem Krnica Čaven. Vitovlje were always popular among Slovenian boulderers and practically all the best ones were here often. The most of the hard lines were climbed by the great Urh Čehovin, who supposedly did a FA of a new hard line every time he came here. Later (many even today unrepeated) hard lines were put up by Gregor Bratina, Gregor Šeliga, Jernej Kruder and especially the local strongboy Boštjan Weingerl. Although Vitovlje, in terms of popularity and visitors, have their waves of crowdedness and solitude, new and interesting problems are created and new blocks are cleaned even these days.
KAPELCA, JC, SLOPER |
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Kapelca circuit |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Kapelca traverse |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Face of Jesus |
stand | topout |
5C |
* |
Noname 1 |
stand | topout |
5A |
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Noname 2 |
sit | topout |
6B |
* |
Noname 3 |
sit | topout |
6B |
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Noname 4 |
sit | topout |
6B |
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Noname 5 |
sit | topout |
4A |
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J’s bolder |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Prečka |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Sloper arete |
sit | topout |
6A |
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Sloper |
sit | topout |
6B |
* |
Noname 6 |
sit | topout |
6C |
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Groteska |
stand | topout |
6A |
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ČAVEN KRNICA, BABY JESUS, BRUCE LEE |
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Varianta Sv. Lucije |
stand | topout |
6A |
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Krnica Čaven |
stand | topout |
6B |
* |
Raz Sit |
sit | topout |
6A |
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Raz |
stand | topout |
5C |
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Baby Jesus high! |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Bruce Lee arete |
stand | topout |
5C |
* |
Shaolin traverse |
sit | topout |
7A |
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Bruce Lee |
sit | topout |
6A |
* |
Bruce Lee traverse |
sit | topout |
6C |
* |
Noname 7 |
sit | topout |
6B |
* |
FLOWER WALL, ALIEN FACE, JAJCE |
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Sultan |
sit | topout |
6B |
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Noname 8 |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Raz |
stand | topout |
7A |
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Turbo svizec |
sit | topout |
7A+ |
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Noname 9 |
sit | topout |
P |
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Dynozaver dyno! |
stand | topout |
8A+ |
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Rože zla |
stand | topout |
7C+ |
* |
South Park high |
stand | topout |
6C |
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South Park low |
stand | topout |
7B |
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Flower direct |
stand | topout |
7C+ |
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Flower in the sky |
stand | topout |
6C+ |
* |
Sharma traverse high! |
stand | topout |
6A |
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Mini raz |
sit | topout |
4C |
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One move |
sit | topout |
6B |
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Fat alien |
sit | topout |
8A+ |
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Anorexic alien |
stand | topout |
7C+ |
* |
Paid in full |
stand | topout |
7A+ |
|
Noname 10 |
stand | topout |
7A+ |
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Die hard top rope |
stand | topout |
7B |
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Skinny Ninja |
stand | topout |
7B |
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Shadow boxing |
sit | topout |
7B |
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Scarface |
sit | topout |
7A |
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Fuckface |
sit | topout |
6B |
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Jajce |
sit | topout |
7B |
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Kosova prečka |
sit | topout |
6A |
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HUECO WALL, ZION TRAIN, ROCKY |
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M6 |
sit | edge |
7B+ |
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M3 |
sit | edge |
7A |
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M16 |
sit | edge |
8A+ |
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Mazohist |
sit | edge |
8B |
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M13 |
sit | edge |
7C+ |
* |
Hueco wall traverse |
sit | edge |
7A+ |
* |
Microne |
sit | edge |
8A+ |
|
Hueco warm up |
sit | edge |
6B |
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Messerschmit |
sit | edge |
7B |
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El paso |
sit | edge |
7A |
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Stripbars of Hueco |
sit | edge |
7C |
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Bobby 6 killer |
sit | edge |
7B |
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Poka |
sit | topout |
6A |
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Green mirror high |
sit | topout |
6C |
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Zion train |
sit | topout |
6A |
* |
Noname 11 |
sit | topout |
5C |
|
Noname 12 |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Noname 13 |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Zion train |
sit | topout |
6A |
* |
Rocky 1 |
sit | topout |
6A |
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Rocky 2 |
sit | topout |
6C |
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Rambo |
sit | topout |
7A+ |
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ZOB, FUTURE, LUŠČINKOVEC, ŽAGA, CRAZY HORSE, GOLD RUSH, BY THE WAY, PROJECT |
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Noname 14 |
sit | topout |
6B |
|
Zob |
sit | topout |
5B |
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Škratov palček |
sit | topout |
7C |
|
Astro disco |
sit | edge |
7B |
* |
Full power |
sit | edge |
7C+ |
|
Luščinkovec |
sit | topout |
6C |
* |
Lesen sadež |
sit | topout |
7B |
|
Žaga |
sit | topout |
5A |
* |
Noname 15 |
sit | topout |
6B |
|
General Custer |
sit | topout |
6B |
* |
General Lee |
sit | topout |
6C |
* |
Selekcija |
stand | topout |
8A |
|
Crazy horse |
jump | topout |
7B |
* |
Horse power |
stand | topout |
7C |
* |
Indijanska poč |
stand | topout |
6A |
|
After the gold rush |
sit | topout |
7A+ |
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By the way |
sit | edge |
6A+ |
* |
Noname 16 high |
stand | topout |
P |
|
Noname 17 high |
stand | topout |
P |
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Kozmonavt high |
stand | topout |
7A |
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MEDVED, KRVOSES |
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Objemi medveda |
sit | topout |
7A |
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Bush doctor |
sit | topout |
7A+ |
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Devil’s eyes |
sit | topout |
7C |
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Pandemonium |
sit | topout |
P |
|
Dežela krvosesa |
sit | topout |
7B |
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Krvoses |
sit | topout |
6C+ |
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